Symi Town Contents When to visit Symi Number of days on Symi Ferries to and from Symi Bus & Taxi Service on Symi Water Taxi Services on Symi Accommodation on Symi Symi Town Nanou Beach Agios Nikolaos Beach Agia Marina Agios Georgios Dysalona Beach Pedi Marathounda Beach Emborio Beach Horio/Ano Symi Link to my other blogs on Greece 1. When to visit Symi One of the nicest things about Symi are the water taxi services to 6 beaches. All but one of these beaches have tavernas which provide sun beds and umbrellas. The water taxis only go to the beaches when the tavernas are operating. When we went to Symi in late May 2026 we learnt that these beach tavernas had begun opening from mid May. The taverna at Nanou only opened on 26 May, which was our first full day on Symi. The taverna at Marathounda opened on 29 May. Therefore if you want to use the water taxis on Symi don't visit until late May. It seems that the beach tavernas begin closing from early October and most of them will be closed for the season by mid October. There is little shade on Symi and hiking would be best in April, May, late September and October. On June 5th 2024 Dr. Michael Mosley died from heat exhaustion when doing a short hike on Symi. There was a heatwave and the temperature was around 40 degrees centigrade. Most of Symi's visitors come from Rhodes on day boat trips. They arrive at Symi Town from 10.30 and usually leave by 16.00. As a result is Symi Town is very busy between 11.00 and 15.30 and best avoided at this time. We weren't affected by the boat tours from Rhodes as we were visiting other parts of Symi island during the day. It was very pleasant wandering around Symi Town in the early morning and from the late afternoon. 2. Number of Days on Symi There are not any archaeological sites or historic buildings to see on Symi apart from the Panormitis Monastery. There are also very few roads to drive on. Therefore most visitors spend their days on Symi's beaches, which can be reached by water taxi, and the evenings in Symi Town. We stayed 4 nights on Symi and had 4 full days on the island as our ferry departed Symi in the evening. We found that to be sufficient although we could have spent another day on Symi if we had taken a boat cruise around the island. The amount of time required for Symi depends to a large extent on how much time you want to spend lying on a beach. It may only be warm enough for the beach from late May to late September. Symi is a very nice island and I recommend staying at least 3 nights. Longer can be spent if you like relaxing on the beaches or take a boat cruise around the island. 3. Ferries to and from Symi In peak season there are ferries almost every hour between Rhodes Town and Symi and the sailing time is 1 hour 20 minutes. There are daily ferries to the touristy island of Kos. We took a ferry from Symi to Nisyros and in late May there were only 2 ferries a week. In peak season there are ferries to Nisyros about 5 days a week. The port for large ferries is about a 15 minute walk east of Symi Town. Our ferry from Rhodes to Symi 4. Bus & Taxi Service on Symi There are 2 bus services on Symi: An hourly bus between Symi Town and Pedi, via Chorio. The one way fare is EUR 2.50. A thrice daily bus between Symi Town and Panormitis Monastery. This bus service isn't convenient for visiting the monastery as you would have to stay there at least 3 hours. The bus stand is on the eastern side of the harbour past the Taverna O Harris restaurant. The taxi stand is next to the Taverna O Harris restaurant. Bus stand in Gialos, Symi Town Bus details - Symi town to Horio & Pedi Bus details - Symi town to Horio & Pedi Bus details - Symi Town to Panormiti Monastery Taxi Stand in Gialos, Symi Town 5. Water Taxi Services on Symi It is not necessary to hire a car or scooter on Symi as most places can be accessed by the excellent water taxi service and bus service. The water taxis are a fun way of exploring Symi and go to Agia Marina, Agios Nikolaos, Agios Georgios Dysalona, Nanou, Marathounda and Nimbirio. The water taxis operate from mid May to mid October but only go to beaches that have an open taverna. The tavernas at Nanou and Marathounda open in late May whereas the tavernas at the other beaches open in mid May. Opening dates depend on the weather and number of tourists on Symi. The main water taxi operator from Gialos (Symi Town’s harbour) is Loukas-Irine and they have a good reputation. In the off peak season they are the only water taxi in operation except for Paulos-Kostas which services Nimbirio. In the peak season there are other water taxis. In the off peak season the Loukas-Irene water taxis depart Gialos at 10.00 and 11.00 and mainly return at 14.00 and 16.00. The Nimbirio water taxis also depart Gialos at the same times but return at 16.00 and 17.00. In peak season there are additional departures. The return fares for the water taxis in 2026 were: Gialos to Nanou EUR 16 Gialos to Marathounda EUR 18 Gialos to Nimbirio EUR 10 There are tavernas at all the beaches except Agios Georgios Dysalona. The food was generally good and free wi fi was provided. Most of the tavernas charged for sun beds and umbrellas but they were free at Nimbirio and Marathounda if you had a meal there. There is also a water taxi service from Pedi to Agios Nikolaos and Agia Marina. The cost of a return ticket to Agios Nikolaos is EUR 8. Poseidon Excursions and Maria Traditional Boat offer daily cruises around Symi island. Both the Poseidon and Maria receive excellent reviews. Their ticket booths are located at Gialos next to the taxi boats' ticket booths. Tickets cost EUR 70 for the Poseidon and EUR 60 for the Maria The Poseidon and Maria stop at several beaches not serviced by water taxis and provide a barbeque lunch. They leave Gialos at 10.30 and return at 17.00. Map of Symi showing the water taxi routes Water taxi ticket booths in Gialos Water taxi to Nimborio A water taxi to Symi's eastern beaches 6. Accommodation on Symi We rented the 3 bedroom Symiland Villa through Airbnb for EUR 125 a night. It was in a quiet location yet only a 5 minute walk to the harbour. I highly recommend it. Our villa was managed by Symi Holidays which is the largest accommodation rental company on Symi. They manage 74 properties and have an office in Symi Town. Symi Holidays is a very well run company and it's worth looking for accommodation on their website. Suitcases can be stored at their office during the day. Symiland Villa in Symi Town Symiland Villa in Symi Town Symiland Villa in Symi Town 7. Symi Town Symi Town is best avoided between 11.00 and 15.30 as it will be heaving with day visitors from Rhodes. It's an attractive small town and a great place to wander around when there are no day visitors. The esplanade along the waterfront is the nicest part of Symi Town to walk along. It's possible to continue all the way along the coast to Nimborio. It's a 20 minute walk along the harbour to Nos beach which is the closest beach to Symi Town. We didn't swim there as the beaches served by the water taxis are better. Symi Town Symi Town Symi Town The clock tower in Symi Town Nos beach near Symi Town Nos Beach near Symi Town 8. Nanou Beach Nanou beach opened for the 2026 season on 26th May which was our first full day on Symi. We took the 30 minute taxi boat ride to Nanou that day and there were only a few other visitors. There isn't a road to Nanou and the taverna is the only building. There was a EUR 15 charge for 2 sun beds and an umbrella. They were nicely spaced out and we liked the beach. The sea dropped down fairly steeply. There were no goats on the beach but this may because it was only the first day of the season. The taverna served reasonable food and the owners were friendly. There was free wifi at the taverna and it could be accessed from most of the sun beds. Nanou beach on Symi Nanou beach on Symi 9. Agios Nikolaos Beach The taverna at Agios Nikolaos beach opened for the 2026 season in mid May. There is only a taverna at the beach and there is no road access. Agios Nikolaos beach can be reached by taxi boat from Symi Town, taxi boat from Pedi and by walking. We took the taxi boat from Pedi, after visiting Chorio, and it cost EUR 8 for the return trip. The taxi boat makes the return trip from Agios Nikolaos every hour. I couldn't walk from Pedi to Agios Nikolaos beach because of a knee injury. From the boat it looked a very pleasant coastal hike and it only takes 20 minutes. There isn't any shade and in the peak summer months it would be very hot. There weren't many people at Agios Nikolaos in late May but it probably becomes busy in peak season as there are many sun beds. The padded sun beds on the front rows cost EUR 30 a pair and the less luxurious ones further back cost EUR 15 a pair. We used the cheaper sun beds and they were fine. We liked this beach and the owners of the taverna were very welcoming. Souvlaki and chips cost EUR 15 and a large Greek salad cost EUR 10. Agios Nikolaos Beach on Symi Agios Nikolaos Beach on Symi Agios Nikolaos Beach on Symi 10. Agia Marina Agia Marina can be reached by taxi boat from Symi Town, taxi boat from Pedi and by walking. It is a 40 minute walk from Pedi and it is on this route that Michael Mosely died from heat exhaustion on 5th June 2024. There is no shade along this route and temperatures reached 40 degrees centigrade on the day he died. We passed Agia Marina several times on the water taxis but didn't spend any time there. It was busier than the other beaches and had a concrete waterfront. It didn't appeal to us. Agia Marina Beach on Symi 11. Agios Georgios Dysalona Beach We passed Agios Georgios Dysalona beach when taking the water taxis to Nanou and Marathounda. It is in a very scenic location and the water is nice for swimming. We didn't spend time on this beach as there isn't a taverna or any facilities and the bay is frequented by many private yachts and boat tours. Goats visit this beach and can be aggressive if you have food. Agios Georgios Dysalona Beach Agios Georgios Dysalona Beach 12. Pedi There didn't seem to be any taxi boats from Symi town to Pedi and most people use the hourly bus service. There is a taxi boat service from Pedi to the beaches at Agia Marina and Agios Nikolaos. Pedi is a straggling small village with nothing much to see. There's a hotel, couple of tavernas, a small shop and a pleasant beach The Katsaras taverna at Pedi was open for meals in late May 2026 but sun beds and umbrellas hadn't yet been set up. Two sun beds and an umbrella cost between EUR 20 and EUR 30 depending on the row. The cost includes a fruit platter and a bottle of water. Pedi Pedi's beach Pedi 13. Marathounda Beach The taverna at Marathounda beach opened for the 2026 summer season on May 29th and it was the last beach taverna on Symi to open. We were leaving Symi in the evening of May 29th and spent the day at Marathounda before taking the ferry to Nisyros. I thought that Marathounda would be a deserted beach like Nanou. However, there is a road to Marathounda and several other buildings, including a second taverna that hadn't yet opened for the season. After the taxi boat dropped us off a few other people came to the beach by road. If you have a car or scooter you could combine visiting the nearby Panormitis monastery with Marathounda beach. We ate at the Mapaooynta taverna and the food and service was good. This taverna receives excellent reviews. There are goats on the beach but they only bothered people who were eating on the beach as the taverna is fenced off. The taverna provides free sunbeds and umbrellas. The beach was stoney and it's best to use water shoes for swimming. The stones below the water line were a bit slippery but it wasn't a problem. On the first day of the season the taxi boat left Symi Town at 11.00 and returned from Marathounda at 16.45. The taxi boat operates more frequently in peak season and there is an earlier departure at 10.00 as well. It costs EUR 18 for the return trip. Marathounda Beach on Symi Marathounda Beach on Symi Marathounda Beach on Symi Goat on Marathounda Beach 14. Nimborio Emporios beach at Nimborio is a 10 minute water taxi ride away from Symi Town. The water taxi costs EUR 10 return and in the off season leaves Symi at 10.00 and 11.00 and returns at 16.00 and 17.00. Emporios beach is only a 40 minute walk from Symi and we walked back rather than waiting for the taxi boat. There is a very pleasant paved coastal path between Nimborio and Symi Town over easy terrain. It's also possible to do a circular walk by following the little trafficked inland road. Locals recommend this circular walk which is shown on the map below. There are 2 tavernas at Emporios beach. Taverna Metapontis is on the right when approaching by boat. It has a sizeable area for sun beds and there is shade from trees. The sun beds and umbrellas are free if you eat at taverna Metapontis. We had lunch there and didn't enjoy the food. However, the ownership of the taverna has recently changed and it is now receiving excellent reviews. The other taverna is the Amalthea Restaurant which also provides accommodation. Their beach area is much smaller and consists of sun beds located along the little used road. The sun beds may be free when eating or drinking at the restaurant. In May 2026 the Amalthea Restaurant was more popular than Taverna Metapontis and it receives excellent reviews. Emporios beach isn't as nice as the beaches at Nanou, Marathounda and Ayios Nikolaos but it makes a pleasant outing. Red line indicates the circular walking route between Symi Town & Nimborio Water taxi to Nimborio Emporios beach and tavernas Emporios beach by the paved coastal path Emporios beach Paved coastal path between Emporios beach & Symi Town View from the coastal path between Emporios and Symi Town View from the coastal path between Emporios and Symi Town 15. Chorio/Ano Symi Chorio is the upper section of Symi Town and is also known as Ano Symi and Horio. It is connected to Symi's harbour (Gialos) by the Kali Strata steps and the Gialos to Pedi road. Unfortunately I couldn't climb up the Kali Strata's 358 steps due to a knee injury and we took the hourly bus instead. Reviews of the Kali Strata indicate that it takes about 25 minutes to climb up the steep steps to the popular Kali Strata restaurant. The steps wind around historic houses on the way up. From the Kali Strata restaurant it's an additional 10 minute walk up to the area of the Symi Citadel. There is more than 1 bus stop at Chorio. The first stop is near the historic windmills but they can only be viewed from the outside. The second bus stop is below the hill that Symi Citadel is situated on. The route to Symi Citadel isn't well signposted but its location is shown on Google maps. There is very little remaining of the citadel and a church has been built beside it. It's possible to do a short circular walk around the church and citadel. There are excellent views of Symi Town and Chorio on the rear side of the church. From Chorio it's a 30 minute downhill walk along the road to Pedi. It wouldn't be very pleasant in the heat and we took the bus instead. I found Gialos far more interesting as Chorio doesn't have a town centre. The windmills look nice from the exterior but can't be entered. There is a very good view of Symi Town from the citadel but not much else to warrant visiting it. I might have been more impressed if I had been able to climb the Kali Strata stairs to Chorio. Bus stand for the Gialos to Chorio bus route View of Chorio's windmills from Symi Town Chorio's windmills The citadel at Chorio Fantastic view of Symi Town from Chorio's citadel View of Chorio from the citadel

Stefanos Crater Nisyros is a very pleasant and unspoilt Greek island with attractive open scenery and views to neighbouring islands. It's definitely worth spending a couple of nights on Nisyros to appreciate the island. Contents Ferries to Nisyros Length of stay on Nisyros Getting around Nisyros How to avoid tour groups on Nisyros Accommodation & restaurants on Nisyros The volcanic craters Nikia Village & Prophet Elias Church Paleokastro - Nisyros' Ancient Acropolis Mandraki Monastery of Panagia Spiliani Pali and the beaches of Lies & Pachia Ammos Village of Emporios My other Blogs on Greece 1. Ferries to Nisyros We wanted to go by ferry from Symi to Nisyros at the end of May 2026. It was difficult to arrange as details of sailings were posted fairly late. There were only 2 Blue Star ferries a week sailing from Symi to Nisyros and I had to change our accommodation dates so we could take the ferry. These Blue Star ferries are large and stop at many islands on the way to Athens. We weren't happy that a few days beforehand they changed the sailing time. As a result we only reached Nisyros at midnight. From Nisyros.we wanted to go to the island of Kos. Initially I couldn't find a way of getting from Nisyros to Kos as in the offseason here are very few ferry lines that serve this route. Then I discovered that several boats take day trippers from Kardamena to Nisyros. Kardamena is a 40 minute drive from Kos Town. These day boats are mainly operated by SailAway Kos and Enetikon Travel. One way tickets can be purchased through Ferry Hopper for about USD 10. I was concerned that SailAway wouldn't allow suitcases but they did. During peak season a ferry seems to sail most days between Kos Town and Nisyros and there are even more day trip boats between Kardamena and Nisyros. The easiest way to reach Nisyros is from Kos island. 2. Length of Stay on Nisyros Nisyros is a very pleasant and unspoilt Greek island if you avoid the tour groups that come from Kos for day tours. It's possible to avoid the tour groups if you have a full day on Nisyros which means spending 2 nights on Nisyros. Some visitors like Nisyros so much that they stay longer. We spent 2 nights on Nisyros and as our ferry left in the early afternoon we had one and a half days to explore the island. We could have seen all the sights in one full day but the additional half day meant it was a more relaxing visit. 3. Getting around Nisyros There is a limited bus service but it would be difficult to see Nisyros by bus. It's better to rent a car and as Nysiros is a very small island a car is only required for one day. Car rental is much cheaper than on other Greek islands and we paid EUR 25 for the day. The main car rental company is Manos but I rented a car with Diakomichalis as they have an online reservation system. Both Manos and Diakomichalis are located at Mandraki's port. Diakomichalis delivered the car to my hotel in the morning and I returned the car to their office in the evening. There is only one petrol station on Nisyros and it's located near Loutra which is a few kilometres east of Mandraki. We only used about EUR 15 of fuel. Map of Nisyros Map of Mandraki 4.How to avoid Day Trippers from Kos Most of the day trips from Kos leave Kardamena at 09.30 and return from Nisyros at 15.30. SailAway also offer a day trip that departs Kardamena at 12.00 and returns at 18.30. This later day trip doesn't run on Wednesdays and the weekend. The day boats take one hour to reach Nisyros and most passengers then take a tour for the day. Tours usually follow the same schedule but on Nisyros they sensibly have different schedules. Some tours immediately walk into Mandraki and by 11.00 Mandraki is busy with tour groups. The other tours start by going to the Volcanic Crater and the village of Nikia. It's therefore best to visit Mandraki before 11.00 or after 15.00. On days when SailAway offer a later boat trip there may still be day trippers in Mandraki up to 18.00. The Ancient Acropolis near Mandraki can be visited any time because tour groups don't go there. It's essential to visit Nikia village when there aren't any tour groups as Nikia is small and has one narrow street. Therefore it's best to visit Nikia before 11.30 or at the end of the day. Nikia should be free of tour groups by 14.30 if there aren't any later sailings from Kos island. The main volcanic crater is large and can absorb many visitors. However, the path down to the crater is a bit narrow and can become congested. There shouldn't be any tour groups at the crater before 11.15. When there aren't any later day boats from Kos the tour groups will have left the volcanic crater by 14.45. On days when there are later day boats there may be tour groups at the crater up to 17.45. The volcanic craters aren't fenced off so they can be visited any time. When we were there the ticket office closed at 15.00, just after the last tour group had departed. If the ticket office is closed you can enter without paying the EUR 5 entrance fee! 5. Accommodation, Restaurants & Shops on Nisyros The Porfyris Hotel is the best hotel on Nysiros and it's located in the centre of Mandraki. There is limited car parking by the hotel and it's a 10 minute walk from the port. The Porfyris hotel is owned and run by a father and his very helpful son. I paid a bit extra for a sea view room to ensure we had a room on the top floor. Our room had a balcony and fridge. We really enjoyed our stay even though the room was compact and had a small shower. There is a nice pool area and after checking out we were allowed to use the pool until our ferry departed at 15.30. There are many restaurants in Mandraki that cater for the tour groups and as a result the standard isn't the best. We had dinner at the Captain's House, which is only 100 metres away from the Porfyris Hotel. It's a small restaurant serving traditional Greek food and the lady serving us was very helpful in recommending dishes. The Captain's House isn't frequented by tour groups and it receives excellent reviews. We were surprised by how many shops there were in Mandraki. When we arrived at midnight from Symi one small supermarket was still open! Porfyris Hotel in Mandraki Captain's House restaurant in Mandraki 6. The Volcanic Craters The volcanic craters are the main attraction of Nisyros and they are a 25 minute drive from Mandraki. The craters are very impressive and definitely worth visiting. In summer time it's best to visit either in the early morning or from late afternoon as the main crater can be very hot. When we visited blowing dust was a problem and we were glad to be wearing sun glasses. Visitors without sun glasses were struggling. The ticket office is only manned when the tour groups from Kos are visiting Nisyros and the entry fee is EUR 5. The volcanic craters can still be visited when the ticket office is closed. In fact it's best to do so as it means there are no tour groups and it's free! However, the cafe and the toilets would probably be closed. The main crater is known as Stefanos and most groups only visit this crater. There is a path down the crater's steep wall to the floor of the crater. It's possible to walk around the crater's floor except for the areas that are roped off due to the floor's thin crust. The roped off area in the centre of the crater floor has fumaroles emitting boiling mud and steam. The second crater is called Polyvotis and is a 10 minute walk up a small hill behind the cafe. Most visitors don't walk up to see it. Polyvotis is a double crater and is worth seeing although it's not as impressive as Stefanos. You can't walk down to the crater floor of Polyvotis. We spent 1 hour 15 minutes at the craters. Tour groups spend 45 minutes at the Stefanos crater and most of their reviews indicate that was sufficient for them. The volcanic craters on Nisyros The Stefanos crater The Stefanos crater Inside the Stefanos crater Cordoned off area of blowholes in the Stefanos crater Path to the Polyvotis crater Large Polyvotis crater Small Polyvotis crater 7. Nikia Village & Prophet Elias Church There is a free car park at the entrance to Nikia village. The main street runs from the car park to Porta square and then on to a viewpoint with distant views of the volcanic crater. Nikia is a pretty village but it's very small and the main thoroughfare is narrow at times. The plaza is pleasant and has 2 tavernas. I think the plaza would be busy at lunch time and hot in summer. Having dinner in the evening would be much nicer. The Volcanological Museum is located by Nikia's car park. The entrance fee is EUR 4 and the museum is open from 09.00 to 19.00, except on Sundays when it closes at 14.00. We didn't visit the museum but it receives good reviews. A visit of the small museum takes about 30 minutes. From Nikia's car park there are 350 steps leading up to the beautiful blue and white Church of Prophet Elias . An easier option is to drive up the paved road! The turn off for the church isn't well sign posted and it's about 1 kilometre before Nikia village The Prophet Elias church was built in 2010 but looks traditional. There are good views towards the volcanic crater. I think Nikia could easily be swamped by tour groups so it's essential to avoid them. If a tour bus is at Nikia when you arrive it's better to visit the Prophet Elias church first. I don't think that tour buses drive up to the church. Porta Square at Nikia The main street at Nikia View of Prophet Elias Church from Nikia Prophet Elias church near Nikia View of the volcanic crater from the Prophet Elias Church View of Nikia from the Prophet Elias Church 8. Paleokastro - Nysiros' Ancient Acropolis How to access the Paleokastro The Paleokastro can be reached by car or on foot. It's a 15 minute uphill walk along a rocky path from the monastery in Mandraki. The road to the Paleokastro is tarred and there is plenty of space to park. Entrance to the Paleokastra is free and the site is never closed. We had the impressive acropolis to ourselves as very few people visit it. There are several information boards at the site. It's possible to climb stairs up to 2 sections of walls and there are good paths along the external walls. Brief History of the Paleokastro The Paleokastro was constructed between the 6th and 4th centuries BC and is an excellent example of classical and Hellenistic fortifications. The Paleokastro's massive walls and towers were constructed from enormous black volcanic slabs which were precisely fitted together. Some slabs are up to 3.5 meters in width and weigh between 3 to 4 tons. The Paleokastro had massive stairs leading to the walkways atop the walls. The walkways provided strategic vantage points for defenders and contributed to the fortress’s formidable defensive system. Gates were designed to allow defenders to fire upon attackers while remaining protected and there is one surviving gate. During the Byzantine era the ancient walls were heavily relied upon to defend the Nisyros' inhabitants from pirate raids. Restoration of the Paleokastro Between 2003 and 2006 extensive restoration was carried out at the Paleokastro. Many of the fallen stone blocks were carefully reinserted to their original positions. The acropolis has six well preserved towers on the southern side and a substantial 230 metre long wall. Two additional towers and 80 meters of wall remain on the eastern side. The walls were constructed to encircle the city within. Toilets and a ticket office were built due the restoration. They are now in disuse as very few people visit the Paleokastro as the road isn't suitable for tour buses. The surviving gate at the Paleokastro Walls of the Paleokastro Walls of the Paleokastro Interior of the Paleokastro View from the walls of the Paleokastro View of Mandraki from the Paleokastro 9. Mandraki We really liked Mandraki as it hasn't been spoiled by tourism and it's a traditional small Greek town. It's best to just wander around as apart from the monastery and the Paleokastro there are no real sights to see. View of Mandraki from the monastery Coastal part of Mandraki Ilikiomeni Square Street in Mandraki Alley in Mandraki 10. Monastery of Panagia Spiliani The monastery was built in 1600 and its small chapel was built in a cave two centuries earlier. It has been the religious centre of Nisyros since the 18th century and is famous for a miraculous icon that's located in the small chapel. The monastery is open from 10.30 to 15.00 except on Saturdays. An entrance fee of EUR 2 is payable and it includes access to a museum. We didn't visit the museum. It's a steep climb up 135 steps to the very small chapel which I don't think is worth visiting. The main feature of the chapel is a wooden altarpiece from 1725. There is nothing else to see at the monastery and I don't think it's worth visiting. I am not sure if tour groups visit the monastery due to the steep climb but if they did visit it would be from 11.15 to 15.00. A tour group would make the chapel unbearably congested. If you visit the monastery it's best to go as soon as it opens or just before it closes. Monastery of Panagia Spiliani Entrance to the Monastery of Panagia Spiliani Chapel of the Monastery of Panagia Spiliani 11. Pali and the Beaches of Lies & Pachia Ammos Pali is a 10 minute drive east of Mandraki and there is parking along the seafront road. There isn't much to see in the straggling village. Many yachts moor at Pali. About 1 kilometre east of Pali are the imposing derelict buildings of the Pantelidis Thermal Baths. It's worthwhile stopping and looking around these interesting buildings. It was believed that the water at a nearby spring had therapeutic powers and this water was used by the Pantelidis Thermal Baths.They were built in three phases from 1895 to 1910 by doctor Hippocrates Pantelidis. The doctor died in 1928 and the baths continued to operate until the early 1930's. The luxurious facility had up to 300 beds. The baths were abandoned after the 1930's and the buildings fell into disrepair. In the 1980's the doctor's grandson made an unsuccessful effort to restore them. After the baths the tarred road runs southward along the coast. It's a 10 minute drive to Lies beach which has reddish volcanic sand. The road ends at Lies beach and from there it's a 15 minute walk to Pachia Ammos beach. The path requires caution as it's along a crumbling hillside. Pachia Ammos Beach is a larger version of Lies beach. It has a wide stretch of coarse, reddish volcanic sand and can be used for free camping. Pali Church at Pali Pantelidis Thermal Baths Lies beach Path to Pachia Ammos Beach Path to Pachia Ammos Beach Pachia Ammos Beach 12. Village of Emporios There is a free parking lot and toilets at the entrance to the lower section of Emporios. There isn't much to see in the lower part. It's possible to walk up to the mainly ruined upper section of Emporios. There is also a paved road to the top but there are not many parking spaces. There is not much to see at the top of Emporios either. I therefore don't recommend visiting at Emporios. Lower Emporios View of Upper Emporios Upper Emporios View from Upper Emporios

Contents Ephesus opening hours and ticket prices How to avoid the crowds at Ephesus Brief history of Ephesus How to reach Ephesus Facilities at Ephesus What to see at Ephesus Ephesus Museum Basilica of St. John in Selcuk Mosque of Isa Bey House of Virgin Mary Temple of Artemis My other blogs on Turkey 1. Ephesus' Opening Hours and Ticket Prices In Summer (April to October) Ephesus is open from 08.00 to 19.00 except for the Terrace Houses which close at 18.30. In winter Ephesus appears to be open from 08.30 to 17.00. From 3rd June to 1st October 2026 Ephesus stays open for night visits until 23.00 on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. After 18.45 entry is only through the lower gate and the Terrace Houses remain closed after 18.30. Ephesus isn't open for night visits during concert and event periods. In 2026 the last such event is meant to be on July 15th. However, I would be very wary about relying on that. It would be very disappointing to miss seeing Ephesus because of an additional event. Tickets for the Ephesus archaeological site, excluding the Terrace Houses, cost EUR 40. If you want to visit the Terrace Houses the cost increases to EUR 52. Payment is in Turkish lira and credit cards are accepted. I recommend paying the extra EUR 12 to see the Terrace Houses. I don't see the point of scrimping when you have come all the way here. Ticket Prices for Ephesus 2. How to avoid the Crowds at Ephesus Ephesus is unfortunately an extremely popular site and can be very crowded in summer. Curetes Street and Marble Road form the main thoroughfare through Ephesus and they are jammed with tourists at peak times. The Celsus Library becomes incredibly busy with everyone taking photos. Massive cruise ships docked at nearby Kusadasi are the worse culprit. The day before we visited Ephesus there were 3 cruise ships with almost 10,000 passengers docked at Kusadasi. Over half those passengers would have visited Ephesus and mostly in the morning! Crowds completely spoil the experience but they can be avoided with careful planning. We visited Ephesus in mid June 2026 and had the site to ourselves for 1.5 hours. It only became a bit busy at the end of our 3.5 hour visit. The first solitary 1.5 hours at Ephesus was a fantastic experience. At the end of our visit I was intrigued to hear 2 tour leaders inform their groups how lucky they were to be at Ephesus when there weren't any visitors from cruise ships. My advice for avoiding the crowds is: Avoid the Cruise Ships at Kusadasi Before booking your flights and accommodation find a day when there will be no cruise ships at Kusadasi for your visit to Ephesus. There are several websites that provide free information about cruise ships docked at ports and I use cruisetimetables.com. This website states the number of passengers and arrival/departure times for each ship. It's crucial to look at cruise ship schedules as the majority of Ephesus' visitors are from a cruise ship. If you can't find a suitable day without any cruise ships at least select a day with fewer passengers and later arrival times. Most cruise ships arrive at Kusadasi between 07.00 and 09.00. I have never been on a cruise but we unfortunately our ferry from Samos arrived at Kusadasi when 3 cruise ships were docked there. It was absolute chaos at the port. I am not sure how long it would take passengers who arrive at Kusadasi at 07.00 to disembark and join a tour bus to reach Ephesus. I guess that the tour buses would start arriving at Ephesus from about 08.30. This would negatively impact your visit if you visited Ephesus at 08.00 as I recommend. Cruise ships docking at Kusadasi at 08.00, or later, shouldn't impact you if you visit Ephesus at 08.00. If you plan to visit in the late afternoon it's better if cruise ships are due to leave Kusadasi by 19.00. Visit when Ephesus opens at 08.00 Most travel blogs recommend that you arrive at Ephesus on the dot of 08.00 and they are right! I wasn't going to do this as most hotels in nearby Selcuk only serve breakfast from 08.00. However, our hotel (in Ephesus Hotel and Art Galery) kindly offered to provide a fabulous breakfast at 07.00. When we arrived at Ephesus shortly after 08.00 we were the only visitors there. We virtually had Ephesus to ourselves and it was an incredible experience walking down the deserted site. An early start also means that you avoid the heat of the day and Ephesus is an exposed site. Most hotels won't offer an early breakfast. If so it is better to buy something the night before and eat it in your hotel room. It isn't worth missing the best time of day at Ephesus for a hotel breakfast. Visit Ephesus after 15.30 If you can't visit Ephesus at 08.00 then it's better to visit after 15.30. Visitors from cruise ships will usually have returned to their vessels by then and most other tour groups will have completed their visits. It's also a bit cooler in the late afternoon. Visit Ephesus in the Evening & Night I considered visiting in an evening, when Ephesus was open until 23.00, but had some concerns about doing so. Firstly the Terrace Houses close at 18.30 and I wanted to see them. Secondly when we visited the Luxor Temple in Egypt at night it was very busy with tour groups and I was concerned Ephesus would be as well. Thirdly night viewings at Ephesus can be cancelled for events. All the comments I have seen on the internet indicate that Ephesus isn't busy at night. However, for some reason photos taken of the Celsus Library at night always show a lot of people! Ephesus at night is definitely not as quiet as at 08.00. I had considered visiting Ephesus both in the morning and at night as the illumination of the buildings provide a different perspective and they look magnificent lit up. The EUR 40 entry fee put me off from doing so! The Celsus Library at night Marble Road at night Arrive at Ephesus' Upper Entrance Most travel books and blogs recommend arriving at Ephesus' upper entrance and walking downhill to the lower entrance. Tour companies like doing this as it is less tiring for their customers. Coaches drop off their customers at the upper entrance and collect them at the lower entrance. Normally I do the opposite of what tour groups do! However, if you enter Ephesus at 08.00 it's better to start at the upper entrance as otherwise you will meet the tour groups on your way up from the lower entrance. It's better to have the masses following you when they will be at least 1 hour 30 minutes behind you. It's also a good idea to use the upper entrance if starting in the late afternoon to avoid any tour groups that have arrived later in the day. People usually recommend entering at the Upper Entrance because it's easier walking downhill. At the end of our visit we walked back up the site in the mid June heat and it wasn't a problem at all. If the site was busy with tour groups it would be hassle passing them. Visit the Celsus Library & Latrines before the Terrace Houses When entering from Ephesus' upper entrance you reach the Terrace Houses before the Celsus Library. The latrines are more or less opposite the Terrace Houses. It's better to visit the nearby Celsus Library and the Latrines before entering the Terrace House complex. It can take half an hour to properly see the Terrace Houses and if you visit the Celsus Library and the Latrines afterwards they will be busier. The Celsus Library is the most popular building at Ephesus and some visitors spend a lot of time posing for photos there. In contrast not too many visitors enter the Terrace Houses because of the extra cost. Don't Follow a Tour Group into the Terrace Houses As mentioned earlier it is worth paying the additional EUR 12 to visit the Terrace Houses. However, as they are enclosed by one huge protective building sound travels around the complex. The loud voice of a tour group leader could spoil the experience. When we were there most tour groups and other visitors didn't enter the Terrace Houses. If you are unlucky to arrive there at the same time as a tour group it's probably better to wait 15 minutes before entering. Avoid Weekends during the Offseason It's unlikely that many locals living in cities and towns like Kusadasi and Izmir would want to visit Ephesus during the peak summer months. They are far more likely to visit in the offseason on a Saturday or Sunday. Therefore during the off season try not to visit Ephesus at weekends. 3. Brief History of Ephesus The colossal Temple of Artemis was constructed at Ephesus in 550 BC. It was four times the size of the Parthenon in Athens and was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. In 356 BC Herostratus burnt the Temple of Artemis to the ground just to immortalise his name. When Alexander the Great conquered the region decades later he offered to fund the temple's rebuilding but the Ephesians politely declined and rebuilt it themselves. In 286 BC sediment from the Cayster River began choking the harbour and the population moved to a newly walled city two miles away. This is where the famous ruins of Ephesus now stand. Ephesus was absorbed into the Roman Republic in 133 BC. Its population expanded to roughly 250,000 people, making Ephesus the second-largest city in the Roman Empire after Rome. In the mid 1st century AD Ephesus became a hub for early Christianity. The Apostle Paul lived and preached here for nearly three years. It's believed that Apostle John wrote his Gospel here and brought Mary, the mother of Jesus, to live out her final years in the nearby hills. Ephesus' most iconic surviving monuments were constructed during the 1st and 2nd Centuries AD. The Library of Celsus holding over 12,000 scrolls was built and the Great Theatre was expanded to seat 25,000 spectators In 262 AD the Goths sacked the city and destroyed the Temple of Artemis. Ephesus partially recovered under Byzantine rule but repeated earthquakes shattered its marble infrastructure. Over the following centuries the Cayster River relentlessly deposited silt into Ephesus' harbour despite constant engineering efforts. The harbour was eventually transformed into a landlocked, malaria-ridden marsh. The remaining residents abandoned Ephesus in the 15th Century AD for the nearby fortified hill of Ayasuluk (modern Selçuk). By the time the Ottoman Empire absorbed the region, ancient Ephesus lay buried under mud and sand. Because Ephesus was abandoned rather than continuously built over like Rome or Istanbul, its ruins were exceptionally preserved under the sediment. Excavations at Ephesus started in the mid 19th century. It's one of the most complete ancient cities ever excavated. 4. How to reach Ephesus Map showing route to Ephesus' upper entrance Selcuk makes a good base and there are several good hotels. Ephesus is a 6 minute drive from Selcuk and a 30 minute drive from Kusadasi. It's possible to walk from Selcuk to Ephesus and it would take 40 minutes. Most people either take a taxi or drive. A taxi from Selcuk to Ephesus should cost around EUR 8 (TRY 400). A taxi back to Selcuk might cost more as it's a captive market. We were charged EUR16 (TRY 800) from the upper entrance. There was only 1 taxi there and he showed us a rate sheet. Our hotel owner said there were more taxis at the lower entrance and they should be cheaper. If you drive to Ephesus be aware that the route from Selcuk to Ephesus' upper and lower entrances is different. Enter "Ephesus Archaeological Site" in Google Maps for the upper entrance and "Ephese ticket office" for the lower entrance. There are car parks at both entrances and the cost is EUR 3 (TRY 150). If you drive to Ephesus you would either have to walk back to the entrance you parked at or take a taxi back to your car. It takes 6 minutes to drive between the entrances so the taxi fare would probably be the same as from Ephesus to Selcuk. 5. Facilities at Ephesus There are toilets at both of Ephesus' entrances but they can only be used before entering the site. There are also toilets at the Ephesus Experience Museum which is near the Selcuk Library The museum is included in the ticket price but I am not sure if you could use the toilets without seeing the boring show at the museum. There is a refreshment stall at Hadrian's Gate which is near the Celsus Library. There is also a cafe at the Ephesus Experience Museum for visitors who watch the show. Refreshment stall at Hadrian's Gate 6. What to see at Ephesus We spent 3.5 hours at Ephesus and would have stayed longer if the Theatre hadn't been closed for renovations. We could have spent half an hour less at Ephesus if we hadn't wasted our time at the Ephesus Experience Museum. The highlights of Ephesus are the Odeon, Temple of Hadrian, Terrace Houses, public latrines, Celsus Library and the Great Theatre. There are plenty of other interesting ancient structures to see. There are 2 site maps below to help navigation through Ephesus. There are also photos and information on the important buildings. The order that they shown in is from the Upper Entrance to the Lower Entrance. Simple Ephesus Site Map Detailed Ephesus Site Map The Odeon The Odeon of Ephesus (also known as the Bouleuterion) was built around 150 AD. It was designed to seat approximately 1,500 people. The structure functioned as both a covered concert hall and the council chamber. It hosted the 300 member aristocratic senate of Ephesus, who gathered to debate and decide on city affairs, taxation and public construction. Odeon at Ephesus Temple of Domitian The Domitian Temple was built in the 1st century AD and was dedicated to the Roman Emperor Domitian. Domitian was one of the most brutal Roman emperors and persecuted many Christians. The unpopular emperor was eventually killed by one of his servants. The citizens of Ephesus celebrated and erased Domitian’s name from inscriptions around the city. The Domitian Temple was destroyed after the 4th century AD when Christianity became the state religion. Temple of Domitian Curetes Street Curetes Street was one of the three main streets of Ephesus, connecting the Upper and Lower Agoras. It was named after the Curetes, a class of priests who played an important role in the religious life of Ephesus. The street was originally built during the Hellenistic period but was extensively renovated and adorned during the Roman era, particularly in the 1st and 2nd centuries AD. Curetes Street at Ephesus Temple of Hadrian This temple dedicated to the Emperor Hadrian is considered one of the best preserved and most beautiful structures on Curetes Street. It was constructed in the beginning of the 2nd century AD to celebrate Hadrian's visit. The temple was reconstructed in the 4th century AD by Theodosius in honour to his father. Hadrian's Temple The Public Latrines The public latrines at Ephesus were built in the 1st century AD. They are located just northeast of the junction of Marble and Curetes streets. They feature 48 keyhole shaped marble seats and had no partitions, serving as a communal social space. Public Latrines at Ephesus Library of Celsus The Library of Celsus takes its name from Julius Celsus Polemaenus. He was the Roman governor of Asia Minor in the 2nd century AD and was buried in a sarcophagus under the library. His son began construction of the library in 110 AD and the construction was finished by his descendants in 135 AD. The Library of Celsus was the third largest library in the Greco-Roman world, behind only those of Alexandria and Pergamum, and held around 12,000 scrolls. The library operated as a public space for the city and the main floor functioned as a reading room. The interior of the Celsus Library was destroyed by fire in 262 AD, which left the façade undamaged. By about 400 AD the library no longer functioned. The area in front of it was turned into a pool, which reflected the beautiful facade, and the whole structure had a purely decorative function. The facade of the Celsus Library was painstakingly reconstructed between 1970 and 1978 using fragments found during past excavations. The statues on the facade are replicas as the originals are in the Ephesus Museum in Vienna. Library of Celsus Gate of Mazaeus and Mithridates The Gate of Mazaeus and Mithridates is a monumental three-arched gate located to the right of the Library of Celsus. It served as an entrance to the Commercial Agora. It was built in 40 AD by two freed slaves to honour Emperor Augustus and his family. It's one of the best preserved structures at Ephesus. Tour groups tend to stand in the shade of this gate! Gate of Mazeus and Mithridates Terrace Houses The Terrace Houses of Ephesus were constructed between the 1st and 3rd centuries AD. This group of seven lavish residential villas were owned by wealthy citizens. They contain beautiful mosaics, frescoes and graffiti of gladiators, animals and other subjects. The villas had complex heating systems, indoor plumbing and private baths. This shows the technological prowess of Roman society and the luxury that rich citizens could afford under Roman rule. The complex enclosing the Terrace Houses has glass and steel walkways and a climate-controlled roof that protects fragile mosaics and frescoes from weathering. The staircases and entrance fee result in many people, including tour groups, not visiting the Terrace Houses. We took half an hour to view the Terrace Houses and were surprised that the few other visitors spent much less time there. The Terrace Houses can be viewed in the heat of the day as the roof provides shelter from the sun and the complex is climate controlled. Tickets can only be purchased at the entrances to Ephesus and not at the Terrace Houses. The Basilica at the Terrace Houses The Terrace Houses Complex The Terrace Houses at Ephesus Basilica Stoa at the Agora The Basilica Stoa at Ephesus was a massive 160 metre long two story building that bordered the northern side of the Upper Agora. During the Byzantine period, portions of the Stoa were converted into a church. The grand hall was eventually levelled by an earthquake in the 4th century and never rebuilt. Basilica Stoa at Ephesus Great Theatre The Great Theatre of Ephesus is one of the most magnificent and well preserved open air theatres of the ancient world. The original structure was built during the Hellenistic period, around the early 3rd century BC, by one of Alexander the Great's generals. The seating area (cavea) was integrated directly into the natural incline of the hillside. Ephesus became the capital of the Roman province of Asia and the theatre underwent massive expansions. Major reconstruction of the theatre began under Emperor Claudius (41–54 AD) and continued into the 2nd century AD. The seating area was enlarged to accommodate an estimated 25,000 spectators, which was roughly 10% of Ephesus' population at its peak. The theatre was a multi-functional venue used for plays, musical performances, religious festivals and political assemblies. During the Roman imperial era it also hosted gladiatorial combats and animal hunts. By the 4th century AD repeated earthquakes had caused significant damage to the theatre. Although repairs were made the theatre gradually lost its grandeur. By the 8th century AD the Byzantines incorporated the sturdy lower walls of the theatre into their defensive fortifications against Arab raids. Extensive renovations of the theatre began in April 2025 with the assistance of 2 huge cranes. The theatre has been closed since then. When we visited Ephesus in June 2026 it appeared that the theatre wouldn't reopen for some time. The theatre can be seen from the perimeter but it was disappointing not to have been able to enter it. The Great Theatre at Ephesus Ephesus Experience Museum There are three virtual reality rooms at the Ephesus Experience Museum and 6 minutes are spent in each room. Once the room's show is finished the doors to the next room open. You cannot exit until after the third room. The rooms are air conditioned but you have to stand the entire time, which is tiring after wandering around Ephesus for hours. We thought that it was a waste of time and it's a misnomer to call it a museum. Very little is learnt from the show and it's just 18 minutes of visual special effects and loud sound effects. The only positives were the air conditioning, clean toilets and cafe! Some people very strangely love the Ephesus Experience Museum whereas others dislike it. I have posted below a positive review and a negative review to help you decide. Positive Review of Ephesus Experience Museum "This modern, immersive museum is one of the most impressive additions to the Ephesus archaeological site. Located at the lower entrance of the site, the Ephesus Experience Museum uses cutting-edge technology, projection mapping, sound design, and narration to transport visitors back to ancient times. Rather than displaying only artefacts in glass cases, it brings the city’s people, buildings, and stories to life. As you walk through the dark, atmospheric corridors, you're surrounded by scenes of ancient markets, temples, and streets recreated with light and movement. There's even a dramatic retelling of the Apostle Paul's time in Ephesus, adding a deeply spiritual and historical layer for Christian visitors. This museum is included with your main site ticket, so it’s absolutely worth taking the time to visit. Even a short tour helps you visualise the ancient city and gives important historical context that enriches your Ephesus experience." Negative Review of Ephesus Experience Museum "A complete waste of time. There are three virtual reality rooms. The first two supposedly about different time periods in Ephesus, but the audio guide provides very little information. In the era of playing YouTube videos at 2x speed, this guide felt like 0.25x. The last room about the goddess Artemis is useless in terms of information and it’s the only one with an actual statue. You are stuck there for 18 minutes, since the doors are closed between the rooms until the exhibit is done, and you could learn the same information in 2 minutes online. I came here to see ancient ruins and instead of making more archeological discoveries they built a virtual reality room. Trash!" 7. Ephesus Museum in Selcuk The Ephesus museum is in Selcuk and not at the Ephesus archaeological site. It's open from 08.30 to 20.00 and entry costs EUR 10 payable in Turkish lira. We only needed 40 minutes to view the exhibits so it was expensive for the time spent. It is a nice museum with interesting exhibits but there's not a lot of information about Ephesus. The museum receives a lot of good reviews but I don't think it's worth visiting. Entrance Fees for the Ephesus Museum Ephesus Museum Gallery Ephesus Museum Gallery Exhibit at the Ephesus Museum 8. Basilica of St. John & Ayasuluk Fortress Opening Hours & Entrance Fee The Basilica of St. John is open from 08.00 to 19.00 and costs EUR 6 (payable in Turkish lira) to enter. The entry ticket gives access to the Ayasuluk Fortress which is open from 09.00 to 17.30 in summer. Google wrongly states that the fortress closes at 16.30. Brief History of the Basilica of St. John & Ayasuluk Fortress Saint John spent his last years in Ephesus. He died around 100 AD and was buried on Ayasoluk Hill. There was a commemorative plaque on his grave and in the 4th century AD it was encased in a chapel. In the 6th century AD the Byzantine Emperor Justinian ordered the construction of a huge Basilica on this site. The construction of the Basilica used stone from the nearby Temple of Artemis and it was completed in 565 AD. The Basilica of Saint John was an important goal for pilgrims as it was believed that the dust from the tomb of the Apostle possessed healing properties. Ephesus declined after the invasion by the Arabs in the years 654-655 and some of the population relocated to Ayasoluk Hill. A hilltop fortress was built above the Basilica of St. John and it was surrounded by thick walls. In 1304 the Seljuk Turks invaded the city. The Basilica of St. John was transformed into a mosque and pilgrims had to pay for access to the tomb of St. John. In 1402 the Mongol army invaded the area and the Basilica was destroyed. For over 600 years the ruins of the Basilica lay in oblivion and its stones used for building materials. How to get there The Basilica of St. John is a 10 minute uphill walk from Selcuk. The Ayasuluk fortress is accessed by walking through the Basilica. It's uphill again. When to Visit We visited Ephesus in the morning and after a rest we visited the Basilica of St. John at 16.30. This meant we didn't run into any tour groups and it wasn't during the hottest part of the day. The Basilica is open until 19.00 and an even later visit would result in cooler temperatures and less people. However, if you want to see the fortress it closes at 17.30. I personally wouldn't bother seeing the interior of the Ayasuluk Fortress as there is very little to see. What to see at the Basilica of St. John & Ayasuluk Fortress The Basilica of St. John is an evocative and beautiful ruin that's worth wandering around. There are a few information boards at the Basilica. The Ayasuluk Fortress has an impressive exterior which can be seen from the Basilica. There's very little to see inside except for a small mosque and a small covered cistern. It's possible to walk along the ramparts. We spent one hour wandering around the Basilica and Fortress. Basilica of St. John in Selcuk Basilica of St. John in Selcuk Opening hours for the Ayasuluk Fortress Ayasuluk Fortress in Selcuk Interior of Ayasuluk Fortress, Selcuk 9. Mosque of Isa Bey in Selcuk The Isa Bey Mosque is situated below the Ayasoluk Castle and the Basilica of St. John. It's one of the best examples of Anatolian mosque architecture. It was built in 1375 using stone and columns from the ruins at Ephesus and the Temple of Artemis. The mosque stood in ruins for many years but was restored in 1970 and reopened for prayer. The Isa Bey Mosque can be seen when visiting the Basilica of St. John and the Ayasoluk Fortress as it is nearby. The mosque has a very imposing exterior and is accessed through a very pleasant central courtyard. The courtyard is shaded by trees and has Ottoman gravestones resting against the walls. The interior of the Isa Bey Mosque isn't very special. Modest attire is required; head coverings for women and covered legs for everyone, with wraps available at the entrance. Mosque of Isa Bey in Selcuk Courtyard of Isa Bey Mosque, Selcuk 10. House of Virgin Mary We didn't visit the House of Virgin Mary as it isn't authentic and is a tourist trap. The following review of the House of Virgin Mary states what many other visitors have expressed: "Unless you are the most devout Catholic and appreciate locations with the loosest possible claim to fame, this is an absolute money grab and a waste of your time. The house that is supposedly where Mary lived is not an original, it's a rebuilt rock house, you wait in a line to walk through, the time spent walking through the tiny house is mere minutes, there is no stopping inside, no place to sit, you have to keep walking single file through and pictures are not allowed. The walk from the main parking lot is INCREDIBLY steep with no resting places, and is along a road with charter buses driving past you. Save your time and money for Ephesus." House of Virgin Mary at Selcuk 11. Temple of Artemis at Selcuk The Temple of Artemis is on the outskirts of Selcuk and not at Ephesus. We didn't visit it as all that is left of the Temple of Artemis is one column. A reviewer wrote: "This is without a doubt the most disappointing archaeological site in Turkey. Considered by those who saw it in ancient times to be better than the pyramids of Giza, better than Babylon and the Colossus of Rhodes we are now left with an arid swamp and a pieced together column. Extremely disappointing, worth stopping off to have a laugh about." Temple of Artemis at Selcuk 12. My other blogs on Turkey What to see at Pergamon & Bergama Metropolis Archaeological Site Visiting the Ancient City of Priene Visiting the Ancient City of Miletus Visiting the Magnesia Stadium

The Theatre at Metropolis The archaeological site at Metropolis makes a good stop when travelling northwards from Kusadasi, Selcuk or Ephesus to Pergamon or Izmir. It's only a 40 minute drive from Ephesus to Metropolis and then an additional 2 hour drive to Pergamon. It only takes an hour to visit Metropolis and the theatre, mosaics and bath complex are worth seeing. The site is still actively being excavated and additional areas will be open in future. Contents Brief History of Metropolis Getting to Metropolis Opening Hours, Entry Fees and Facilities What to see at Metropolis My other blogs on Turkey 1. Brief History of Metropolis The ancient city of Metropolis flourished under the Seleucid Empire (312 BC to 64 BC) and was part of the Kingdom of Pergamon. The grand theatre, stoa and temple dedicated to Ares were built during this period. Under Roman rule, between the 1st and 3rd centuries AD, Metropolis outgrew its hillside fortifications and expanded downhill onto the fertile plain. The city flourished with grid-planned streets, peristyle mansions and lavish public bathhouses. The city shrunk in the 3rd century AD following severe earthquakes and Gothic raids. It became an important Byzantine bishopric centre in the 6th century. In the 13th century a sturdy fortress was built across the ancient ruins to defend against regional instability. After coming under the rule of the Aydınoğulları Beylik, and later the Ottoman Empire, the hillside site was eventually abandoned. The residents moved to nearby Torbali. European travellers discovered the ruins in the 17th century and archaeological excavations have been uncovering the city since 1989. 2. Getting to Metropolis Metropolis is a 1 hour drive south of Izmir and a 40 minute drive north of Ephesus. When driving northwards to Metropolis enter "Metropolis Antik Kenti" in Google Maps for directions. We stopped off at Metropolis when driving from Selcuk to Pergamon and spent 1 hour there. Route from Ephesus to Pergamon via Metropolis 3. Opening Hours, Entry Fees and Facilities It appears that the site is open from 08.30 to 19.00 in summer. We visited in June 2026 and it was free. There will probably soon be an entrance fee as they have improved the infrastructure. There are good toilets, paths and steps, information boards, covered parking and a site office. They sell bottles of water there but little else. 4. What to see at Metropolis It took us one hour to visit Metropolis. The highlights are the theatre, 2 very good mosaics and an impressive bath complex. The gate to the upper area containing the acropolis, fortress and bouleuteion was closed as excavations were still taking place. Metropolis Site Plan The pathway around the archaeological site of Metropolis The Theatre at Miletus The theatre at Metropolis was built into the natural hillside during the Hellenistic period (323 BC to 30 BC) and seated 8,000 to 10,000 people. The Romans made improvements to the theatre which included adding a marble floor and enlarging the stage building. The theatre was fashioned from marble and consists of the orchestra, stage building and seating, with seats of honour in the front row. The seats of honour were reserved for clergy and emperors. They are very good examples of Hellenistic marble work and 2 of them are backed by reliefs of Zeus’s lightning beam and Ares' shield. The theatre hosted Metropolis' social, cultural and artistic activities but lost its function in the early 5th century AD. It was restored in 2001 and now has a reduced seating capacity of approximately 4,000 people. The marble slabs for the upper seats were used for other buildings after the 5th century AD. The theatre at the archeological site of Metropolis The Theatre at the Metropolis archaeological site Seat of honour at the theatre at Metropolis Base of an altar in honour of Augustus at Metropolis' theatre The Mosaic Hall The mosaic hall is the feast hall of a residence built in the 2nd century AD to the east of the Metropolis Theatre. It has some of the best examples of intricate floor mosaics found in Western Anatolia. The first panel is coloured with tragedy and comedy masks, fish, birds and flowers associated with theatre plays and performers. Mosaic at the "Mosaic Hall" of Metropolis The content of the second panel displays four portraits. They may symbolise the personified four seasons: Spring is dressed in a blue-grey dress and holds a flower branch with insects on it as a sign of spring. The winter figure is personified as a woman. Her head is covered with a mantle of leaves and branches of green grains embroidered in the background. A portrait in a red tunic personifies autumn. The image of summer hasn't survived. Mosaic at the "Mosaic Hall" of Metropolis Roman Baths & Palaestra The Roman Baths and Palaestra were built during the reign of Roman Emperor Antoninus Pius (138-161 AD) and featured marble halls, heated bath chambers and a wrestling school. Stepped pools are on the sides of the central hall. The building complex was approximately 6,000 square meters. It was converted into small workshops in the Middle Ages. One hall has an impressive Roman hypocaust heating systems. This system raised the building's floor with brick columns creating voids underneath. Hot air and smoke from a nearby furnace was circulated through these voids. Public toilets for 25 people were part of the complex and can be seen in the south east corner. The hypocaust central heating system at the bath complex at Metropolis The Bath - Gymnasium Complex at the Metropolis archaeological site The Bath - Gymnasium Complex at the Metropolis archaeological site Information Panel about the Bath - Gymnasium Complex at Metropolis Public Latrines in the South East corner of the Bath - Gymnasium Complex at Metropolis Public Latrines in the South East corner of the Bath - Gymnasium Complex at Metropolis Information Panel about the Public Latrines at Metropolis Section of the site closed for excavations 5. My other Blogs on Turkey Visiting Ephesus & Nearby Sights Visiting the Ancient City of Priene Visiting the Ancient City of Miletus Visiting the Magnesia Stadium What to see at Pergamon & Bergama

The Baths of Faustina at Miletus We took a morning ferry from the Greek island of Samos to Kusadasi in Turkey. It was chaotic at Kusadasi as 3 huge cruise ships were docked there with almost 10,000 passengers! This delayed us getting a taxi to the car rental office and meant we had a later start to our first day in Turkey than planned. We spent 9 days in Turkey and visited the ancient sites of Priene and Miletus on the day we arrived at Kusadasi. We could have also visited the Temple of Apollo at Didyma if we hadn't been delayed. We spent the night near Ephesus so we could visit it early the following morning. Miletus is an impressive ancient site with a stunning theatre and a remarkably well preserved bath complex. The ancient sites at Miletus, Priene, Didyma and Magnesia make an excellent full day trip with a rental car or taxi from Kusadasi and Ephesus. Contents Brief history of Miletus How to get to Miletus Best time to visit Miletus Opening hours and entry fees What to see at Miletus My other blogs on Turkey 1. Brief History of Miletus Miletus was settled as early as the 16th century BC and became a leading Greek city with 60 colonies. In the 6th century BC Miletus was conquered by the Persian Empire. In 499 BC Miletus led the Greek Ionian revolt against the Persians. The Persians crushed the rebellion and destroyed Miletus. Miletus was abandoned after the Persian invasion in 494 BC and eventually a Hellenistic city was developed. The city was rebuilt on a strict grid-system by the urban planner Hippodamus. Miletus was conquered by Alexander the Great in 334 BC. In 133 BC Miletus was integrated into the Roman Empire. In the 2nd century AD Miletus experienced a major period of monumental building, including the Baths of Faustina and the expansion of the theatre. The gradual silting of Miletus' harbour by the Maeander River severed it from the sea, leading to economic decline. The city shrank into a small Byzantine and Ottoman settlement before being abandoned after an earthquake in 1415. The first excavations in Miletus were conducted by a French archaeologist in 1873 and there were further excavations by German archaeologists between 1899 and 1931. 2. How to get to Miletus Miletus is a 1 hour drive from Kusadasi and a 1 hour 15 minute drive from Ephesus. We rented a car from Enterprise Car Rental in Kusadasi and found it easy to drive in Turkey despite it being the first time. There are several other car rental agencies in Kusadasi but Enterprise offered us the best deal for a one way rental to Istanbul. A taxi could also be hired to visit Miletus and the nearby archaeological sites of Priene and Didyma. A taxi would cost around EUR 100 for a full day trip from Kusadasi or Selcuk. There is no problem in locating Miletus as the impressive stadium can be seen from quite a distance. There is informal parking along the road in front of the shop at Miletus and a sign states that TRY 100 (EUR 2) is payable. We were lazy and parked there but I think parking just a few metres further on would be free. 3. Best time to visit Miletus Miletus is a large exposed archaeological site and it's best to avoid the very hottest months of July and August. June and September can also be hot. If it's very hot try to visit in the early morning or after 16.00. Miletus isn't a very popular archaeological site but tour groups do visit. We were dismayed when we arrived at 15.15 to see that 2 coaches had just arrived. The ticket seller informed us they were a group of elderly retired Turkish teachers and wouldn't spend long at Miletus. We therefore walked to the excellent Baths of Faustina, and then around the rest of the site, before viewing the theatre. By the time we reached the theatre the teachers had left and very few visitors were there. Most visitors only see the theatre so it's a good strategy to visit the theatre on arrival if there are few visitors but to wander around the rest of Miletus first if the theatre is busy. The ticket seller informed us that 15 coach loads of tourists had visited in the morning and they had come from the cruise ships docked at Kusadasi. He informed us that Miletus was busier in the morning. There are several free websites showing the number of cruise ships docked at ports worldwide. One of the best websites is Cruisetimetables.com as it shows the number of passengers and the arrival and departure times for each cruise ship. I always take into account when cruise ships are in port when planning our trips as my aim is to avoid them! We deliberately visited Miletus and Priene on our first day because of the cruise ships. I knew that there were no cruise ships the following day and that's when we visited the very popular site of Ephesus. Map showing the location of Miletus & other nearby ancient sites 4. Opening hours and entry fees for Miletus Tickets for the Miletus cost EUR 6 payable in Turkish lira. We paid a man at an outside table and received an official ticket. Unfortunately that meant I didn't see any posted opening hours. The official government site (muze.gov.tr) states that Miletus is open from 08.30 to 20.00 with the last entry at 18.30. I am not sure if this information is up to date as the site also states that the entry fee is EUR 3 when it's actually EUR 6. There is conflicting information on the internet with some websites stating the site closes at 17.00. Miletus certainly closes later than 17.00 in summer as we left at around 17.00 in June 2026 and Miletus was still open then. It appears that Miletus closes at 19.00 in summer. Even the seldom visited Magnesia archaeological site stays open till then. 5. What to see at Miletus Miletus Site Plan The Theatre and Baths of Faustina are the 2 most impressive structures at Miletus. Many visitors just view the theatre and don't bother walking the short distance to the impressive Baths of Faustina. That's a big mistake. We also enjoyed walking around the remainder of the site which is well signposted and has information boards for many of the structures. However, if you are short of time this can be skipped. We spent 1 hour 45 minutes at Miletus but the theatre and Baths of Faustina could be seen in under an hour. The theatre is a spectacular sight, from the road and close up. In comparison I was underwhelmed when we first looked down on the Baths of Faustina. However, they were very impressive once we entered the structures of the baths. The experience was even better because we had the Baths of Faustina to ourselves. The Ancient Theatre at Miletus The theatre was first built at Miletus in the 4th century BC following the hill’s curvature and it could accommodate 5,300 spectators. In the 1st century AD the Romans added the enormous vaulted entrance/exit ways on either side of the stage and upper galleries. This expanded the theatre’s capacity to 15,000 spectators and it was one of the largest theatres in Asia Minor. In the 11th century AD, during the Byzantine era, the Miletus theatre was incorporated into a fortress and defensive wall. The top seating rows were removed and the stone blocks used for the fortress. Houses and a small chapel were built into the theatre’s cavea. The remains of the Byzantine fortress are behind the current top row of seats. An imposing view of the theatre at Miletus from the site entrance Vaulted entrance to the theatre at Miletus Vaulted passageway around the theatre at Miletus The theatre at Miletus The theatre at Miletus Baths of Faustina The Baths of Faustina were built in the 2nd century AD, and were dedicated to the wife of Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius (who reigned from 161—180 AD). It's the largest bath complex in Miletus and the second largest structure at Miletus, after the theatre. The Baths of Faustina covered approximately 5,000 square metres and were lavishly decorated with marble floors and numerous statues depicting gods. The statues in the baths today are replicas of the originals which are now in museums. The Baths of Faustina had the typical layout for a Roman bath and consisted of: An apodyterium (changing room) with small rooms for changing. The walls and benches are still in place. A Caldarium (hot rooms) containing a warm water pool for seated bathing. A tepidarium (warm room) for transitioning into the frigidarium. A frigidarium (cold room) with a cold water pool for cooling down. Layout of the Baths of Faustina Apodyterium of the Baths of Faustina The Frigidarium (cold room) at the Baths of Faustina Caldarium at the Baths of Faustina The Caldarium (hot room) at the Baths of Faustina Caldarium at the Baths of Faustina Gateway to the Caldarium at the Baths of Faustina The Baths of Faustina at Miletus Heroon I Heroon 1 is a tomb located behind the theatre. It dates from the Hellenistic period (around 100 BC) and is one of the oldest mausolea at Miletus. The large size of the monument and its elevated position means it contained the remains of a very important person. Entrance to Heroon 1 at Miletus Interior of Heroon 1 at Miletus Great Harbour Monument at Miletus The Great Harbour Monument was built in 63 BC and dedicated to Pompey for his naval victories over pirates. It was later rededicated to Roman Emperor Augustus Caesar (who reigned 27 BC - 14 AD) for his naval victory over Antony and Cleopatra at the Battle of Actium in 31 BC. Great Harbour Monument at Miletus Ionic Stoa The Ionic Stoa is named for its Ionic columns and was built in 58 AD. Rooms containing shops and restaurants were behind the columns. The Ionic Stoa runs for about 100 metres but was much longer in ancient times. It overlooked the main street of Miletus, the Sacred Way. The Ionic Stoa at Miletus 6. My other Blogs on Turkey Visiting the Magnesia Stadium What to see at Pergamon & Bergama Visiting Ephesus & Nearby Sights Visiting the Ancient City of Priene Visiting the Ancient City of Miletus

The Stadium at Magnesia The untouristed 30,000 seater stadium from the 1st century AD is the main reason to visit the Magnesia archaeological site. Contents Brief history of Magnesia Getting to the stadium at Magnesia The stadium at Magnesia The main archaeological site Links to my other blogs about Turkey 1. Brief history of Magnesia Magnesia was re-established in 400 BC and was at its peak under the Pergamon Kingdom after Alexander the Great (336-323 BC). The city held a significant commercial and strategic position on the roads connecting the ancient cities of Ephesus, Priene and Tralleis in Ionia. It was renowned for its grain production and figs. The 30,000 seat stadium was constructed of marble for the Olympic Artemis Games and is evidence of the city's importance and wealth. The stadium in Magnesia was used for sports, horse races, and musical competitions. During the Roman Empire period, Magnesia was an independent city and was described as the 7th city of Anatolia from the 3rd century AD. It was the centre of church governance in Anatolia during the Byzantine period until the 12th century AD. The first excavations at the archaeological site were performed during 1891 and 1893 by a German archaeological team. In 2004 excavations were resumed at Magnesia after an interval of almost 100 years. 2. Getting to the Magnesia Stadium Map showing the location of the Magnesia Stadium and nearby ancient sites The Magnesia archaeological site is only a 20 minute drive south east from Ephesus. A quick stop at Magnesia could easily be combined with a day trip to the interesting archaeological sites at Priene, Miletus and Didyma. Magnesia is on the route to these locations when starting out from Ephesus and Selcuk. We entered "Magnesia Stadium" in Google Maps. When we got near to the archaeological site Google directed us along dirt roads which became narrow. We realised we were on the wrong route and changed the location to "Magnesia ad Maeandrum Ruins". This took us back to the main road (D525) and the office for Magnesia was on the side of the main road. Google stated that Magnesia opened at 08.30. We had planned to arrive at that time but were delayed and arrived just after 09.00. We were dismayed to find that the gate was locked and no one was at the office. The entrance sign said that Magnesia opened at 09.00 in summer and 08.30 in winter. We decided to wait a while and fortunately an official drove up 10 minutes later and opened the office. The entrance fee is EUR 3 and is payable in Turkish lira. They sell drinks and there are toilets although they weren't great. The main section of the archaeological site is by the office. However, the most interesting structure at Magnesia is the massive stadium which is one kilometre away from the office. The stadium is reached by driving a further 100 metres along the D525 main road and turning right onto a narrow side road that goes all the way to the stadium. The side road is now paved but it's a single lane road. The side road is only used by a few farm vehicles and tourists. However, if you meet a vehicle coming from the other direction some reversing would be required until a passing place is found. The Magnesia stadium is fenced off and there is a sliding gate that can be opened remotely from the office. There are security cameras around the site that are monitored by the office and a buzzer by the gate. There is room to park a few cars just outside the gate. We informed the official at the office that we wanted to visit the stadium and when we reached the gate he had partially opened it so we could walk in. It stayed open until we left. Google Map of the Magnesia area Visiting hours at Magnesia Plan of the Magnesia Archaeological Site 3. The Stadium at Magnesia In antiquity, Magnesia was known as the "City of Races" and attracted crowds of visitors due to the plethora of sporting events organised there. Built in the 1st century AD, the Magnesia stadium had 30,000 seats and a track length of 189 metres. The stadium at Magnesia is one of the most imposing and well preserved ancient stadiums and was used until the 3rd century AD. It was a venue for running competitions, horse and chariot races, boxing fights and gladiator games. The excavation of the Magnesia stadium was completed in 2012 and since then it has become a bit overgrown. It's understandable since the revenue must be neglible from the limited number of visitors. There are reliefs at the podium end of the Magnesia stadium that are protected by steel cages. There was a mud slide at the podium end of the stadium which resulted in a small area being closed off. It took us just under an hour to visit the Magnesia stadium and that included paying the entrance fee at the office and driving between the office and the stadium. Information board for the Magnesia Stadium View of the Stadium at Magnesia from the Sphendone The Sphendone of the Stadium at Magnesia - The cages protecting the reliefs are at the bottom A relief at the Magnesia Stadium A relief at the Magnesia Stadium A relief at the Magnesia Stadium The stadium at Magnesia before excavations began in 2008 The stadium at Magnesia after excavations were completed in 2012 4. The main Archaeological Site at Magnesia The Magnesia archeological site is huge but the stadium is the only impressive ancient structure. The main archeological site is by the office and it's worth a quick 15 minute wander around whilst you are there. There are information boards for most of the structures. The Propylon of the Sacred Agora at Magnesia Information board for the Alter of Artemis The Alter of Artemis at Magnesia The Public Latrines at Magnesia 5. Links to my other blogs on Turkey What to see at Pergamon & Bergama Visiting the Ancient City of Miletus Visiting Ephesus & Nearby Sights Visiting the Ancient City of Priene Visiting the Ancient City of Miletus

The Theatre at Priene Priene is one of the best examples of a classical Hellenistic city because it was never overlaid by modern cities or extensively reconstructed by the Romans. Contents History of Priene How to get to Priene Best time to visit Opening hours, entry fees & facilities What to see at Priene My other blogs on Turkey 1. History of Priene Priene was originally established by Greek colonists near the mouth of the Meander River around the 11th century BC. By the 4th century BC sediment deposited by the Meander River had silted up Priene's harbour and turned the coastline into unliveable marshland. Around 350 BC the site was abandoned and a new city was constructed on the slopes of Mount Mycale. The new city of Priene was designed according to the Hippodamian grid plan. Despite the mountain terrain, the city was laid out in a geometric grid of intersecting right-angled streets that divided the town into uniform residential blocks, surrounded by defensive walls. In 334 BC Alexander the Great visited the newly rebuilt city and financially sponsored Priene’s principal sanctuary, the Temple of Athena, in exchange for an inscription dedicating the temple in his name. During the Hellenistic period, Priene flourished as a prosperous agricultural and trading centre with around 4,000 to 5,000 residents, complete with a grand theatre, a gymnasium, a bouleuterion (council hall) and an agora. Priene came under Roman control in 129 BC but remained relatively untouched by Roman architectural interventions. Consequently, it preserved its classical Greek and Hellenistic character. The Meander River continued its relentless deposition of silt. Over the centuries the Gulf of Latmus was completely silted in, cutting Priene off from the sea and stranding the city miles inland. Priene slowly declined due to the loss of maritime trade. By the Byzantine era Priene had shrunk into a modest settlement. As the surrounding lands became waterlogged, and prone to malaria, the population dwindled further. By the late 13th century AD Priene was entirely abandoned. 2. How to get to Priene Entering "Priene Ruins" in Google maps doesn't lead to Priene's car park. The road for the final kilometre isn't shown and instead it shows a path through fields! When we drove to Priene in June 2026 there were also no road signs for the final section of the route. When Google maps indicates that you have reached Priene drive another 500 metres along the road and then take the first road on the left. The car park and entrance gate is at the end of this road. 3. Best Time to Visit Priene Priene is rarely frequented by tour buses and there are relatively few visitors. Therefore crowds aren't an issue for determining when to visit. There are plenty of trees at Priene so heat isn't too much of a concern either. It was 37 degrees centigrade when we visited in mid June and we coped well with the heat. If you can visit earlier or later on summer days it would be better. 4. Opening Hours, Entry Fees and Facilities at Priene Entry tickets cost EUR 4 and are payable in Turkish lira. Unfortunately I didn't make a note of the opening times but they seem to be from 08.30 to 19.00 in summer. There is a store selling drinks and there are good toilets at the spacious car park by the entrance. 5. What to see at Priene The main ancient structures to see at Priene are the theatre, Sanctuary of Athena and bouleuterion. Priene is well signposted and there are plenty of information boards. The site is fairly compact and we spent 1.5 hours there. One of the features of Priene is that it was laid out in a geometric grid of intersecting right-angled streets. Unfortunately we didn't gain any impression of that whilst walking around. Sign at entrance to Priene The Theatre at Priene The theatre was built into the hillside at Priene in the 3rd century BC and has 6,500 seats. It is one of the best preserved theatres from Hellenistic times. At the edge of the semi circular orchestra there are 5 marble seats decorated with ivy ornaments. These were seats of honour and were dedicated to the God of the theatre (Dionysos). The Theatre at Priene The Theatre at Priene Seat of honour at Priene's theatre Bishop's Church (Byzantine Basilica) at Priene The Bishop's church was the largest church at Priene and was built in the 5th/6th century AD with stone from older buildings. The church is in front of the theatre and in a nice shady spot! Bishop's Church (Byzantine Basilica) at Priene Sanctuary of Athena at Priene The Sanctuary of Athena was built in the 4th century BC and was financially sponsored by Alexander the Great. It was the largest temple at Priene. Sanctuary of Athena at Priene The Bouleuterion at Priene The bouleuterion was built around 200 BC and was used for city council meetings. Ruins of Priene with the Bouleuterion in the centre right The Bouleuterion at Priene 6. My other blogs on Turkey Visiting Ephesus & Nearby Sights Visiting the Ancient City of Miletus Visiting the Magnesia Stadium What to see at Pergamon & Bergama Metropolis Archaeological Site

Curete Street at Ephesus Ephesus is unfortunately an extremely popular site and can be very crowded in summer. Curetes Street and Marble Road form the main thoroughfare through Ephesus and they are jammed with tourists at peak times. The Celsus Library becomes incredibly busy with everyone taking photos. Massive cruise ships docked at nearby Kusadasi are the worse culprit. The day before we visited Ephesus there were 3 cruise ships with almost 10,000 passengers docked at Kusadasi. Over half those passengers would have visited Ephesus and mostly in the morning! Crowds completely spoil the experience but they can be avoided with careful planning. We visited Ephesus in mid June 2026 and had the site to ourselves for 1.5 hours. It only became a bit busy at the end of our 3.5 hour visit. The first solitary 1.5 hours at Ephesus was a fantastic experience. At the end of our visit I was intrigued to hear 2 tour leaders inform their groups how lucky they were to be at Ephesus when there weren't any visitors from cruise ships. My blog Visiting Ephesus & Nearby Sights has details of what to see at Ephesus. My advice for avoiding the crowds is: Avoid the Cruise Ships at Kusadasi Before booking your flights and accommodation find a day when there will be no cruise ships at Kusadasi for your visit to Ephesus. There are several websites that provide free information about cruise ships docked at ports and I use cruisetimetables.com. This website states the number of passengers and arrival/departure times for each ship. It's crucial to look at cruise ship schedules as the majority of Ephesus' visitors are from cruise ships. If you can't find a suitable day without any cruise ships at least select a day with fewer passengers and later arrival times. Most cruise ships arrive at Kusadasi between 07.00 and 09.00. I have never been on a cruise but we did unfortunately arrive at Kusadasi on a ferry from Samos when 3 cruise ships were docked there. It was absolute chaos at the port. I am not sure how long it would take passengers who arrive at Kusadasi at 07.00 to embark a tour bus and reach Ephesus. I guess that the tour buses would start arriving at Ephesus from about 08.30. This would negatively impact your visit if you visited Ephesus at 08.00 as I recommend. Cruise ships docking at Kusadasi at 08.00, or later, shouldn't impact you if you visit Ephesus at 08.00. If you plan to visit in the late afternoon it's better if cruise ships leave Kusadasi by 19.00. Visit when Ephesus opens at 08.00 Most travel blogs recommend that you arrive at Ephesus on the dot of 08.00 and they are right! I wasn't going to do this as most hotels in nearby Selcuk only serve breakfast from 08.00. However, our hotel (in Ephesus Hotel and Art Galery) kindly offered to provide a fabulous breakfast at 07.00. When we arrived at Ephesus shortly after 08.00 we were the only visitors there. We virtually had Ephesus to ourselves and it was an incredible experience walking down the deserted site. An early start also means that you avoid the heat of the day and Ephesus is an exposed site. Most hotels won't offer an early breakfast. If so it is better to buy something the night before and eat it in your hotel room. It isn't worth missing the best time of day at Ephesus for a hotel breakfast. Visit Ephesus after 15.30 If you really can't visit Ephesus at 08.00 then it's better to visit after 15.30. Visitors from cruise ships will usually have returned to their vessels by then and most other tour groups will have completed their visits. It's also a bit cooler in the late afternoon. Visit Ephesus in the Evening & Night The Celsus Library at night Marble Road at night I considered visiting in the evening when Ephesus was open until 23.00 but had some concerns about doing so. Firstly the Terrace Houses close at 18.30 and I wanted to see them. Secondly when we visited the Luxor Temple in Egypt at night it was very busy with tour groups and I was concerned Ephesus would be as well. Thirdly night viewings at Ephesus can be cancelled for events. All the comments I have seen on the internet indicate that Ephesus isn't busy at night. However, for some reason photos taken of the Celsus Library at night always show a lot of people! Ephesus at night is definitely not as quiet as at 08.00. I had considered visiting Ephesus both in the morning and at night as the illumination of the buildings provide a different perspective and they look magnificent lit up. The EUR 40 entry fee put me off from doing so! Arrive at Ephesus' Upper Entrance Ephesus Site Map Most travel books and blogs recommend arriving at Ephesus' upper entrance and walking downhill to the lower entrance. Tour companies like doing this as it is less tiring for their customers. Coaches drop off their customers at the upper entrance and collect them at the lower entrance. Normally I do the opposite of what tour groups do! However, if you enter Ephesus at 08.00 it's better to start at the upper entrance as otherwise you will meet the tour groups on your way up from the lower entrance. It's better to have the masses following you when they will be at least 1 hour 30 minutes behind you. It's also a good idea to use the upper entrance if starting in the late afternoon in case tour groups have arrived later in the day. People usually recommend entering at the Upper Entrance because it's easier walking downhill in the heat. At the end of our visit we walked back up the site in the mid June heat and it wasn't a problem at all. If the site was busy with tour groups it would be hassle passing them. Visit the Celsus Library & Latrines before the Terrace Houses Library of Celsus Public Latrines at Ephesus When entering from Ephesus' upper entrance you reach the Terrace Houses before the Celsus Library. The public latrines are more or less opposite the Terrace Houses. It's better to visit the nearby Celsus Library and the Latrines before entering the Terrace House complex. It can take half an hour to properly see the Terrace Houses and if you visit the Celsus Library and the Latrines afterwards they will be busier. The Celsus Library is the most popular building at Ephesus and some visitors spend a lot of time posing for photos there. In contrast not too many visitors enter the Terrace Houses because of the extra cost. Don't Follow a Tour Group into the Terrace Houses The Terrace Houses at Ephesus As mentioned earlier it is worth paying the additional EUR 12 to visit the Terrace Houses. However, as they are enclosed by one huge protective building sound travels around the complex. The loud voice of a tour group leader could spoil the experience. When we were there most tour groups and other visitors didn't enter the Terrace Houses. If you are unlucky to arrive there at the same time as a tour group it's probably better to wait 15 minutes before entering. Avoid Weekends during the Offseason It's unlikely that many locals living in cities and towns like Kusadasi and Izmir would want to visit Ephesus during the peak summer months. They are far more likely to visit in the offseason on a Saturday or Sunday. Therefore during the off season try not to visit Ephesus at weekends. My other blogs on Turkey Visiting Ephesus & Nearby Sights What to see at Pergamon & Bergama Metropolis Archaeological Site Visiting the Ancient City of Priene Visiting the Ancient City of Miletus Visiting the Magnesia Stadium

Map of Bergama The main places of interest in Bergama are the Pergamon Acropolis, Pergamon Asklepion, the Red Basilica and the Bergama archaeological museum. Unfortunately the Red Basilica has been closed for renovations since May 2025. It's meant to reopen in 2026 but was still closed in July 2026. We drove from Ephesus to Bergama in June 2026 and stayed 2 nights. We had a full day exploring Bergama's wonderful sites. If the Red Basilica had been open we would have had enough time to visit it. It's also enjoyable spending an hour or so wandering around the town which fortunately isn't affected by tourism. Bergama deserves more than a fleeting visit and a full day is required to see the main sites. Most visitors don't walk down to the lower Acropolis and miss out on the excellent mosaics in Building Z and the largest gymnasium from the Hellenestic period. Inflation is so high in Turkey that prices to the archaeological sites are posted in Euros but are payable in Turkish lira. I have stated the Euro equivalent of all the costs shown in my blog so that the current Turkish lira equivalent can be determined. Contents Brief history of Pergamon Best time of year & day to visit Pergamon Pergamon acropolis & archaeological site Asklepion of Pergamon Bergama museum The Red Basilica in Bergama Where to stay and eat in Bergama Stop off at Metropolis on the way to Pergamon My other blogs on Turkey 1. Brief History of Pergamon Pergamon was founded in the 3rd century BC as the capital of the Attalid dynasty. Located at a crossroads between Europe and the Middle East it became an important cultural, scientific and political centre. After the city passed to the Romans in 133 BC, Pergamon became a metropolis and was the capital of the Roman Province of Asia. The Romans maintained the existing structures of the Hellenistic Period. During the Roman Period many important structures were built or further developed. These include the Asclepion Sanctuary, the Roman Theatre, a great aqueduct; the Trajan Temple and the Serapeum (Red Basilica). During the Byzantine period Pergamon was transformed from a major Hellenistic and Roman centre into a middle-sized town. 2. Best time of year & day to visit Pergamon The Pergamon Acropolis and Asklepion are both very exposed to the sun. It's therefore best to avoid visiting during the hottest months of July and August if possible. June and September can also be hot. We visited in mid June and were fortunate that it was cloudy and heat wasn't an issue. I recommend visiting the Pergamon Acropolis as soon as it opens at 08.30. This should enable you to avoid tour groups that might start appearing from 09.30 onwards. This is also the coolest part of the day. We spent the whole morning at the Pergamon Acropolis since we explored both the upper and lower sections. Unfortunately many hotels in Turkey serve breakfast late and our hotel in Bergama only served breakfast from 08.30. That's far too late for sightseeing so we skipped breakfast and had a snack in our room instead. Luckily there was a coffee maker in our room. In my opinion avoiding tour groups and the heat is more important than a fancy breakfast. The Pergamon Asklepion is in a different part of Bergama to the Acropolis. The Asklepion is open up to 20.00 although the last entry is at 19.15. Therefore you can avoid tour groups and heat by visiting the Asklepion in the late afternoon or early evening. The Bergama museum is open from 08.30 to 19.30 in summer. It can be visited during the heat of the day as it's in a well air conditioned building. It takes very little time to see the exhibits. The Red Basilica used to close at 19.30 before the site shut for renovations in May 2025. I think it would be popular with tour groups as there is a large coach parking lot very nearby plus several carpet shops opposite it. Once the Red Basilica reopens you should be able to avoid the tour groups by visiting after 16.00. The Pergamon Asklepion could be visited afterwards. We visited Bergama on a Sunday and went to the Pergamon Asklepion at 15.00. There weren't any tour groups but there were more Turkish visitors than I expected. Probably because Izmir is nearby and it was the weekend. 3. Pergamon Acropolis & Archaeological site The Pergamon Acropolis was built into the top slope of the 336 metre high Kale Hill in the 2nd and 3rd century BC. The city developed on the lower slopes of Kale Hill during the Byzantine and Ottoman periods There are several ways to reach the upper section of the Pergamon Acropolis: There is a cable car that costs TRY 1,000 (EUR 20) return and TRY 600 (EUR 12) one way. It's expensive and it doesn't operate if it's too windy. You can drive up and park for TRY 150 (EUR 3) although some people have reported that it took time to find a parking place. However, driving is only a good option if you only want to visit the upper acropolis. If you also visit the lower acropolis, which I highly recommend, this entails walking down to the base of Kale hill. You would then have to get back to the top of the hill to fetch your car! A taxi to the entrance of the upper acropolis costs about TRY 450 (EUR 9). We took a taxi, even though we had a rental car, as we wanted to see the entire acropolis. Our hotel arranged the taxi and it came early. The taxi driver started driving us to the top of the acropolis at 08.15 but we were soon stopped by a gate across the road. The gate was promptly unlocked at 08.30 and we reached the entrance to the acropolis 5 to 10 minutes later. You could walk but I don't recommend it. It costs EUR 15 (in Turkish lira) to enter the Pergamon acropolis and credit cards are accepted. The acropolis is open from 08.30 to 20.00 with the last entry at 19.15. There is a shop and good toilets by the entrance at the upper acropolis. After the entrance there is a sign pointing down to the left to the Great Altar of Zeus. It's best to ignore this sign and continue straight on to the theatre. Only a mound is left of the Great Altar of Zeus as most of the alter is in a Berlin Museum. If you are only visiting the upper acropolis the alter isn't worth seeing. If you are going to walk down to the lower acropolis you will see it on the way down. Upper Cable Car Station at Pergamon Pergamon Site Map The citadel wall at Pergamon We first went to the very impressive theatre which is accessed through a tunnel. The theatre was built into the steep hillside in the 3rd century BC and seated 10,000 people. We found that the best view of the theatre for photographs was from near the Temple of Trajan. Entrance to Pergamon's theatre The impressive theatre at Pergamon From the theatre we walked to the Temple of Trajan through the interesting sub structure. The temple was constructed in the 2nd century AD. The Temple of Trajan and the theatre are the must see sites in the upper acropolis. Substructure of the Sanctuary of Trajan at Pergamon Substructure of the Sanctuary of Trajan at Pergamon The Temple of Trajan at Pergamon The Temple of Trajan at Pergamon The Temple of Trajan at Pergamon After viewing the Temple of Trajan we did a circular walk around the top of the acropolis and there is a board walk around at least part of it. The route passes the remains of the arsenals and there is a good view of the Kestel Dam Lake on the other side of the acropolis. Boardwalk around the upper section of the Pergamon Acropolis View of Kestel Dam Lake from the rear of Pergamon's Acropolis Remains of the arsenals at Pergamon Ruins of the Acropolis of Pergamon We spent 1.5 hours comprehensively viewing the upper acropolis but it could be viewed in an hour. We had the upper acropolis to ourselves until 09.30 when one tour group arrived. Online reviews indicate that not too many groups visit the acropolis. Certainly nothing like at Ephesus! We then began the walk down to the lower acropolis via the Great Altar of Zeus. At the beginning there was nothing to see and I wondered if we were wasting our time. I changed my opinion when we reached Building Z which is a small version of the Terraced Houses at Ephesus. The base of the Great Altar of Zeus at Pergamon Building protecting the Odeon and Heroon of Diodoros Pasparos on the descent from the Upper Acropolis Odeon at Pergamon Heroon (Tomb) of Diodoros Pasparos at Pergamon Building Z is a grand house dating back to the 2nd century BC. It was lived in until 178 AD. when the house was abandoned due to an earthquake. Building Z contains some excellent mosaics and frescoes. Building Z at Pergamon Building Z at Pergamon Mosaic in Building Z at Pergamon Mosaic in Building Z at Pergamon Mosaic in Building Z at Pergamon Mosaic in Building Z at Pergamon We descended from Building Z to the expansive Gymnasium area. It's the largest known gymnasium from the Hellenistic period and dates back to 170 BC. The gymnasium is spread over 3 levels with the upper level being for adults, the middle level for youths and the lower level for children. The gymnasium's upper level is particularly impressive. Upper Gymnasium at Pergamon The upper Gymnasium at Pergamon Basins in the Upper Gymnasium at Pergamon The Upper Gymnasium at Pergamon The Lower Gymnasium at Pergamon After the Gymnasium there is only the House of Attalos which has a mosaic and fresco. Unfortunately it's very hard to see into the building and therefore not worth bothering with. The House of Attalos at Pergamon The House of Attalos at Pergamon There is an unmanned turnstile at the bottom of the fenced site for exiting. We were relieved it was operational as we didn't want to walk back up! From there we descended down several lanes until we reached our hotel near the Red Basilica. We spent 1.5 hours walking through Pergamon's lower acropolis. It was thoroughly worthwhile and the best sites were Building Z and the huge Gymnasium area. We only saw one other person which made the experience even better. 4. The Asklepion of Pergamon The Asklepion of Pergamon was a healing centre built in honour of the Greek god of healing Asklepius. Established in the 4th century BC, it was renowned for its use of various treatments such as hot, cold and mud baths, medicinal herbs, as well as treatments based on sports and music. The highlights of the Asklepion of Pergamon are the: Ancient theatre Sacred Way (Via Tecta) North Gallery of the Temple of Zeus Asclepius with its reconstructed columns 2 storey circular treatment structure Underground passages There is parking at the Asklepion of Permagon which costs TRY 150 (EUR 3). The Asklepion is open from 08.30 to 20.00 and the last entry is at 19.15. There is an entrance fee EUR 13 which is payable in Turkish lira. We spent an hour and a quarter viewing the Asklepion. The entrance is at the east of the site and the Asklepion is reached by walking along the Via Tecta (Sacred Way) which used to connect the Permagon Acropolis to the Asklepion. The Via Tecta was constructed in the 2nd century AD. Plan of the Asklepion of Pergamon The Via Tecta (Sacred Way) View towards the Theatre and North Gallery at the Asklepion of Pergamon The theatre was constructed in the 2nd century AD and had a capacity of 3,500 people. The Theatre at the Asklepion of Pergamon The gallery of the Temple of Zeus Asclepius was built in the 2nd century BC. The North Gallery is the most complete one as many of the columns have been reconstructed. The North Gallery at the Asklepion of Pergamon Entrance to the tunnel accessing the circular treatment area The tunnel to the circular treatment area at the Asklepion of Pergamon The fascinating 2 storey circular treatment area was built in the 2nd century AD and is well preserved. It was connected to the sanctuary's pool and sacred spring by a 70 metre tunnel. The spring can still be seen at the Asklepion. The circular treatment area at the Asklepion of Pergamon The circular treatment area at the Asklepion of Pergamon The circular treatment area at the Asklepion of Pergamon 5. The Bergama Museum The entrance fee is EUR 3 and the equivalent in Turkish Lira must be paid in cash as credit cards aren't accepted. The museum is in a nice building but it doesn't take long to see the exhibits. We only spent 20 minutes at the museum. The English narratives on the information boards are poorly written and uninteresting. I wouldn't recommend visiting the museum unless you need something to do or are a museum buff. That's my personal opinion but there are quite a few positive reviews of the museum on the internet. Exhibit room at the Bergama museum Exhibit about the Alter of Zeus at the Bergama museum Exhibit at the Bergama museum The Medusa Mosaic at the Bergama museum 6. The Red Basilica at Bergama The Red Basilica of Pergamon, also known as Red Hall, is one of the largest remaining Roman structures in the ancient Greek world. The building was constructed of red brick, which was very unusual for large buildings in Asia Minor at the time. The temple was built in the 2nd century AD on the orders of Emperor Hadrian, who was a supporter of the Egyptian gods, to whom it was initially dedicated. Although the temple itself was huge, it was part of a much bigger complex of sacred buildings, little of which remains standing today. In the 5th century AD the temple was converted into a Christian basilica. It was destroyed by Arab forces in the early 8th century during their unsuccessful campaign to conquer the Byzantine capitol of Constantinople. The city of Pergamon fell into Ottoman hands in the 14th century and the building was converted into a mosque. The Red Basilica is a very impressive structure but it has unfortunately been shut for renovations since May 2025. It's meant to reopen in 2026 but as at July 2026 it was still closed and there were was no sign that it would reopen soon. Prior to the renovation visitors reported that they spent less than an hour visiting the Red Basilica. The Red Basilica at Bergama The Red Basilica at Bergama The Red Basilica at Bergama The Red Basilica at Bergama The Red Basilica at Bergama 7. Where to stay and eat in Bergama We stayed at the Attalos Suites Hotel which has the best accommodation in Bergama. The hotel is a short walk away from both the Red Basilica and the lower cable car station for the Pergamon Acropolis. We had an excellent lunch at the Sarmasik Lokantasi restaurant which is a 5 minute walk into Bergama from the Red Basilica. They prepare numerous trays of traditional Turkish food and close when they are finished. The dishes aren't replenished during the day so I don't recommend having dinner there. Akasya Park restaurant receives good reviews but we didn't eat there. It was very close to our hotel. The food at our hotel was fairly good although the portions weren't that generous. Traditional Turkish restaurant in Bergama A few of the dishes on offer at the Sarmasik Lokantasi restaurant Other dishes on offer at the Sarmasik Lokantasi restaurant Akasya Park restaurant in Bergama 8. Stop off at Metropolis on the way to Pergamon When driving northwards to Pergamon from Ephesus, Selcuk or Kusadasi the archaeological site of Metropolis is a good stop off. Metropolis is not very far off the main route. See my blog about Metropolis for further details. Route from Ephesus to Pergamon via Metropolis The hypocaust central heating system at the bath complex at Metropolis 9. Links to my other Blogs on Turkey Visiting Ephesus & Nearby Sights Visiting the Stadium at Magnesia Visiting the Ancient City of Miletus Metropolis Archaeological Site Visiting the Ancient City of Priene

Basilica of St. John in Selcuk, Turkey Contents Opening Hours & Entrance Fee for the Basilica of St. John Brief History of the Basilica of St. John & Ayasuluk Fortress How to get the the Basilica of St. John When to Visit the Basilica of St. John What to see at the Basilica of St. John & Ayasuluk Fortress Mosque of Isa Bey My other travel blogs on Turkey 1. Basilica of St. John Opening Hours & Entrance Fee The Basilica of St. John is open from 08.00 to 19.00 and entry tickets cost EUR 6 (payable in Turkish lira). The entry ticket also gives access to the Ayasuluk Fortress which is open from 09.00 to 17.30 in summer. Google wrongly states that the fortress closes at 16.30. There are good toilets and a gift shop in the middle of the site. Opening hours for the Ayasuluk Fortress 2. History of Basilica of St. John & Ayasuluk Fortress Saint John spent his last years in Ephesus. He died around 100 AD and was buried on Ayasoluk Hill. There was a commemorative plaque on his grave and in the 4th century AD it was encased in a chapel. In the 6th century AD the Byzantine Emperor Justinian ordered the construction of a huge Basilica on this site. The construction of the Basilica used stone from the nearby Temple of Artemis and it was completed in 565 AD. The Basilica of Saint John was an important goal for pilgrims as it was believed that the dust from the tomb of the Apostle possessed healing properties. Ephesus declined after the invasion of the Arabs in the years 654-655 and some of the population relocated to Ayasoluk Hill. A hilltop fortress was built above the Basilica of St. John and it was surrounded by thick walls. In 1304 the Seljuk Turks invaded the city. The Basilica of St. John was transformed into a mosque and pilgrims had to pay for the access to the tomb of St. John. In 1402 the Mongol army invaded the area and the Basilica was destroyed. For over 600 years the ruins of the Basilica lay in oblivion and its stones used for building materials. 3. How to get to the Basilica of St. John The Basilica of St. John is a 10 minute uphill walk from Selcuk and the Isa Bey Mosque. The Ayasuluk fortress is a short walk further up the hill through the Basilica of St John. Red line shows the route 4. When to Visit the Basilica of St. John We visited Ephesus in the morning (see my 2026 Travel Guide for Ephesus). After a rest we visited the Basilica of St. John at 16.30. This meant we didn't run into any tour groups and it wasn't during the hottest part of the day. The Basilica is open until 19.00 and an even later visit would result in cooler temperatures and less people. However, if you want to see the fortress it closes at 17.30. I wouldn't worry about visiting the interior of the Ayasuluk Fortress as there is very little to see inside. 5. What to see at Basilica of St. John & Ayasuluk Fortress The Basilica of St.John is an evocative and beautiful ruin that's worthwhile wandering around. There are a few information boards at the Basilica. The Ayasuluk Fortress has an impressive exterior which can be seen from the Basilica. There's very little to see inside except for a small mosque and a small covered cistern. It's possible to walk along the ramparts. We spent one hour wandering around the Basilica and Fortress. Basilica of St. John in Selcuk Basilica of St. John in Selcuk Basilica of St. John in Selcuk Ayasuluk Fortress in Selcuk Mosque in the interior of Ayasuluk Fortress, Selcuk Desolate Interior of Ayasuluk Fortress, Selcuk 6. Mosque of Isa Bey The Isa Bey Mosque is situated below the Ayasoluk Castle and Basilica of St. John and they can all be visited together. The mosque has a very imposing exterior. and is one of the best examples of Anatolian mosque architecture. It was built in 1375 using stone and columns from the ruins at Ephesus and the Temple of Artemis. The mosque stood in ruins for many years but was restored in 1970 and reopened for prayer. Originally, the mosque featured two grand minarets. The eastern minaret was completely levelled by early tremors, while the surviving western brick minaret had its top half taken down by an earthquake in the 17th century. The Mosque is accessed through a very pleasant central courtyard. It's shaded by trees and has Ottoman gravestones resting against the walls. The interior of the mosque isn't very special. Modest attire is required; head coverings for women and covered legs for everyone, with wraps available at the entrance. Mosque of Isa Bey in Selcuk Courtyard of Isa Bey Mosque, Selcuk 7. My other travel blogs on Turkey Visiting Ephesus & Nearby Sights Visiting the Ancient City of Priene Visiting the Ancient City of Miletus Visiting the Magnesia Stadium What to see at Pergamon & Bergama Metropolis Archaeological Site

Moraine Lake We lived in Vancouver for 8 years and returned for a visit in September 2025. We spent 4 weeks travelling around British Columbia and the Canadian Rockies. We had a great trip and excellent weather. The only issue was smoke from forest fires but that only affected us for 3 days. See my Vancouver Travel Guide for information about visiting Vancouver. Contents Itinerary for Vancouver to Canadian Rockies Drive When to visit Banff and Jasper National Parks Rental of Cars and RV's in Canada Accommodation in British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies Drive from Vancouver to Okanagan (Penticton) 2 Days in the Okanagan Drive from Penticton to Nelson Drive from Nelson to Invermere 1 Day at Invermere and Radium Hot Springs Drive from Invermere to Canmore 2 Nights in Canmore and Banff Drive from Canmore to Jasper along the Icefields Parkway 2 Nights in Jasper Drive from Jasper to Field along the Icefields Parkway 4 Nights in Field, British Columbia Drive from Field to Salmon Arm Drive from Salmon Arm to Whistler 2 Nights in Whistler Drive - Whistler to Vancouver along the Sea to Sky Highway Links to my other Blogs on Canada 1. Itinerary for Vancouver to Canadian Rockies Drive Our route is indicated in black I had thought about driving one way from Vancouver and dropping the rental car off in Calgary. However, the additional charge for a one way rental was far too much. I therefore planned an itinerary that wouldn't mean driving back to Vancouver on the same route. The only road that we drove both ways was the Icefield Parkway between Banff and Jasper. It is actually a good idea to drive the Icefield Parkway both ways. The road is very scenic and there's lots to do and see along the route. If you like hiking then 2 full days are needed for the Icefield Parkway. Also if the weather is bad one day then hopefully the weather will be good the other day. When planning our itinerary I wanted to allow plenty of time so that we could explore areas rather than just driving past them. On the other hand Banff and Jasper National Parks are very expensive destinations and I didn't want too much down time. We had initially intended to spend a 3rd night at Jasper, a 5th night at Field (Yoho National Park) and a 3rd night at Whistler so we could do some hiking. Unfortunately my wife had a foot problem so we couldn't do so. Also the 2024 fires in Jasper resulted in a couple of popular hiking areas being closed in 2025. From Vancouver we took the scenic highway 3 eastwards along the U.S. border. The other option was highway 5 (Coquihalla Highway) but the scenery along that highway is too forested for my liking. As it turned out highway 5 was closed due to forest fires so we had no option! There were several options for the return route: Highway 5 from Jasper to Vancouver. Trans Canada highway 1 from Banff National Park all the way to Vancouver. Trans Canada highway 1 to Cache Creek and then highway 99 to Vancouver via Whistler. I decided on the third option as we had never driven on the highway 99 from Cache Creek to Whistler. Our itinerary was: Vancouver Several nights Penticton 3 nights Nelson 1 night Invermere 2 nights Banff 2 nights Jasper 2 nights Field 4 nights Salmon Arm 1 night Whistler 2 nights Vancouver 3 nights Continue reading for more information about this itinerary and what to see and do at the places we visited. 2. When to visit Banff and Jasper National Parks The main season for visiting Banff and Jasper National Parks is from April to October. Our recent visit was in mid September and many years ago we visited in late April. We had excellent weather both times. April and May are offseason for summer activities. There will still be snow on many hiking trails and ice on some lakes. The access roads to Moraine Lake and Takakkaw Falls in Yoho National Park will be closed. June isn't a good month to visit as usually it's the wettest month of the year. Also in very early June some of the higher altitude lakes like Lake Louise and Moraine Lake may still be covered with ice. July and August are the busiest and most expensive months. I would therefore avoid those months if possible. The weather should be good but there is a high risk of forest fires and the smoke can obscure views. September is a popular month but is not as busy as July and August. The weather is usually good although it will be getting cooler in late September. There can be snow at higher altitude when hiking in late September. There could still be a problem with smoke from forest fires for most of the month. A big attraction towards the end of September is the golden larch trees. Unfortunately this also brings a lot of local visitors into Banff and Jasper National parks. October is offseason and the first half of October could be a reasonable time to visit if you don't mind cooler, and shorter, days. If you are driving through British Columbia winter tyres are required on certain routes from 1st October. 3. Rental of Cars and RV's in Canada We rented a SUV with Avis through Booking.com. We booked a few months ahead and car rental prices increased in the months after that. If prices had come down we could have cancelled our reservation up to a day before the rental began. It's therefore better to book a vehicle early. When we went to pick up our vehicle Avis upgraded us to a Grand Cherokee Jeep. It was way too big and difficult to park. We therefore swapped it the next day for a BMW X1 SUV and we really enjoyed driving it. A lot of visitors rent large RV's to avoid paying the exorbitant hotel costs in Banff and Jasper and to avoid high restaurant prices. I am not convinced about the benefit of renting a RV as: They are more difficult to drive and park due to their size. Everything has to be packed away when you drive somewhere. They are a lot more expensive to rent than cars when all the extras are taken into account. Fuel consumption is much worse than for a car. Food costs can be kept at a reasonable level when staying in apartments and hotels. Most hotels have fridges and some have microwaves. We often bought food from the supermarket delis and ate it on paper plates. At apartments we also bought roast chickens from the delis and had takeaways. For breakfast we had porridge or bread and marmalade. 4. Accommodation in British Columbia & Canadian Rockies We found that accommodation in Vancouver, Banff, Lake Louise and Jasper was very expensive. In summer time it would be very difficult to find reasonable accommodation for less than $400 a night. Usually this wouldn't include breakfast. The hotel prices in Vancouver are high as it's one of the main ports for Alaskan cruises. In addition there are restrictions on short term apartment rentals and that also applies to some other areas in British Columbia like the Okanagan. It's difficult to avoid the high accommodation prices in Vancouver. However, for Banff a good alternative is to stay in Canmore which is a 20 minute drive south of Banff. The accommodation in Canmore is more reasonably priced and better quality. Apartments can also be rented in Canmore. We preferred Canmore to Banff as it's less touristy and it is a very pleasant and scenic town. A good alternative to Lake Louise is the the small railway town of Field which is a 20 minute drive west of Lake Louise. Field is in Yoho National Park and there are several interesting sights to see there. Banff could also be visited from Field as it's only a 1 hour drive away. The Truffle Pigs Restaurant & Lodge is the only hotel in Field and the other accommodation in Field is provided by guest houses. We stayed in the Truffle Pigs Lodge and had a good room with 2 queen beds for $315 a night. The Truffle Pigs Lodge is near the railway and there is noise from both stationary and moving trains. As there isn't air conditioning we had to have the window open. The noise didn't bother us but it could disturb light sleepers. At Jasper we paid $460 a night for an excellent cabin at Pine Bungalows. Accommodation in Jasper is in even shorter supply than usual due to the devastating fire in July 2024. It's important to book accommodation early in Banff, Jasper and Yoho national Parks as demand often exceeds supply. Even if you find last minute accommodation it's likely to be expensive and/or not the best quality. 5. Drive from Vancouver to Okanagan (Penticton) We drove from Vancouver to Penticton on highway 3 which is British Columbia's most southerly highway. We stopped off on the way at Harrison Hot Springs, the Hope Landslide and Manning Park. This route is very scenic but the smoke from forest fires was so bad that we could see very little of the mountains and it spoiled the journey. To make matters worse there was road construction after Manning Park and it delayed us by over 3 hours! The actual driving time from Vancouver to Penticton should have been 5.5 hours. However, it took much longer and with the stop offs we only reached Penticton at 20.00 despite starting out at 09.00. Our first stop was Harrison Hot Springs which is a resort town set on a scenic lake with a large sandy beach. It has expanded a lot since we were last there. We walked along the waterfront but only had glimpses of the mountains through the smoke. Our next stop was the Hope Slide which was a huge landslide that occurred in 1965 and covered part of the highway killing 4 people. We could just see it through the smoke! We had driven by Manning Park in the past but had never visited it. We drove to Lightning Lake where there is a pleasant day use area and we ate our lunch there. My plan had been to also drive up to the Cascade Viewpoint on the other side of highway 3 from Manning Park. It's a 15 minute drive up a winding road to this viewpoint and there are excellent views in good weather. We didn't bother doing this as there was far too much smoke. We had been advised by a friend to stop at one of the numerous fruit stall at Keremeos, which is a 45 minute drive before reaching Penticton. Unfortunately we were just too late and tired to do so. It looked to be the best place in the Okanagan to buy fruit. Harrison Hot Springs The Hope Landslide Lightning Lake at Manning Park 6. Two Days in the Okanagan Map of the Okanagan I had booked an apartment near Penticton 6 months prior to our trip. A couple of months afterwards I received a request to cancel the reservation due to the new laws restricting the short term rental of apartments. I therefore had to book a hotel for 3 nights and we stayed at the Balcomo in Penticton at a rate of $250 a night. It's a fancy motel rather than a hotel but we enjoyed our stay. Unfortunately it was very hazy during our stay due to smoke. If it hadn't been for the smoke we would have had sunny weather and hot temperatures. We found that 3 nights in the Okanagan were ample. One of the main attractions of the Okanagan are the numerous wineries but Lani (my wife) doesn't drink. The other main attraction is the beaches and lakes but it wasn't swimming weather due to the haze. Penticton is situated between 2 lakes. Okanagan lake is to the north and it has a sandy beach. The SS Sicamous is at the western end of this beach. Skaha lake is on the southern edge of Penticton and has a bigger sandy beach. The SS Sicamous is a paddle wheeler that was launched in 1914 and was used for transport on Okanagan lake. It's now a museum and it receives good reviews. The entrance fee is only $10 but unfortunately it was closed when we were there. On Saturday mornings there is a popular farmer's market in Penticton and it's worth wandering around it. The most popular section of the decommissioned Kettle Valley Railway (KVR) runs 16 kilometres from Penticton to Naramata on the east side of Okanagan lake. It's a well maintained trail for both walkers and cyclists. Bikes can be rented from several bike shops in Penticton. There are wineries and breweries along this trail. Kelowna is a 1 hour drive north of Penticton. It's a scenic drive along the western side of Okanagan lake. However, the southern suburbs of Kelowna were unattractive. We liked City Park and the waterfront walkway in downtown Kelowna. Okanagan Lake Beach in Penticton SS Sicamous, Penticton Skaha Lake Park, Penticton Kettle Valley Rail Trail in Penticton Vineyard on the Kettle Valley Rail Trail in Penticton Brewery & Pub on the Kettle Valley Rail Trail in Penticton Kelowna City Park 7. Drive from Penticton to Nelson It's a 4 hour drive from Penticton to Nelson but with stops along the way it took about 8 hours. It wasn't as hazy as it had been the last few days and as we drove south towards Osoyoos the sky cleared. We stopped briefly at Osoyoos and it looks like a nice small town. Probably nicer than Penticton and Kelowna. After Osoyoos the road ascended steeply into the mountains. We were pleasantly surprised that the mountains weren't very forested and there was scenic open countryside. We stopped at Christina Lake Provincial Park for lunch. Nelson is on Kootenay Lake and is an attractive town not spoilt by modern development. Unfortunately there isn't much decent accommodation in Nelson and the only good hotel seemed to be the expensive Prestige Lakeside Resort. When I booked the room at the Prestige Lakeside Resort it was over $400 a night. I was therefore annoyed to find the day before we checked in that the room prices had dropped to around $300 a night. Unfortunately it was too late to change our reservation. Luckily the hotel was good and they upgraded our room. We didn't do much in Nelson due to a lack of time and I had been there a couple of times before on business. If we had had more time I would have done the popular hike to Pulpit Rock. This hike takes 1.5 to 2 hours. In the evening we went into the old town centre for a Mexican meal at the Cantina del Centro. We had a table outside on the main street and the food and service was excellent. Vaseux Lake south of Penticton Osoyoos Lake Christina Lake Provincial Park Kootenay Lake near Nelson The Main Street in Nelson View of Kootenay Lake from Nelson 8. Drive from Nelson to Invermere If the hotel in Nelson hadn't been so expensive we might have stayed a second night as there is a scenic circular drive that had been recommended on the Tripadvisor forum. This drive goes north of Nelson on the highway 6 to New Denver. The Nikkei Internment Memorial Centre is at New Denver and it's where 22,000 Japanese Canadians were interned during the 2nd World War. The entry fee is $9 with discounts for seniors and children. The road from New Denver back to Nelson runs along Kootenay Lake on highway 31. It's worth stopping at the pretty village of Kaslo on the way. The SS Moyie is located there and is the world's oldest passenger sternwheeler. From New Denver it's a short 10 minute walk to Fletcher Falls. There are two routes from Nelson to Invermere. The quickest route goes south of Nelson on highway 6 and then east on highway 3 to Cranbook. From Cranbook highway 93 goes north to Invermere. The driving time is about 4 hours. The other route goes east from Nelson to Balfour which is on the west side of Kootenay Lake. From Balfour there is car ferry to Kootenay Bay on the east side of Kootenay Lake. This is the world's longest free ferry ride! From Kootenay Bay highway 3A runs south along Kootenay Lake to Cranbrook. We took the second route as it seemed more interesting. On the way from Nelson to Balfour we stopped at Kokanee Provincial Park to see the salmon spawning. The Kootenay Lake ferry runs about every 40 minutes and there was plenty of space on the vessel. Whilst waiting for the ferry we treated ourselves to a coffee and freshly baked cake at the excellent Old World Bakery. The ferry ride takes about 30 minutes and is very scenic. We were wondering whether to make a slight detour to Kimberley on the way from Cranbook to Invermere. We were glad we didn't as it would have made the journey too long. Luckily we had gained one hour during today's journey as Invermere is in the Mountain time zone. I booked a 3 bedroom condominium in Invermere for $315 a night through VRBO. It was excellent as it was a spacious corner condo on the top floor with views of Lake Windermere. A condo like that in Vancouver would cost over $1,000 a night. In the evening we bought a roast chicken and salads from a supermarket deli and ate it in the apartment. Salmon at Kokanee Provincial Park The Ferry between Balfour and Kootenay Bay View from the Balfour to Kootenay Bay Ferry 9. One Day at Invermere and Radium Hot Springs In the morning we stopped off at the Parks Canada office in the town of Radium Hot Springs to buy an annual pass for Canada's National Parks. The annual Discovery Pass costs $75.25 with a discount for seniors. A daily pass costs $11 and it is therefore cheaper and more convenient to buy an annual pass if you are spending more than 7 days in Canada's National Parks. We then went on to the Radium Hot Springs pools in Kootenay National Park. The pools open quite late in September and even later in winter. Check the opening hours before going. Radium Hot Springs costs $17.50 for an adult and there are discounts for seniors and children. We really enjoyed the Radium Hot Springs pool and spent about 2 hours soaking in it. It was very sociable and we chatted to several people. There are changing rooms, toilets, drinking water and free lockers there. Towels cost extra so it's best to bring your own. There's also a cooler pool for swimming but we didn't use it. On the drive back to Invermere we stopped at Sinclair Canyon and walked through it. It's worth stopping but it isn't a haven of peace as the main road runs through it! Invermere has 2 popular beaches on Lake Windermere. There is a stony beach at James Chabot Provincial Park which was right by our apartment. The more sandy Kinsmen beach was a short drive away. Radium Springs Hot Pool Sinclair Canyon in Kootenay National Park Beach at James Chabot Provincial Park, Invermere Kinsmen Beach in Invermere 10. Drive from Invermere to Canmore Kootenay National Park's attractions are in the southern and northern ends of the park and there is little to do in between. We saw Sinclair Canyon and Radium Hot Springs in the south of the park yesterday. Today we visited the sights in the northern end of Kootenay National Park as we had to drive through Kootenay National Park to reach Canmore, our next destination. As it's only a 2 hour drive from Invermere to Canmore we had plenty of time to sightsee. Map of the northern section of Kootenay National Park Numa Falls in Kootenay National Park was the first stop. The car park is just off Highway 93 and the falls are a 2 minute walk from the car park. There's a bridge over the river which provides a good view of the falls. It doesn't take long to see Numa Falls. The parking lot for the Paint Pots is only a 5 minute drive from Numa Falls. The Paint Pots are 1 kilometre from the car park and it's a 15 minute scenic walk. The Paint Pots are 3 colourful pools of mineral water. Marble Canyon is a short drive further along Highway 93. It's possible to hike between the Paint Pots and Marble Canyon but it didn't appear to be a scenic trail. The trail to Marble Canyon follows the canyon upwards and there are 7 bridges to cross. The 700 metre long path is steep at times. There are good views of the canyon and river along the trail. If you want to do a scenic hike the Stanley Glacier Trail is in this part of Kootenay National Park. The hike takes about 4 hours. The Continental divide is at the boundary of Kootenay and Banff National Parks. The continental divide is the dividing line between the Pacific and Atlantic watersheds. We quickly stopped to take a photo of the sign. The mountain scenery from here to Canmore is spectacular. When we reached Canmore we checked into a one bedroom apartment that I had booked through VRBO for $380 a night. The apartment was fine but I wouldn't recommend it. Kootenay River in Kootenay National Park Numa Falls in Kootenay National Park Trail to the Paint Pots in Kootenay National Park A Paint Pot in Kootenay National Park Marble Canyon in Kootenay National Park Castle Mountain in Banff National Park The Continental Divide between Kootenay and Banff National Parks View when driving from Kootenay National Park to Banff 11. Two Nights in Canmore and Banff Canmore Map of downtown Canmore After checking into our apartment we walked around Canmore's very pleasant downtown area. 8th Street is Canmore's main street and it's pedestrianised in summertime. It's very similar to Banff's main street with lots of shops and restaurants and there are good views of the mountains. Canmore's main street runs from west to east and the Policeman's Creek Boardwalk is at the eastern end. The first section of the Policeman's Creek Boardwalk is the most scenic as the trail becomes forested after the first bridge. I therefore crossed the creek at the first bridge and walked back to main street along the pleasant Spring Creek Drive. Bow River is at the western end of main street. I walked on both sides of the Bow River between Canmore Engine Bridge and Bridge Road as it's very scenic. I also walked southwards from Bridge Road along the east side of the Bow River until it became forested. There are good views of the Three Sisters on this section. My route is shown in yellow on the map. Drivers can park on the western side of Bridge Road where there is a small parking lot at the Canmore Public Boat Launch that costs about $4 an hour. I wanted to visit Quarry Lake which is a 7 minute drive from downtown Canmore. Quarry Lake is in a beautiful setting and is a popular location as a result. I didn't go there as the parking cost has been increased to $10 an hour and there is a 2 hour minimum. Main Street Canmore Policeman Creek Trail at Canmore Policeman Creek Trail at Canmore Walk along the Bow river in Canmore. The 3 Sisters in the background Walk along the Bow river in Canmore Banff Town Map of Banff Town There is a free parking lot at Banff Train Station with 500 parking spaces. It's about a 10 minute walk from Banff Avenue which is Banff's main shopping street. We parked at the Cascade of Time Garden which is just across the bridge from Banff Avenue. We arrived at 09.15 and were delighted to find plenty of free parking and public toilets. We didn't walk around the attractive garden and only went to the popular viewpoint that looks down Banff Avenue to Cascade Mountain. From the Cascade of Time Garden we walked over the bridge and along Banff Avenue. Not all the shops were open yet but it was starting to become busy. It's a pleasant main street but we aren't keen shoppers and many of the stores were very exclusive. We returned to the bridge and started walking along the 1.2 kilometre long Bow River Trail to Bow Falls. I thought it would be a scenic trail but trees obscured the views. As Lani had a foot problem we turned back and drove to Bow Falls instead. We were pleased to find a large car park at Bow Falls with plenty of free spaces. This car park can be used to see both the Bow Falls and the Banff Springs Hotel. The hotel can be viewed by walking further along the road to the nearby bridge over the Bow River. Surprise Corner Viewpoint is on the opposite side of the river to Bow Falls. The car park is small and we parked in the last available space. There are excellent views of the Banff Springs Hotel. When visiting Banff I recommend stopping first at Surprise Corner Viewpoint due to the lack of parking. Then drive to the Cascade of Time Garden car park. There are plenty of parking spaces at Bow Falls so there is no urgency in driving there. View from the Cascade of Time Garden in Banff Banff's Main High Street View of the Banff Springs Hotel from Surprise Corner Viewpoint View from Bow Falls Viewpoint in Banff Sights around Banff Town Lake Minnewanka Circular Drive After visiting Banff Town we drove a short distance to the Vermillion Lakes. There are 3 lakes and a few places where you can pull over and enjoy the views. There are many cyclists as the Vermillion Lakes are close to Banff. It should take less than an hour to see Vermillion Lakes. From Vermillion Lake we did a circular drive to Lake Minnewanka. We stopped at 3 scenic lakes on the way. The first stop was at Cascade Ponds where we had a picnic lunch before doing the short walk around the ponds. Our second stop was at 2 Jacks Lake. The weather was quite warm and people were sunbathing, swimming and using inflatables on the lake. It's a very pleasant place in good weather. Johnson Lake was our last stop before reaching Lake Minnewanka. Lake Minnewanka is 21 kilometres long and is the second largest lake in the Canadian Rockies. There are regular one hour boat cruises on Lake Minnewanka that cost around $70. We didn't go on a boat cruise due to the cost. The Banff Upper Hot Springs were closed for maintenance during our visit. I wasn't bothered about going anyway as I had been before and in summer time the hot springs can be too crowded. Entry costs $17.50 with discounts for seniors and adults. It's open from 10.00 to 22.00. There are 2 gondolas and 1 chairlift in the vicinity of Banff Town. I researched them before our trip but we didn't go up on any of them due to the cost. The Banff gondola is the most popular out of the three options. It has the best views but also the highest cost! Tickets cost around $90 but the price varies as there is dynamic pricing. Booking in advance is encouraged but I would be wary of booking more than a day in advance as mountain weather is unpredictable. The Sunshine gondola is a bit cheaper and the best option if you want to hike at the top on scenic trails. The Mount Norquay chairlift is the cheapest of the 3 options but the views aren't as good as from the Banff gondola. Vermillion Lakes near Banff Cascade Ponds in Banff Springs National Park 2 Jacks Lake in Banff National Park Johnson Lake in Banff National Park Lake Minnewanka in Banff National Park 12. Drive from Canmore to Jasper along the Icefields Parkway We spent 8.5 hours driving from Canmore to Jasper in excellent weather and stopped at all the places we wanted to see. It's a fantastic drive but also very popular. We managed to quickly park at all the places but the car parks were pretty full. I was glad we weren't driving a RV as it makes parking so much more difficult. I have highlighted in red on the map all the places we stopped at and the photos are below. We didn't do any hikes apart from the short hikes to see the waterfalls, lakes, glacier etc as we didn't have time. We didn't do the Columbia Icefield Adventure which involves travelling on a huge vehicle onto the Columbia Glacier and spending about 30 minutes on the glacier. This tour costs a whopping $125! This cost includes the Columbia Icefield Skywalk which is a glass floor walkway suspended from the hillside. We didn't do the Columbia Icefield Adventure for several reasons: The cost is far too high. We had done it in 1980 when the cost was reasonable and the Columbia Glacier was larger and quicker to access. I have hiked on more impressive glaciers in Nepal for free. The Columbia Icefield skywalk is a touristy gimmick. You have to allow 2.5 to 3 hours for the tour but only 30 minutes is spent on the glacier. You can walk to the toe of the Columbia Glacier for free and it's only a 15 minute walk each way. If you want to walk to the toe of the glacier you turn off to the left once you reach the huge parking lot for the Columbia Icefield Adventure which is on the right hand side of the road to Jasper. Don't stop at the first parking area which is a long way from the glacier but drive to the parking area at the end of the road. From the last parking area it's a 15 minute walk up a slight hill to the toe of the Columbia Glacier. There are markers along the trail indicating the position of the glacier over the last 100 years. The Columbia Glacier has been receding for a long time. View of Cascade Mountain from the Canmore to Banff highway View from the highway after Lake Louise Bow Lake Peyto Lake Waterfowl Lakes Viewpoint Mistaya Canyon in Jasper National Park Columbia Icefield in Jasper National Park Tangle Creek Falls in Jasper National Park Sunwapta Falls in Jasper National Park Goats and Glaciers Viewpoint Athabasca Falls in Jasper National Park 13. Two Nights in Jasper Map of the area around Jasper Map of Jasper Accommodation in Jasper is in short supply and expensive. I booked 9 months ahead and paid $460 a night for a studio cabin at Pine Bungalows. We were very happy with the cabin apart from the price! The resort is well run and the cabins nicely furnished and in excellent condition. It wasn't rustic. I only booked 2 nights at Jasper as the terrible fire in July 2024 meant that the popular Maligne Canyon trail, Valley of 5 Lakes trail and the Mount Edith Cavell area were still closed. We went grocery shopping in Jasper the evening we arrived. The 2 main grocery stores are The Grocery Place (TGP) and Nesters Market. We used TGP as the hotel receptionist recommended it and it also has free parking. We bought a roast chicken and salads for our 2 nights in Jasper. It saved a lot of money and time. We were travelling in Canada for 5 weeks and we didn't feel like eating out every night. The weather forecast for our one full day in Jasper wasn't good. Unfortunately the weather forecast was correct but it only rained in the early morning and late afternoon. It meant that we could do everything we wanted but the scenery didn't look spectacular in the cloudy conditions. We drove to Maligne Lake in the morning and stopped off at Medicine Lake on the way. Both lakes are beautiful but they would have looked so much better in the sun. We walked along a popular trail on the eastern side of Maligne Lake to a viewpoint. The most beautiful part of Maligne Lake is at the southern end and is only accessible by boat. There are 1.5 hour boat cruises to Spirit Island that cost about $100. It would have been a waste of money for us in the cloudy weather. I also didn't like the idea of being in a covered boat. On the way back we stopped off at the Maligne Lookout which is just off the Maligne Lake Road. The Maligne Lookout used to overlook a beautiful forested valley but it's now desolate due to the 2024 fire. It's a good place to see the impact of the fire. We were fortunate to be there whilst an amazing tour guide explained about the fire. The scenic Edith Lake and Lake Annette are close to the Maligne Lookout and make a good detour. There is a 2.7 kilometres paved trail around Lake Annette and a longer unpaved trail around Edith Lake. There were very few other people when we went. We ended the day by driving over to Patricia Lake and Pyramid Lake which are very close to each other. Pyramid Lake is on the itinerary of tour groups who cross the wooden bridge to the small island on the lake. We also walked over to the island but there is little to be gained by doing so. The best views are from the parking area along the lakeside road. It started to rain at Pyramid Lake and the lake didn't look very special in those conditions. We returned the next morning in the sun and it made a big difference with the mountains reflected in the lake. Patricia Lake was also very beautiful and it's worth driving to the beach. Medicine Lake is next to the Maligne Lake Road Maligne Lake in Jasper National Park Maligne Lake cruise boat View of burnt forest from Maligne Lookout Lake Annette in Jasper Edith Lake in Jasper Pyramid Lake in Jasper Beach at Patricia Lake, Jasper 14. Drive from Jasper to Field along the Icefields Parkway In the morning, after visiting Pyramid and Patricia Lakes for a second time, we left Jasper and drove back along the Icefield Parkway. The weather was excellent and we enjoyed seeing the fantastic scenery surrounding the Icefield Parkway from another direction. We had visited the main sights that we had wanted to see on the drive to Jasper. We stopped off at a few viewpoints to enjoy the scenery and have a break from driving. The Weeping Wall wasn't very impressive and isn't worth stopping for. If Lani hadn't been suffering from plantar fasciitis we would done the 4 hour Wilcox Pass trail which seems to be the best hike off the Icefields Parkway. The Parker Ridge trail is a shorter option and takes about 2 hours. We checked in to the Truffle Pigs Lodge at Field and were happy with our room. The only restaurant in Field is at the lodge and it's very popular with people waiting outside for tables. We had a good meal at the restaurant in the evening. Stutfield Glacier Viewpoint in Jasper National Park Viewpoint south of Tangle Falls The Weeping Wall 15. Four Nights in Field, British Columbia We stayed in the small town of Field to visit Moraine Lake, Lake Louise, Yoho National Park and the Bow Valley Parkway. Getting to Moraine Lake, Lake Louise and Lake O'Hara Advance planning is very important when visiting Moraine Lake, Lake Louise and Lake O'Hara in Yoho National Park as access is restricted due to their popularity. Visitors are no longer permitted to drive to Moraine Lake. Visitors must either book a Parks Canada shuttle bus in advance for $8 (with discounts for over 65's and children), plus an admin fee of $3.50, or pay about $70 for a private bus service. The private bus service may be cheaper if booked online. Visitors can drive to Lake Louise but the car park becomes full by 06.30 in the peak summer months and costs $37 for the day! I assume most of these early visitors come for the Lake Agness and Plain of 6 Glaciers hikes. In the afternoon parking becomes available once hikers have departed. The cheapest way to visit Lake Louise is by booking in advance a Parks Canada shuttle which costs $8 plus a $3.50 admin fee (with discounts for over 65's and children). A private bus service costs $55 but may be a bit cheaper if booked online. Parks Canada's shuttle buses to Lake Louise and Moraine Lake depart from the free park and ride at the Lake Louise Ski Resort. It's a huge parking lot and capacity isn't an issue. The expensive private buses also leave from the Ski Resort. At the Lake Louise Ski Resort proof of the reservation has to be presented at the Parks Canada booth. They issue a ticket (see below) to be shown to the bus driver. The ticket doesn't state whether the destination is Lake Louise or Moraine Lake. Therefore the system could be manipulated and a shuttle bus taken to either lake. It isn't necessary to buy separate Parks Canada shuttle bus tickets to Lake Louise and Moraine Lake when visiting both lakes on the same day. After visiting the lake specified on the Parks Canada reservation there are 2 options: a shuttle bus back to the Park and Ride or a shuttle bus to the other lake. After visiting the second lake the shuttle bus to the Park and Ride can be taken. Reservations for the Parks Canada shuttles are for 1 hour departure time slots from the Park and Ride. Any shuttle bus can be taken back to the Park and Ride or the other lake. The ticket must be presented to the driver. There isn't so much flexibility with the private buses as the return time must be booked when purchasing tickets. In 2026 the shuttle buses for Lake Louise and Lake Moraine can be reserved from 08.00 Mountain Daylight Time (MDT) on 15th April 2026. It's advisable to create a Parks Canada account well beforehand and to gain an understanding of how the reservation process works. We flew to Madeira on the 16th April 2025 (the day reservations opened) and couldn't make reservations until the evening. The very earliest departure times had been taken but there was still plenty of space for departures from 09.00. For early departures times log in before 08.00 MDT on the day the reservation process begins. Parks Canada releases additional tickets 2 days before each departure day for the Lake Louise and Moraine Lake shuttles. I logged in before 08.00 MDT and at exactly 08.00 tried to purchase tickets. The site churned and after refreshing the page the morning tickets had been taken. I managed to buy tickets for the early afternoon. Lake O' Hara in Yoho National Park can only be accessed by a Parks Canada shuttle. The only chance of getting to Lake O' Hara is by taking part in a random draw between March 2nd and 23rd. However, shuttle tickets are very hard to obtain as Parks Canada only allows 3,000 day use visitors at Lake O'Hara for the entire summer season. Each application for the Lake O'Hara's random draw costs $10 and up to 6 different times/dates can be entered on each application. I completed 2 application forms and wasn't successful. Moraine Lake in Banff National Park It's around a half hour drive from the Park and Ride to Moraine Lake. Unfortunately very little mountain scenery can be seen due to all the trees. The Rockpile is the best viewpoint at Moraine Lake and the short trail up to the top is incredibly crowded as a result. Every one wants to walk to the top even if they are hardly capable of doing so. I dislike crowded viewpoints but the view from the Rockpile is worth it. We only walked along the Lakeshore Trail due to Lani's plantar fasciitis. The very first section was a bit busy but the number of people soon thinned out. The trail goes through forest but has good views of the lake and mountains. The hike is about 1.8 kilometres each way. The best hike at Moraine Lake is through Larch Valley to Sentinel Pass. Larch Valley is stunning in late September when the larches turn golden but it's also busy. The Sentinel Pass trail is 11 kilometres long and the hike takes about 5 hours. Rich visitors can rent a canoe for $160 per hour plus taxes! I was surprised at how many people do this. View of Moraine Lake from the Rockpile The Rockpile at Moraine Lake Line up of people on the Rockpile! Lake Louise in Banff National Park As it was my birthday I went to Lake Louise to do the Plain of 6 Glaciers hike by myself. The first section of the trail follows the northern shoreline of Lake Louise and there were excellent views. After that the trail ascended to the Plain of 6 Glaciers teahouse. There were other people on the trail but it wasn't too busy. The official trail terminates at the Plain of 6 Glaciers tea house but there is a good unmaintained trail for another half an hour past the tea house. I continued on the trail and after a while the trail is on glacial moraine with open views. I ate my packed lunch at the end of the trail. On the way back I decided to take the Highline trail to Lake Agness rather than returning the same way. There were very few hikers on the highline trail. Initially the trail was through open terrain but it became forested. After a while a steep trail turned off to the Big Beehive. I took the forested trail up to the Big Beehive and it was a relentless steep slog up with few views. I expected there to be a small viewpoint at the top but there was a large fairly open area with fantastic views down to Lake Louise and the Chateau Lake Louise. It was definitely worth the steep hike up. From the Big Beehive I descended steeply to Lake Agness. It's a beautiful trail and surprisingly there were virtually no other hikers. I think most people hike to Lake Agness and the Big Beehive in the morning and it was 14.30 when I descended. There is a popular tea house at Lake Agness and there were quite a few people there. After that the trail wasn't crowded but it was more forested than the trail from the Big Beehive to Lake Agness. Mirror Lake is passed on the descent and there is an excellent view of the Big Beehive. I had thought the Lake Agness hike would be too busy and forested for my liking. Neither were an issue and I really enjoyed the circular hike to the Plain of 6 Glaciers and Lake Agness. The hike took 5.5 hours. See my blog on the Plain of 6 Glaciers & Lake Agness Hike for further information about this hike. Map of Plain of 6 Glaciers & Lake Agness Hike Lake Louise from the Chateau Lake Louise Lake Louise with the Chateau Lake Louise in the background Trail to the Plain of 6 Glaciers View of Lake Louise from the Plain of 6 Glaciers Trail The Plain of the 6 Glaciers Tea House The final ridge to the Plain of 6 Glaciers Viewpoint Highline Trail from Plain of 6 Glaciers to the Big Beehive View of Lake Louise from the Big Beehive Descent from the Big Beehive to Lake Agness Lake Agness Lake Agness Tea House Yoho National Park Map of Yoho National Park Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park Emerald Lake is the highlight of Yoho National Park and it's popular as a result. It's reached by turning off Highway 1 onto Emerald Lake Road. The Natural Bridge rock formations on the Kicking Horse River are reached shortly after the turn off. It was worth the quick stop to see the Natural Bridge. The car park at Emerald Lake isn't large and it was full when we arrived just before 10.00 a.m. There were still plenty of parking spaces along the road though. There was a queue of people waiting for the canoe rental office to open at 10.00. Canoe rentals cost $100 an hour which is cheap compared to the $160 an hour charged at Moraine Lake! It's still far too expensive for us. We did the 5 kilometre scenic walk around Emerald Lake. Most people walk clockwise as the trail on the west side of the lake is maintained. We went anti clockwise and the trail on the eastern side initially runs through Emerald Lake Lodge. The trail on the east side of the lake can be muddy but in September it was fine. Some board walks were being constructed along the worst sections. The trail on the east side goes through forest but there were plenty of views of Emerald Lake and the surrounding mountains. The northern end of the lake is very open and there are beautiful views and some benches to rest on. Takakkaw Falls in Yoho National Park Takakkaw Falls is reached by driving along Yoho Valley Road. There are a few very tight hair pin bends along this road. They aren't a problem for cars but vehicles over 7 metres long must reverse down one section! Shortly after turning onto the Yoho Valley Road there is a viewpoint of the Upper Spiral Tunnel. We were fortunate to see a long CP Rail freight train passing through the spiral tunnel and saw both ends of the train on either side of the tunnel. It was a distant view of the train and unfortunately I didn't have a good telephoto lens for a photo. The trains are infrequent and you have to be lucky to see one. I was particularly pleased to see it as I used to work for Canadian Pacific. Shortly after the Upper Spiral Viewpoint there is a car park for the Meeting of the Waters Confluence. This is where the Yoho and Kicking Horse rivers meet but there is very little to see and it isn't worth stopping. There's a large car park at Takakkaw Falls and there was plenty of space when we visited in mid September. It's a 10 minute walk from the car park to the base of the spectacular waterfalls. The Takakkaw Falls are the second highest waterfalls in Canada. The Takakkaw Falls car park is the trailhead for the Iceline Trail which is the best hike in Yoho National Park. It can either be done as a 20 kilometre circular hike or a 14 kilometre there and back hike. The hike up and down is through forest but the middle section of the hike is through spectacular alpine scenery. Lower Spiral Tunnel Viewpoint in Yoho National Park The Lower Spiral Tunnel viewpoint is just off Highway 1 between Lake Louise and Field. There's a large car park and many interesting information boards. We stopped 4 times but never saw a train passing through the tunnel. Unfortunately trees around the tunnel block most of the view of the trains. Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park View on Walk around Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park Takakkaw Falls in Yoho National Park Natural Bridge in Yoho National Park Bow Valley Parkway Map of the Bow Valley Parkway The Bow Valley Parkway is a road between from Banff to Lake Louise. It's a quieter and slower option to Highway 1 which runs parallel along the other side of the Bow River. The Bow Valley Parkway between Banff and Johnston Canyon is closed to motorised transport during May, June and September. During these months the remaining section of the Bow Valley Parkway can only be accessed from Castle Junction and Lake Louise. The main attraction on the Bow Valley Parkway is Johnston Canyon. We didn't visit it as the reviews revealed that Johnston Canyon would be extremely crowded and the parking difficult. It's just the sort of experience that we dislike. Some reviews recommend going very early in the morning to avoid the crowds. A very early start didn't appeal to us and it's likely that Johnston Canyon would be crowded on the way back to the car park. Other reviews suggest going at the end of the day. We drove southwards along the Bow Valley Parkway from Lake Louise and returned the same way when we reached Johnston Canyon. We enjoyed the drive and stopped off at Morant's Curve, Storm Mountain Viewpoint and Castle Mountain Internment Camp. There's a small car park on the other side of the road by Morant's Curve. We waited for a CP Rail train to arrive and a few other people were doing the same. We gave up waiting after 20 minutes but stopped again on our way back. We were lucky and a train came past. Our next stop was at Storm Mountain Viewpoint. There are excellent view of the spectacular Castle Mountain and the Bow River with the CP Rail track running along it. We were fortunate that a train passed soon after we arrived and I thought the view was better than at Morant's Curve. On the way back we quickly stopped at the site of the Castle Mountain Internment Camp. This is where over 8,500 people were detained during World War 1 as they originated from countries at war with Canada. There isn't much to see except an interesting information board. CP Rail train at Morant's Curve Castle Mountain from Castle Mountain Viewpoint Storm Mountain Viewpoint on the Bow Valley Parkway 16. Drive from Field to Salmon Arm The drive from Field to Salmon Arm takes about 3.5 hours without stopping. The journey took us 9 hours as we visited Wapta Falls and Mount Revelstoke National Park on the way. Our first stop was Wapta Falls in the western section of Yoho National Park. Wapta Falls isn't signposted when driving westwards on Highway 1 which might be because it's dangerous to cross the highway. We went sailing past the turn off as I had entered "Wapta Falls" in Google Maps. It didn't take us to Wapta Falls but to Wapta Falls Campsite! This is several kilometres past the correct turnoff from Highway 1 and then along several kilometres of dirt road to Wapta Falls Campsite. There was nothing there! I could see from the map that the Wapta Falls car park was on the other side of the river and it would mean driving back. I entered "Wapta Falls Main Trail" on Google maps and it took us the correct way. We wasted at least 30 minutes due to this mistake. It was a good road to Wapta Falls car park and there were parking spaces available. In peak season parking can be difficult. From the car park it's a 2.2 kilometre hike through the forest to Wapta Falls. There are 3 viewpoints above Wapta Falls and it's worth continuing to the last one. The third viewpoint involves a bit of descent but it isn't much. Some people hike all the way down to the river and then right up to Wapta Falls. The spray near the falls is tremendous and it's advisable to wear a waterproof. Glacier National Park is an hour's drive from Wapta Falls. There are a number of short trails off the highway but after reading reviews we didn't do any of them due to lack of views and poor maintenance. These trails are Hemlock Grove, Rock Garden, Bear Creek, Skunk Cabbage and Giant Cedars. We stopped at Rogers Pass to have a picnic lunch and use their facilities. We couldn't visit the Discovery Centre as it was being renovated. Mount Revelstoke National Park is west of Glacier National Park. We drove 26 kilometres up the Meadows in the Sky Parkway. It ascends 1,365 metres through forest to a car park below the summit (1,835 metres). There are several viewpoints on the way but unfortunately the visibility was poor due to smoke from forest fires. From the car park it's a 1 kilometre walk to the summit area. There used to be a shuttle but it no longer operates. There are several short walks at the summit and the best walk is the Fire Tower trail. None of these short trails are worth the 35 minute drive up and the walk to the summit. I only recommend driving up the Meadows in the Sky Parkway for the long hike to Eva Lake, Miller Lake and Jade Lake. We reached Salmon Arm at 18.00 and checked into the new and reasonably priced Fairfield by Marriot Inn. We then rushed to meet an old friend of Lani's for dinner. We went to the excellent Barley Station Brew Pub. Wapta Falls in Yoho National Park View from Rogers Pass Discovery Centre in Glacier National Park View from the top of Revelstoke National Park 17. Drive from Salmon Arm to Whistler We continued driving westwards on Highway 1 from Salmon Arm. Shortly after passing Kamloops we could have turned south on Highway 5. It's a fast route back to Vancouver. Instead we continued driving west on Highway 1 along Kamloops Lake to Cache Creek. There Highway 1 turns southwards to Vancouver. It's a scenic route that follows the Thompson River and goes through the Fraser Canyon. However, we had driven to Vancouver on the Highway 1 before and wanted to try a new route. We therefore continued south westwards to Whistler on Highway 99. The scenery was good but it was spoiled around Lillooet by scruffy Indian housing and abandoned vehicles. The traffic on Highway 99 was much lighter than on Highway 1 which made driving more enjoyable. We stopped off at several viewpoints on the way from Salmon Arm to Whistler and had a picnic lunch at Marble Canyon Provincial Park. Half an hour before reaching Whistler we stopped at the impressive Nairn Falls. It's a 1.5 kilometre walk from the car park to Nairn Falls. It began raining soon after we left Nairn Falls. We did some grocery shopping at The Grocery Store in Whistler before checking into our 1 bedroom apartment at Horstman House. The apartment was excellent, and wasn't expensive, but the free parking space was very tight for a SUV. Kamloops Lake The Fraser river in the Marble Canyon near Lillooet Seton Lake near Lillooet Marble Canyon Provincial Park Nairn Falls 18. Two Nights in Whistler The most popular activity at Whistler is taking the gondola up Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains. The Peak 2 Peak gondola connects the upper stations of the Whistler and Blackcomb gondolas and spans 4.4 kilometres. The Peak Express chairlift goes from the upper station of Whistler's gondola to the top of Whistler Mountain (2,181 metres). This saves a one hour hike up and provides access to the Cloudraker Skybridge. This is a 130 metre bridge between Whistler Peak and West Ridge. I discovered that after Labour day only the Blackcomb and Peak 2 Peak gondolas were open and even these gondolas stopped operating after 21st September. The full price of $100 was being charged even though the Peak Express chairlift to the Cloudraker Skybridge was closed. I had intended to take the gondola and chairlift to the top of Whistler Mountain and hike the popular High Note Trail. This hike takes about 4 hours. Unfortunately the weather was bad in the morning. By the time the weather had cleared there wasn't enough time to do the hike. The Peak Express chairlift was closed and an extra 2 hours of walking would have been necessary. In the afternoon we walked around the attractive centre of Whistler and visited a couple of attractive lakes at Whistler. Lost Lake is the nearest to the centre of Whistler. In summer the water temperature is warm enough for swimming. Green Lake is a bit further north of Whistler. It's larger and the water isn't as warm as it's glacier fed. Gondolas on Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains Lost Lake in Whistler Green Lake near Whistler 19. Drive - Whistler to Vancouver along the Sea to Sky Highway I wasn't that impressed with the scenery on the Sea to Sky Highway but it didn't help that it was overcast. Unfortunately trees block a lot of the views and this is a common problem in British Columbia. It only takes 1.5 hours to drive from Whistler to downtown Vancouver on the Sea to Sky Highway. However, there are a few places worth visiting on the way and the drive could take most of the day. We had visited the interesting Britannia Mine a few years ago so we didn't visit it again. We stopped off at Brandywine Falls, Shannon Falls, Porteau Cove Provincial Park and Whytecliffe Park. It's a short walk to both Brandywine Falls and Shannon Falls. We had lunch at Porteau Cove Provincial Park which is just off the highway. There are proper toilets and picnic benches there. Our final stop before downtown Vancouver was Whytecliffe Park in West Vancouver. There is just one good viewpoint and a large picnic area at Whytecliffe Park. Parking has to be paid for. It isn't a worthwhile stop for most visitors. Shannon Falls Porteau Provincial Park Whytcliife Park in West Vancouver 20. Links to my other Blogs on Canada Vancouver Travel Guide Plain of 6 Glaciers & Lake Agness Hike Kootenay National Park Travel Guide Yoho National Park Travel Guide The Icefields Parkway Drive

I did the Makalu Base Camp trek in mid November 2022 with a porter/guide. This blog provides the necessary information to enable you to plan this trek. The topics covered include when to go, how to get there, itineraries, permits, day hikes, tea houses etc. This blog has been updated with information from 2024 and 2025 trip reports. I have also done blogs on several other treks in Nepal. Click here to see them. Contents The Weather in the Makalu Region When to do the Makalu Base Camp Trek Reaching the Trail Head for the Makalu Base Camp Trek Itinerary for the Makalu Base Camp Trek Day Hikes from Makalu Base Camp Trek Other Hikes on the Makalu Base Camp Trek Permits Guides & Trekking Agencies Tea Houses on the Makalu Base Camp Trek Things to Consider Taking on the Trek Link to my other treks in Nepal 1. The Weather in the Makalu Region I normally trek in May and early June as I don't like busy trails and Lani (my wife) doesn't like the cold. However, I started the Makalu Base Camp trek on 12 November 2022, when clear skies are more or less guaranteed. Lani didn't join me on the trek. I was therefore dismayed when I had bad weather for 3 days between Khongma and Langmale Kharka. It wasn't pleasant as the tea houses on the Makalu Base Camp trek are very basic, cold and uncomfortable. The weather was better on the way back but there was still a day of low cloud. Fortunately the weather between Langmale Kharka and Makalu Base Camp was excellent. When I returned to Kathmandu I met up with someone I knew and told him about the weather. He was surprised as he had excellent weather doing the Everest 3 passes trek during the same period. The Khumbu area isn't that far from the Makalu Base Camp. On my return to the U.K. I did more research on the Makalu Base Camp trek. I discovered that the area between Tashigaon and Yangle Kharka has a micro climate with more moisture than most other areas in the Himalayas. Warm and humid air rises from the Arun Valley and condenses on the mountains in the form of rain or snow. Other trekkers' blogs confirmed that there is often bad weather in the middle section of the Makalu Base Camp trek. Fortunately the area around Langmale Kharka and Makalu Base Camp isn't affected by this micro climate and has a normal Himalayan climate. 2. When to do the Makalu Base Camp Trek The 3 main factors to take into account when doing the Makalu Base Camp trek are the weather, the number of trekkers and whether the tea houses higher up are open. 2.1 Number of Trekkers The official tourism statistics for 2022 show that the numbers of foreign visitors starting the Makalu Base Camp trek by month were: January 2 February 15 March 393 April 837 May 73 June 11 July 5 August 18 September 262 October 339 November 102 December 0 These figures don't include porters, guides and Nepali trekkers. In 2025 there were 577 Nepali trekkers. March and April are the busiest months on the trail to Makalu Base Camp as it is the start of the climbing season for Mount Makalu. May would also be busy with the climbers descending. October is the busiest month for trekking in Nepal but there are far fewer climbers. Many of the trekkers reflected in October's figures would have still been on the Makalu Base Camp trail in early November. A trekker who started the Makalu Base Camp trek on 21st October 2024 reported that there were a lot of other trekkers on the trail. Her itinerary coincided with 2 other groups and there were at least 21 trekkers and their staff at each overnight stop. The tea houses on the Makalu Base Camp trek cannot adequately accommodate such numbers. I would hate to stay in such crowded conditions. Many Nepalese trek during the festivals of Dashain and Diwali (Tihar). The timing of these festivals is governed by the lunar calendar but they take place in October and November. The Nepalese often seem to take a holiday after Tihar and there could still be many Nepali trekkers on the trail 7 to 10 days after the end of Tihar. 2.2 The Weather The monsoon season is slightly longer in the Makalu region as the monsoon enters Nepal from the east and withdraws from the west to east. This means that in the Makalu region the monsoon can commence about 5 days earlier than in Kathmandu and last 5 days longer. My blog on the Everest Base Camp trek details the monsoon start and finish dates from 2002 to 2023. Over the last couple of decades the monsoon has been starting around the 12th June and ending around the 15th October. I don't recommend trekking in the monsoon as you wouldn't have good mountain views and there would be leeches. Every 2 or 3 years Nepal is impacted by cyclones originating in the Bay of Bengal. This can spoil a trek and be dangerous for trekkers. The cyclones mainly occur in May and October. Until last year I mainly trekked during May and early June in Nepal. The weather in May and early June isn't as dependable as in April, late October and November but it is warmer. In 2022 and 2023 I trekked in October, November and early December. The sky is certainly much clearer at this time of year and the cold didn't bother me too much. For me the worst time for feeling the cold is in the early morning but it wasn't an issue the rest of the time. 2.3 Tea House Closure Dates The tea houses at Makalu Base Camp close before the end of November. In 2022 the owner of the tea house at Langmale Karkha said that he would reopen his tea house at Makalu Base Camp for any trekkers wanting to go there in late November. He intended to shut his tea house at Langmale Kharka on 1st December. These dates aren't fixed. When I flew back to Kathmandu on 27th November 30 Spaniards arrived at Tumlingtar airport. They were going to trek up to Makalu Base Camp with 80 support staff (see Alex Tixikon's website ). I am sure all the tea houses stayed open for them. I pity any trekker who was there at the same time and expected to have the trail to themselves! 2.4 Conclusion on the Best Time to do the Makalu Base Camp Trek In my opinion the best time to start the Makalu Base Camp trek is in mid November. Normally it isn't busy and it wasn't when I trekked at that time of the year. The weather should be clear but cold at night. However, it would be best to return to Tashigaon by 30th November as the tea houses higher up might close after that. Many groups fly to Nepal on a Friday or Saturday and after 1 or 2 nights in Kathmandu fly to Tumlingtar to commence the Makalu Base Camp trek. Consequently there is a greater chance of avoiding groups by flying to Tumlingtar between Tuesday and Saturday. This helps to avoid groups on the way up to Makalu Base Camp but not on their way back. 3. Reaching the Trail Head for the Makalu Base Camp Trek The Road from Tumlingtar Airport to the Trail Head at Num 3.1 Kathmandu to Khandbari Most trekkers fly from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar in eastern Nepal. Buddha Air has one flight a day that leaves Kathmandu in the morning between 09.00 and 10.00. The flight costs $155 each way. The flights are often delayed by 1 or 2 hours due to morning mist and cloud. The best seats for mountain views are at the front and on the left hand side when flying to Tumlingtar. It is approximately a 40 minute journey from Tumlingtar to Khandbari on a steep tarred road. The agency I used arranged a Tuk Tuk for this journey and it is probably the cheapest option. It is possible to take a very long 22 hour bus ride from Kathmandu to Khandbari and the fare was R2,700 ($20) in November 2022. View on the flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar 3.2 Khandbari to Num The road from Khandbari to Num is in reasonable condition for about the first 30 minutes. After that it is a very rough and uncomfortable 3 to 4 hour journey, even if you are in a private jeep. There isn't any advantage in going onto Num the day you fly to Tumlingtar. Most trekkers usually spend the second night in Seduwa regardless of whether the first night is in Khandbari or Num. I recommend spending the first night in Khandbari. The accommodation is better in Khandbari than Num but still not great. Another factor to take into account is that if you stay at Khandbari the jeep can take you the next day about a half hour drive past Num to where the road intersects the Makalu Base Camp trail. This reduces the hiking time to Seduwa by a couple of hours and avoids 475 metres of descent. There are shared jeeps between Khandabari and Num. My trekking agency arranged a private jeep and it cost $100. November 2025 Update A trekking group reported that there was now a "road" from Num to Seduwa. The trekking agency that I used have confirmed this and that the drive from Khandbari to Seduwa  would take 5 to 6 hours. The dirt track from Num to Seduwa is steep and dangerous in places. It seems that most foreign trekkers still walk to Seduwa. However, if you are short of time this would be a way of shortening the trek. It's likely only to be a viable option when the weather has been dry for some time. 4. Itinerary for the Makalu Base Camp Trek 4.1 Map Showing the Route of the Makalu Base CampTrek Route of the Makalu Base Camp Trek 4.2 The Ascent to Makalu Base Camp The itinerary for the ascent to Makalu Base Camp trek depends on how well you acclimatise to the altitude. All the trekkers I met hiked to Makalu Base Camp without having to spend more than 1 night at each location. However, some trekkers may need to spend extra nights at Khongma and Langmale Kharka. I wouldn't relish an extra night at Khongma as the 2 tea houses there are very basic. Also the weather is often bad at Khongma and there aren't any good day hikes. There is more to do at Langmale Kharka if the weather is fine. It is a cold place to stay in bad weather as they don't light the fire until the late afternoon. I was acclimatised before starting the trek but met up with a German trekker who wasn't. He didn't have a problem with the altitude until he reached Makalu Base Camp. He had a headache soon after arriving there. The next day we hiked up to a 5,738 metre high viewpoint and he got a bad headache during the descent. The trail to Langmale Kharka has stone steps and paths most of the way. An experienced trekker described it as relentless and taxing on the knees. This trail is also used for the descent! 4.3 The Descent from Makalu Base Camp The descent from Makalu Base Camp can be done faster than my proposed itinerary as there are no altitude restraints. There are a few very basic tea houses between the main stops on the Makalu Base Camp trek that support a quicker descent. These tea houses are at: Pematang which is between Yangle Kharka and Dobato. The tea house is just before the large landslide. Shipton La between Dobato and Khongma. Danda Kharka between Khongma and Tashigaon. 4.4 Proposed Itinerary Day 1 - Kathmandu to Khandbari See section 3 of this blog for details. Day 2 - Khandbari to Seduwa (1,530 metres) See section 3 of this blog for details of how to get to the trail head. It takes approximately 3 hours to hike from the trail head below Num to Seduwa. The first section is a steep 350 metre descent to a suspension bridge crossing the River Arun. After that there is a steep 900 metre ascent to Seduwa! It would take another 2 hours to hike down from Num to where the trail head intersects the road. My Hotel in Khandbari A Street in Khandbari My Porter/Guide The Jeep and Driver The Bad Road Trucks stuck on the road The Start of the Makalu Base Camp Trek Suspension Bridge crossing the Arun Nadi River The Ascent to Seduwa View near Seduwa Day 3 - Seduwa to Tashigaon (2,167 metres) or Danda Kharka (2,962 metres) The trail ascends 630 metres to Tashigaon, passing through farm land, small villages and cardamom plantations. It took 4 hours. There are 2 basic tea houses at Tashigaon and they both have good campsites. A good option, if you are fit, would be to hike a further 3 hours to the tea house at Danda Kharka (2,962 metres). A trekker in October 2024 said that the tea house at Danda Kharka was the second best of the trek. She also said that the tea houses on the Makalu Base Camp trek were very basic! Danda Kharka is at a higher altitude and would be better for acclimatisation than Tashigaon. You should check at Tashigaon that the tea house at Danda Kharka is open. The first section of the trail from Seduwa to Tashigaon A traditional house with bee hives The trail up to Tashigaon A Mani Wall Day 4 - Tashigaon to Khongma (3,602 metres) The trail ascends 1,430 metres steeply through forest and it takes 5.5 hours. On the way there is a tea house at Danda Kharka which serves food and drinks. There are 2 basic tea houses at Khongma and the second one is better. The Trail after Tashigaon The Steep Ascent up to Kongma Close to Kongma - The Weather Changed Day 5 - Khongma to Dobato (3,860 metres) If you are feeling the effects from the altitude you should spend another night at Khongma before proceeding. The hike is strenuous as it crosses 4 passes and Shipton La is at an altitude of 4,216 metres. There is a tea house with rooms at Shipton La. The weather can be bad on this section of the Makalu Base Camp trek and as a result there is often snow and ice on the ground. The hike takes about 5 hours. Many websites incorrectly state that the altitude of Dobato is between 3,300 and 3,400 metres. My Garmin Inreach showed that the tea house is at an altitude of 3,860 metres. The Trail over the Shipton La Imo and I briefly meet on the trail Day 6 - Dobato to Yangle Kharka (3,634 metres) The weather tends to be bad on this part of the Makalu Base Camp trek as well. There is often snow and ice on the first section of the trail and it descends 400 metres steeply to the River Barun. When the trail is icy it takes about 1.5 hours to reach the river. The trail follows the River Barun and soon reaches a large landslide area. It is an easy traverse that takes about half an hour. There is a risk of falling stones from the overhanging cliffs and I was almost hit by some. After the landslide there is a basic tea house at Pematang. The trail then crosses the River Barun and continues to Yangle Kharka. The entire hike takes around 6 hours. The Landslide Zone between Dobato & Pemathang The Landslide Zone between Dobato & Pemathang The Landslide Zone between Dobato & Pemathang The Tea House at Pemathang Scenery between Pemathang and Yangle Kharka Day 7 - Yangle Kharka to Langmale Kharka (4,452 metres) If you are going to do the day hike to the Shiva Dhara it is best to do it on the way up to Makalu Base Camp to aid acclimatisation. It is a scenic 3.5 hour walk from Yangle Kharka to Langmale Kharka. There is apparently a tea house on the way at Tadosa but I can't remember seeing it. Some trekkers spend the night there for acclimatisation as Tadosa is at an altitude of 3,964 metres. There is only 1 tea house at Yangle Kharkha. It's spread over 2 buildings and has about 20 rooms. The Temple at Yangle Kharka Day 8 - Langmale Kharka to Makalu Base Camp (4,860 metres) Some trekkers may need to spend 2 nights at Langmale Kharka due to the altitude. If so there is a viewpoint above Langmale Kharka but there isn't a trail. You could also visit Lower Barun Lake from Langmale Kharka. The mountain scenery on this section of the trail to Makalu Base Camp is fantastic. I took 5.5 hours to reach Makalu Base Camp but I spent quite a bit of time at both ends of the beautiful Lower Barun Lake. As I have mentioned in section 6 the lake could be visited instead on the descent if you are suffering from the altitude. It doesn't take long to reach both ends of the lake and it shouldn't be missed. I stayed at the Yak Hotel and Lodge at Makalu Base Camp as I thought it was the only tea house there. I have since read that there are 3 other tea houses but the one I stayed at was the best. Sunrise at Langmale Kharka Scenery near Langmale Kharka Day 9 & 10 - Makalu Base Camp Day Hikes Some trekkers rush back down from Makalu Base Camp the next day. It is a shame to do that after all the effort of getting there without fully enjoying the incredible mountain scenery. I recommend that a minimum of 2 nights should be spent at Makalu Base Camp and 3 nights would be better. Although the bedrooms at the Yak Hotel & Lodge are basic the dining room is quite pleasant. There are comfortable plastic chairs and the dining room is very light because of all the windows. The hike to the viewpoint to the north east of Makalu Base Camp shouldn't be missed. See the day hike section for further details on the hike to the 5,300 metre lower viewpoint and the 5,735 metre higher viewpoint . Trekkers are likely to suffer from the altitude if they ascend to the upper viewpoint on the day after arriving at Makalu Base Camp. It would therefore be better to hike to Swiss Base Camp on the first full day at Makalu Base Camp and to the upper viewpoint the next day. If you don't have enough time at Makalu Base Camp I would recommend at least doing the following: Hike to the lower viewpoint at 5,300 metres. Visit Barun Nadi (lake) which is only a 10 minute walk from Makalu Base Camp. Hike the first easy section of the trail to Swiss Base Camp until it degenerates into a field of rocks and boulders. Day 11 - Makalu Base Camp to Yangle Kharka I took 5 hours and 45 minutes to hike from Makalu Base Camp to Yangle Kharka. That excluded the time for lunch at Langmale Kharka. It would be possible to hike further. There is a very basic tea at Pematang and it probably would take another 1.5 hours to reach there. Day 12 - Yangle Kharka to Dobato This is about a 5.5 hour hike and the last section up to Dobato is very steep. It would be another 2 to 2.5 hours to the tea house at Shipton La. Approaching the Landslide View on the Final Steep Climb to Dobato Day 13 - Dobato to Khongma This is about a 5 hour hike. A View from the lookout tower on the Khongma La A View from the lookout tower on the Khongma La Day 14 - Khongma to Seduwa The section from Khongma to Tashigaon descends 1,430 metres steeply through forest and it is tough on the knees. The next section from Tashigaon to Seduwa is easier and more scenic. It is approximately a 6.5 hour hike in total excluding stops. The Descent from Khongma to Tashigaon The Descent from Khongma to Tashigaon Tashigaon Tashigaon Ploughing a Field Cardamom Scenery between Tashigaon and Seduwa Day 15 - Seduwa to Khandbari It is a 2.5 hour hike from Seduwa to where the Makalu Base Camp trail intersects the road to Num. You should arrange to have a jeep meet you there. If you are taking a shared jeep from Num you would have to walk another 2 to 3 hours uphill to Num in hot weather. If you are taking the bus back to Kathmandu you can buy the ticket in Khandbari Scenery between Seduwa and Num A View on the Drive between Num & Khandbari Day 16 - Khandbari to Kathmandu Take a tuk tuk or taxi to Tumlingtar airport to await the arrival of the morning flight from Kathmandu. 5. Day Hikes from Makalu Base Camp Many trekkers don't spend long enough at Makalu Base Camp to properly enjoy the incredible mountain scenery. I recommend spending 3 nights there and the minimum should be 2 nights. There is enough to do at Makalu Base Camp to keep even the fittest and most active trekkers occupied during a 2 night stay. If you weren't acclimatised before starting the Makalu Base Camp trek it would be best to leave the hike to the upper 5,735 viewpoint to the last day. Routes of Day Hikes from Makalu Base Camp 5.1 Lower View Point East of Makalu Base Camp It takes about 1.5 hours to reach the plateau viewpoint which is at an altitude of around 5,300 metres. It is a steep climb up the hillside and we didn't follow a trail. There may be a trail but I just followed my guide. There are fantastic mountain views and it is worth walking around to the other side of the plateau. View from the 5,300 Metre Viewpoint above Makalu Base Camp View from the 5,300 Metre Viewpoint above Makalu Base Camp View from the 5,300 Metre Viewpoint above Makalu Base Camp 5.2 Upper View Point East of Makalu Base Camp I hiked up from the lower view point. It was a difficult 400 metre hike over rocks and boulders which took around 2 hours. It is a short scramble up to the viewpoint at the very top which is at an altitude of 5,738 metres. There was no snow or ice when I was there. It was cold and windy at the top but the views were superb. It is possible in the right conditions to continue up a ridge to a higher viewpoint which is probably at an altitude of around 5,900 metres. It was too dangerous when I was there due to the wind and ice. I went back down to Makalu Base Camp on the normal route and there was sort of a trail. There were not many rocks and boulders to cross and it was far more enjoyable and straight forward than the ascent. The 900 metre descent took about 2 hours. It would be far easier to ascend to the upper view point on the trail I descended on rather than going via the lower view point. The Climb to the Upper Viewpoint On Top of the 5,738 Metre Viewpoint A View from the 5,738 Metre Viewpoint above Makalu Base Camp A View from the 5,738 Metre Viewpoint above Makalu Base Camp A View from the 5,738 Metre Viewpoint above Makalu Base Camp A View from the 5,738 Metre Viewpoint above Makalu Base Camp 5.3 Swiss Base Camp Swiss Base Camp is to the west of Makalu Base Camp. I didn't believe my guide when he said there were 2 Swiss Base Camps but apparently there are. The first one is at an altitude of 5,150 metres and the next one is at an altitude of 5,183 metres. Initially it is a pleasant hike on a good trail along the Barun Glacier. Then there is just a mass of rocks and boulders. There are cairns but there isn't a defined trail. It isn't easy or pleasant hiking. I got to within 10 minutes of the first Swiss Base Camp and turned back at 5,130 metres. My guide was sick, my hip was hurting, the terrain was difficult and the views wouldn't have improved. It takes about 3 hours to go from Makalu Base Camp to the second Swiss Base Camp and then 2 hours to return. It is worth doing at least the first section of the hike to Swiss Base Camp. After that the views don't alter much and it is more about achieving the objective of reaching Swiss Base Camp. The trail continues from Swiss Base Camp to Sherpani Col High Camp but it is too far for a day hike and the terrain is difficult. The initial easy trail to Swiss Base Camp The later more difficult terrain to Swiss Base Camp The Mountain Scenery near Swiss Base Camp Mount Makalu 5.4 Barun Nadi Barun Nadi is a lake only 10 minutes from Makalu Base Camp. It is a good place to while away any spare time. Barun Nadi (lake) in front of Mount Makalu 6. Other Hikes on the Makalu Base Camp Trek 6.1 View Point above Langmale Kharka I didn't go to this viewpoint as the weather was bad. There is no defined trail and it is a matter of walking up the steep slope behind the lodge. It takes 2 hours to reach the summit which is at an altitude of 5,000 metres. There are excellent views of the mountains and Lower Barun Lake. The descent takes an hour. 6.2 Lower Barun Lake This stunning lake is just off the main Makalu Base Camp trail between Yangle Kharka and Langmale Kharka. There is a bridge on the left about 1.5 hours from Yangle Kharka. After crossing the bridge you climb up the lateral moraine and then down to the southern end of the lake. The View from the Southern End of Lower Barun Lake Me at the Southern End of Lower Barun Lake There is another bridge further along the Makalu Base Camp trail. You can climb to the top of the lateral moraine from there and get fantastic views at the northern end of Lower Barun Lake. Suk at the Northern End of Lower Barun Lake Looking southwards down the Lower Barun Lake It is worth seeing the views from both ends of Lower Barun Lake. It might be better to see Lower Barun Lake on the return from Makalu Base Camp if you aren't yet acclimatised to the altitude. Definitely don't skip it. 6.3 Shiva Dhara Shiva Dhara is a well known pilgrimage site for Hindus and Buddhists. It consists of 2 caves at an altitude of 4,310 metres and a waterfall passes through one of them. The caves are reached from Yangle Kharka which is at an altitude of 3,600 metres. The round trip takes about 6 hours. The Nepalese government has spent money improving the paths leading to the mountain. Unfortunately nothing has been done to improve the dangerous sections up the mountainside. There are metal stakes and cables to aid the climb up the rock face although they aren't in good repair. Like most foreigners I didn't do this hike due to safety concerns, particularly since it was icy when I was there. Although it looks dangerous I have seen videos of Nepalese families with young children doing the hike. My guide took an overweight Indian pilgrim up to Shiva Dhara and saved him from falling to his death. 7. Permits for the Makalu Base Camp Trek 2 permits are required for the Makalu Base Camp trek: Makalu Rural Municipality Permit - R2,000 ($15) Makalu Barun National Park - R3,000 ($23) They can be purchased at the National Park's office in Seduwa. I met a trekker who inadvertently didn't buy the permits and was fined. 8. Guides & Trekking Agencies You don't have to hire a guide, or use a trekking agency, to do the Makalu Base Camp trek. When the weather is good it is easy to follow the trail to Makalu Base Camp. It could be difficult, however, when there is a lot of fresh snow. There is often snow and ice in the middle section of the trek from Khongma to Dobato. There are thousands of trekking agencies in Kathmandu. I can recommend 2 agencies for this trek. The first agency is the only one based in the Makalu region. The second one is based in Kathmandu. 8.1 Makalu Arun Social Treks I used Makalu Arun Social Treks which is run by Tejanath Pokharel, a retired English teacher living in Khandbari. The agency is mentioned in the Lonely Planet guide book on Trekking in the Himalayas. They also have good Tripadvisor reviews . They use local guides and porters who know the Makalu Base Camp trek and the people running the tea houses extremely well. It also means that you don't have to pay to fly a guide from Kathmandu. I had a porter/guide who carried about 18 kilograms for me as I took a tent. I was very happy with the service that Tejanath provided and the trek went very well. I booked my own flights online with Buddha Air and Tejanath met me at Tumlington airport. He arranged a hotel in Khandbari and the jeep to and from the trail head for the Makalu Base Camp trek. The porter/guide paid for his own food and accommodation and I paid for mine. They do offer all inclusive packages. However, it is cheaper and better to pay for one's own food and accommodation. Tejanath & his wife who run Makalu Arun Social Treks 8.2 Enjoy Nepal Treks I used Enjoy Nepal Treks in late 2023 to do the Kanchenjunga, Langtang, Gosainkunda and Helambu treks. They have excellent Tripadvisor reviews and I was very satisfied with their service. They are a larger agency and can provide porter/guides who will carry up to 15 kilograms. They will carry a bit more if necessary. The owner of the agency is well organized, punctual and speaks English and German. They will obtain your airline tickets and provide a porter/guide for $30 a day. There is also a one off fee of $35 for his insurance. The guide will meet you at your hotel and fly with you to Tumlingtar. The client and guide have to organize the transport to the trail head and the client pays for it. 9. Tea Houses on the Makalu Base Camp Trek 9.1 Tea House Quality I have done many tea house treks in Nepal and I found that the tea houses on the Makalu Base Camp trek were the most basic and uncomfortable. This might be because the main tea houses are run by the same family so there is little competition. A person who did the Makalu Base Camp trek in October 2024 reported that the accommodation hadn't improved. The leader of a trek in November 2025 stated that " the accommodation is basic to say the least". Most of the dining rooms don't have comfortable seating and fires are only lit in the late afternoon. The seating is often just benches and without back support. The best dining room was at Makalu Base Camp as the dining room was large, bright and had plastic chairs. The worst dining room was at Yangle Yarkha as the benches were fixed along the wall and were too far from the fire. I sat on a table so I could be close to the fire which became very uncomfortable after a few hours. Unfortunately a lot of time is spent in the tea houses' dining rooms on the ascent to Makalu Base Camp. That's because the time spent trekking each day is quite short due to the issue of altitude acclimatisation. Also the weather in the middle section of the trek can be poor and not conducive to being outside. 9.2 Food at the Tea Houses I didn't see any menus at any of the tea houses although a 2019 blog mentioned there were menus at Langmale Kharka and Makalu Base Camp. It was therefore difficult to know what food was on offer. A November 2025 trip report mentioned that there was a menu at Makalu Base Camp but there weren't any menus at the other tea houses. It seems that only basic rice, noodle and pasta dishes are available. That wasn't a problem for me as I usually only eat local rice and noodle dishes when trekking. At Langmale Kharka they had potatoes which made a nice change. A November 2025 trip report indicated that this hasn't changed. I usually had oat porridge for breakfast but Tsampa porridge was also available. I tried the pancakes but they were like rubber. Someone said that they miss out one essential ingredient when making pancakes on the Makalu Base Camp trek. It's strange as the pancakes on the Kanchenjunga trek were great. It was frustrating that breakfast would often not be served at the agreed time. For example at Khongma it was meant to be served at 06.30 but it came at 07.15. When I stopped for lunch I had vegetable noodle soup. On other treks I have had more for lunch but for some reason I didn't on the Makalu Base Camp trek. 9.3 Internet There isn't any internet after Seduwa. 9.4 Location of Tea Houses There are Tea Houses at the following locations on the Makalu Base Camp trek: Seduwa (1,530 metres) Tashigaon (2,167 metres) Danda Kharka (2,962 metres) Khongma (3,602 metres) Shipton La (4,247 metres) Dobato (3,860 metres) Pematang (3,494 metres) Yangle Kharka (3,634 metres) Tadosa (3,964 metres) - I can't remember this tea house but it is mentioned in a blog. Langmale Kharka (4,452 metres) Makalu Base Camp (4,860 metres) 9.4 Pictures & Details of the Tea Houses I stayed at Tashigaon's Tea Houses There are 2 basic tea houses at Tashigaon. I am not sure of the name of the lower one where I stayed on the ascent. The building I slept in had a sign stating it was the Tashigaon Sherpa Buffer Zone Community Homestay. The dining room building had a sign saying it was the Makalu Barun Hotel and Lodge. This first tea house is in the centre of Tashigaon and has a large grassy camping area around it. It would be a pleasant place to sit in good weather. The bedrooms were small, old and basic. There were mice scratching around in the ceiling above me. The dining room is small and gloomy. The food was good and the lady running the tea house was very pleasant. The second tea house is a bit higher up and also has a large grassy campground. There are 3 large bedrooms with several beds in each. The dining room is large and quite nice. Since I stayed there they have added a small new building with 3 bedrooms. I think this tea house is called the Makalu Danfe Lodge. If I did the trek again, and wasn't acclimatised, I would hike on to Danda Kharka (2,962 metres) as it's at a better altitude for acclimatisation. A person who did the trek in October 2024 said that this was one of the better tea houses on the Makalu Base Camp trek. My bill at Tashigaon on the way up to Makalu Base Camp came to R2,150 ($16.50). Dal Bhat cost R450 ($3.50). On the way down from Makalu Base Camp I stayed at the upper tea house and I paid R1,850 ($14). November 2025 Update - Dal Bhat cost R600 and black tea R100. Makalu Barun Hotel and Lodge The lady running the lodge The Upper Tea House at Tashigaon My Bedroom at the Upper Tea House at Tashigaon on my return from Makalu Base Camp. My tent at the Upper Tea House at Tashigaon Khongma's Tea Houses There are 2 basic tea houses at Khongma. The Hotel View Point & Lodge is the first tea house when coming from Tashigaon. It is the more basic of the 2 houses. There is a building with a dining room, kitchen and some bedrooms. There is another building with about 8 bedrooms. The dining room is cold as the fire is in a small room off the main dining room. Noise travels easily in the bedrooms as the walls don't go all the way up to the ceiling. A mouse visited my room during the night. The next tea house is the Shiva View Hotel & Lodge. It is better but still far from being good! The dining room isn't comfortable or warm. There is a new building with several bedrooms and I slept there. It can be treacherous going down to the toilet when there is snow. I read a blog which said there were mice in the bedrooms of the old building. I paid R2,550 ($20) on the way up to Makalu Base Camp for my stay at the Shiva View Hotel. On the way to Kongma I stopped for lunch at Danda Kharka and had noodle soup R400 ($3) and coffee R200 ($1.50). On the way down from Makalu Base Camp I paid R1,600 ($12) at the Hotel View Point & Lodge. The room cost R400 ($3), dal Bhat cost R500 ($4) and noodle soup cost R200 ($1.50). November 2025 Update - Dal Bhat cost R600 and black tea R100. Shiva View Hotel & Lodge in Khongma The Dining Room of the Shiva View Hotel & Lodge in Khongma My Bedroom at the Shiva View Hotel & Lodge in Khongma The Hotel View Point & Lodge at Khongma The Building with the Bedrooms at Hotel View Point & Lodge at Khongma Dobato's Tea House There is 1 basic tea house at Dobato. There is a building with the kitchen, dining room and 5 bedrooms. There is only a sheet of corrugated iron separating the dining room from the bedroom area. As porters and guides often sleep in the dining room their noise can be heard clearly in the 2 bedrooms next to the dining room wall. The other 3 bedrooms would be quieter but they are smaller. There are also some bedrooms in a stone building which would probably be quieter. On my way down from Makalu Base Camp I stayed at this tea house for the second time. The snow on the steps to the dining room hadn't been cleared and had turned to ice. I fell badly and it took a month for my arm to fully recover. Be very careful when it is icy. On the way up my stay at Dobato cost R2,600 ($20). On the way to Dobato I had noodles and coffee at Shipton La for R600 ($4.50) and paid R2,300 ($17.50) for my stay at Dobato. November 2025 Update - Dal Bhat cost R800 and black tea R150. The Dining Room of the Tea House in Dobato My bedroom at the Tea House in Dobato. Pematang Tea House I didn't stay at Pematang. It is even more basic than the tea houses I stayed at! In November 2025 dal bhat cost R700 and black tea R100. Yangle Kharka's Tea House This basic tea house is in a very pleasant and scenic setting. I slept in a separate building with 3 bedrooms when I stayed there on the way up to Makalu Base Camp. This building is on the right in the photo. The main building has the kitchen, dining room and about 8 other bedrooms. They were "renovating" those bedrooms on my way up and I slept in 1 of them on the way down from Makalu Base Camp. I preferred the bedrooms in the separate building as they were quieter. The dining room isn't laid out well as the benches are too far from the fire and can't be moved closer. There is a television in the dining room and on the way down a lot of construction workers had their meals in the dining room and watched the television. I don't like television when trekking. My bill on the way up at Yangle Kharha was R2,000 ($15). Dal Bhat cost R500 ($4) and the room was also R500. I also paid R350 ($3) the previous day for a large bowl of vegetable noodles and a cup of hot tea at Pematang. My bill on the way down from Makalu Base Camp was R1,500 ($11.50). November 2025 Update - Dal bhat cost R800 and black tea R150. The Tea House at Yangle Kharka My bedroom in Yangle Kharka The Temple at Yangle Kharka Langmale Kharka's Tea House There are 6 bedrooms in a separate building which is on the left in the photo. There is another building with the kitchen and an unheated dining area. A third building has a dining room with a fire and perhaps some additional bedrooms. Be very wary of sitting in the very smoky kitchen. I sat for several hours in the freezing dining room to avoid the smoke. It was a good decision as my porter/guide sat in the kitchen and developed a terrible cough. The owner and his daughter were running the tea house. The owner also has the best tea house at Makalu Base Camp. In the latter part of November the people running the Makalu Base Camp tea house go back down. If trekkers want to stay at Makalu Base Camp the owner will go and open it up. I paid R3,400 ($26) for my stay. The room cost R600 ($4.50) and the dal Bhat also cost R600. I had a lot of hot drinks and lunch there. November 2025 Update - There might now be 2 tea houses at Langmale Kharka but only 1 tea house was open in mid November 2025. Dal bhat cost R800 and black tea R150. The Tea House in Langmale Kharka My bedroom at the Tea House in Langmale Kharka The Heated Dining Room at the Tea House in Langmale Kharka The Unheated Dining Room at the Tea House in Langmale Kharka Makalu Base Camp's Tea Houses I stayed 3 nights at the Yak Hotel and Lodge at Makalu Base Camp. Apparently there are 3 other tea houses but the one I stayed in is the largest and best. The main building has a dining room, a kitchen and a few bedrooms. The dining room is very pleasant as it is spacious and there are a lot of windows letting in the light and warmth from the sun. There are comfortable plastic chairs. There is another building with about 5 bedrooms (on the left in the photo). I stayed in one of these bedrooms and it was fine. There were plenty of duvets and they are needed as it is cold at night. The water in the dining room was frozen in the mornings and I paid for hot water. The trekker I met on the trek filled his bottle from a nearby river. The outside toilet also froze at night which wasn't so pleasant. I paid R10,200 ($78) for my 3 night stay. This included filling my 2 bottles with hot water each morning. The Yak Hotel & Lodge at Makalu Base Camp The Dining Room at Makalu Base Camp My Bedroom at Makalu Base Camp Menu at November 2025 10. Things to Consider Taking 10.1 Microspikes I took Kahtoola microspikes and used them several times on the icy middle section of the trek. Unfortunately the surface of the trail constantly alternated between ice and bare rock. It was a hassle putting them on and taking them off. Kahtoola micospikes are of a very good quality and I didn't always remove them when walking on short sections of rock. Much cheaper microspikes can be purchased in Kathmandu but they are less durable. I recommend taking microspikes but the locals and some trekkers manage without them. The German trekker I met didn't use microspikes or trekking poles. I needed both! 10.2 Steripen or Water Filter You can't buy bottled water after the initial section of the trek and hot water can be expensive. You therefore need to have some method of purifying the water. I always use a Steripen and it takes a minute to sterilise one litre of water. Other options are: A Life Straw Bottle Sterilising Tablets Water Filters. I don't recommend the popular Sawyer water filter as its seal must not freeze. 10.3 Power Bank and Solar Charger Above Tashigaon I believe you cannot charge electrical devices at any of the tea houses. I took a 3 panel solar charger and a couple of power banks. 10.4 Tent I took a tent in case the tea houses on the Makalu Base Camp trek were full or there was a problem with rodents in the rooms. I also didn't want to share a room if the tea houses were busy. My agency was in favour of me taking a tent as one of their clients had been unable to obtain a room at Khongma and had to hike on to the tea house at Shipton La. As it turned out the tea houses weren't busy when I did the Makalu Base Camp trek in mid November. However, I passed more trekkers coming down the trail and had only just missed the peak season. Mice weren't much of a problem. There were only mice in the ceiling of my room at Tashigaon and I had one mouse in my room at Khongma I slept in my tent at Tashigaon as there was a good camping area and I was concerned about mice in the tea house. There were no mice but it was a good decision as my porter/guide was sick and disturbed the trekker I had met at the start of the trek. This other trekker had also brought his own tent but unlike me he was carrying it! When he reached Yangle Kharka he left it there until the return journey as it was too heavy and he wasn't using it. Apparently a lot of independent trekkers end up doing this. There is often snow on the ground a Khongma and Dobato. I met some people who were doing a camping trek but stayed in the tea houses there because of the snow. Despite what I have said above I think it is advisable to take a tent if you are trekking in the peak season of October and early November. There are less trekkers in Spring but there are a lot of climbers. The climbers might camp rather than stay in the tea houses but taking a tent might be advisable. 10.5 Warm Sleeping Bag There are blankets and duvets at all the tea houses on the Makalu Base Camp trek and you could have more than one if they aren't busy. In winter it is still advisable to bring a warm sleeping room as it gets very cold at night and the walls of the rooms are constructed from sheets of corrugated iron. I was lent a North Face -40 centigrade sleeping bag that had been used on an Everest expedition. That was over the top but in winter it would be best to bring a sleeping bag with a rating of around -20 C. That might sound excessive but sleeping bag temperature ratings are often misleading. Just before the Makalu Base Camp trek I was trekking in Lower Dolpo. My Rab -13 centigrade sleeping bag was insufficient for temperatures of - 7 centigrade despite wearing numerous layers of clothing. 10.6 Tea Bags & Coffee If you are on a tight budget bring some tea bags, coffee and a spoon. Hot water is much cheaper than cups of tea and coffee. I had a lot of hot drinks due to the cold and miserable weather in the middle section of the Makalu Base Camp trek. 10.7 Boots It is very likely that there will be snow on the ground during the middle section of the Makalu Base Camp trek. Therefore boots are much better than trainers. 10.8 Snacks & Toilet Paper The food on the Makalu Base Camp trek is as basic as the tea houses! You can buy biscuits, chocolate bars and toilet paper at the tea houses but they are expensive higher up the trail. If weight isn't an issue it is best to bring a supply from Kathmandu or Khandbari.