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2025 Crete Travel Guide
- petermorley200
- 13 hours ago
- 33 min read
Updated: 8 minutes ago
Contents
Introduction
2. North West Crete Base
3. South Western Crete Base - Plakias
4. South Eastern Crete Base - Ierapetra
1. Introduction
We spent 3 weeks in Crete from the 1st June 2025. We wanted to avoid the busier and very hot period from mid June to late August. We wanted it to be hot enough to be able to sit in the shade on the beach but not so hot that we couldn't hike.
We found that the weather in Crete was excellent for the beach in June whereas when we visited the Cyclades islands in May 2022 it wasn't quite hot enough. The heat didn't prevent us from hiking but by the time we left Crete it was almost too hot for hiking. The month of May would be better for hiking.
Crete is a large island and it is necessary to stay in several locations to explore it. We stayed in 3 different locations and spent a week in each sightseeing with a rental car. We avoided staying at the main tourist beach resorts.
Our favourite part of Greece was the relatively unspoilt south west coast between Paleochora and Hora Sfakion. There is some road access to this coast but the most convenient way to travel is by ferry, taxi boat and hiking. I wish we had spent more time in this area.
We really enjoyed our time in Crete and would like to return. It is a beautiful island with friendly locals who can speak English.
We deliberately didn't visit some of the places listed as "must see" in the guide books. They are usually overcrowded and spoiled by tourism. For example:
We were going to visit Knossos but it would have meant a tiring 3 hour round car trip. In the end we decided it wasn't worth visiting an archaeological site that was speculatively rebuilt in the early 1900's. The entrance fee is now Eur 20 to visit an overcrowded attraction. If you do go try to visit early or late in the day to avoid the crowds and heat. Also check the cruise ship schedules as when cruise ships are berthed in Iraklio it will be busier at Knossos.
We only visited one of the "must see" beaches and that was Elafonissi beach. Even in early June Elafonissi beach was too busy for our liking. We found many of the less well known beaches to be more enjoyable and cheaper to visit. See my section on Balos beach for why we didn't visit it. Palm beach is difficult to access unless you arrive by boat and it's overwhelmed by visitors. Vai beach is also far too popular.
I like hiking but the hike down Samaria gorge is too popular. Between 500 to 1200 people hike down the gorge each day. Most hikers set out between 07.00 and 11.00 and that equates to between 2 to 5 trekkers every minute! Instead we hiked up the best part of the Samaria gorge from Agia Roumeli and only saw 15 other hikers in 3.5 hours! See my Samaria gorge section for how to avoid the crowds.
2. North Western Crete Base
2.1. Drive to Elafonissi Beach
We stayed about a 20 minute drive east from Kissamos. From Kissamos it's possible to do a circular drive when visiting Elafonissi beach. There is a road that follows the west coast and also a road further to the east which goes through the Topolia gorge.
We drove on the road through the Topolia gorge both ways and it's a good scenic road through the mountains. The Rough Guide to Crete mentioned several villages to visit along this road but there was in fact very little to see in them. Elos was the nicest village but it's frequented by tourist buses. The villages of Perivolia and Kefali weren't worth visiting.
We stopped off at Moni Chrysoskalitissa which is near Elafonissi beach. It's in a very pleasant setting. Surprisingly very few tour buses stop here. The present church only dates back to the 19th century. We had a pleasant half an hour visiting Moni Chrysoskalitissa. There is an entry fee of Eur 2.50.
I had read that parking at Elafonissi beach was a problem in peak season so I booked online with Mega Parking and it cost Eur 5. When we arrived at Elafonissi beach there were several car parks with plenty of space. A small car park named Mega tried to wave us in but it wasn't the right car park. Our car park was the last one, closest to the beach and had toilets. Some of the car parks further from the beach cost Eur 3.
There are restaurants and cafes near the car parks and it's about a 10 minute walk down to the beach. The beach was too busy and windy for us. Elafonissi beach was pretty but in my opinion the less commercialised beaches are better.
Our intention had been to do a 3 hour round hike eastwards along the coast from Elafonissi beach to Ammolophi beach. This is hike number 13 in the Rother Walking Guide to Crete. Unfortunately the path was poorly signed, rough and difficult to follow.
One hour after leaving Elafonissi beach we reached beautiful Kedrodasos beach and decided not to go any further. Kedrodasos beach is prettier than Elafonssi beach but smaller. There is a road part of the way to Kedrodasos beach but it does involve more walking from the road to reach the beach compared to Elafonissi beach.
2.2. Hike to the Monasteries on the Akrotiri Peninsular
We did hike number 8 in the Rother Walking Guide to Crete. This hike starts at Moni Gouvernetou which is north east of Chania on the Akrotiri peninsular.
The drive from Chania to Moni Gouvernetou passes the 17th century Moni Ayia Triadha so we visited it. It cost Eur 3 to enter Moni Ayia Triadha and there are some impressive buildings including a church and museum. In summer it's open from 09.00 to 19.00 except on Wednesdays and Fridays.
The road from Moni Ayia Triadha to Moni Gouvernetou is scenic but a bit rough towards the end. There is a free car park from where a path descends down to Moni Katholiko. There is a booth at the start where an entrance fee of Eur 2.50 is payable.
Moni Gouvernetou is shortly after the booth but as it's closed on Wednesdays we couldn't visit it. It's then about a 200 metre descent to Moni Katholiko and the interesting Bear Cave is passed on the way.
Moni Katholiko was abandoned in the 16th century due to pirate raids and cannot be entered. The 150 metre long St. John's cave is located here but we didn't see it and forgot to search for it.
The round hike takes about 2 hours and it's a fairly popular hike despite the tiring ascent. There are good views of the countryside and the sea in the distance. We enjoyed it and it's a good excursion.
It's possible to continue down to the sea. The Rother Walking Guide stated that the trail to the sea was closed but it wasn't in June 2025.
2.3. Chania
Parking in Chania
Parking in Chania is very difficult unless you use the new and free Park and Ride facility. Electric buses run every 20 minutes from 07.00 to 22.40 to the edge of Chania's old town. There is a major road intersection just before the car park which can make it a little difficult to locate.
The sign at Chania's Park and Ride shows that the buses stop at 4 locations. Most people alight at the KTEL bus station on Kidonias Street which is the second stop. This bus stop is very close to Halidon Street which is a main street leading to Chania's Cathedral and Old Venetian Harbour.
Make a note of where you got off the bus so you know where to return to! I have marked the route from Chania's KTEL bus station to the Old Venetian harbour on Google Maps.
Tourist Office & Toilets in Chania
The tourist office at 40 Kriari Street has maps and information on the places to see in Chania. This tourist office is only a 3 minute walk from the KTEL bus stop on the way to the harbour. There are also public toilets in the nearby square.
What to see in Chania
It takes about 4 hours to see most of the main sites if you don't visit the museums.
Sights at the Venetian Harbour Area on the Western side of old Chania:
The Cathedral is in a square just off Halidon Street. It isn't that old as it was constructed in the mid 1800's.
The Yali Mosque is on the eastern side of the harbour and was built in 1645 when Chania fell to the Ottomans. It's no longer used as a mosque and is used for temporary exhibitions.
There is no charge to enter the Firka Fortress on the west side of the harbour. It was the main Venetian barracks in Chania and later the Ottoman's forces used it. There isn't much to see but it's pleasant to wander around. Firka Fortress is open Monday to Friday from 08.00 to 14.00.
Nearby to Firka Fortress is the Bastion of San Salvatore. This is the best section of Venetian fortifications that were constructed in the 16th century. It's free to enter but visiting hours are limited.
It is worth walking along the alleys surrounding the western and southern side of the Old Venetian harbour. They are mainly lined with shops and restaurants for tourists. The Venetian harbour is at its busiest and most attractive in the evening.
Sights at the Inner Harbour Area on the Eastern side of old Chania:
Walking along the outer sea wall towards the lighthouse provides good views of Chania's old town and the distant mountains.
The arched Venetian Arseneli are on the waterfront. They were built in the 15th century as ship repair bases. There used to be 17 of them but now only 7 are left. You cannot enter them but they form an impressive ancient structure.
The very distinctive church of Ayios Nikalaos is in the 1821 Square. It was constructed in the 14th century. In 1645 the Ottomans converted the church into a mosque and added a minaret. It's now a church with a minaret!
The area around Ayios Nikalaos is known as Splantzia and it's an interesting area to walk around.
When walking around Chania's old town one comes across several other ancient structures:
Remains of Minoan Kydonia that was destroyed by fire in about 1450 BC.
The Byzantine walls of Chania dating back to the 7th century.
The area between Splantzia in the east and the cathedral in the west is full of shops and restaurants that cater for locals as well as tourists.
2.4. Agia Marina Beach
Agia Marina is a popular beach resort just west of Chania and next to Platanias. When driving along the main road it's difficult to distinguish the 2 resorts as it is a long urban sprawl.
The beaches at Agia Marina and Platanias can't be seen from the road and most of the access to the beaches is via hotels and restaurants. We therefore weren't initially very impressed when walking down the main street in the hot sun looking for a recommended restaurant.
Once we found the recommended Palirria Taverna we were happy. The taverna offered free sunbeds and umbrellas on the sandy beach for customers having lunch and there was a good view over to the island of Ayii Theodori. The Palirria taverna is run by a very welcoming family and the food is good.
There is rock at the water's edge so it's best to use swimming shoes. The beach at Agia Marina is long and I walked the entire length. The middle section of the beach is the nicest. It's also more commercialised than the western end where the Palirria Taverna is located. The beaches at Platanias and Agia Marina are similar but I preferred Agia Marina.
2.5. German War Cemetery & Late Minoan Tomb near Chania
The German War Cemetery and the late Minoan tomb are 10 kilometres west of Agia Marina and we combined it with a visit to Agia Marina's beach. There is car parking right in front of the entrance to the German War Cemetery and there are toilets as well.
There is an excellent exhibition at the entrance detailing Germany's invasion of Crete and the impact it had. The narrations are in several languages including English, German and Greek. We probably spent half an hour absorbing this very moving information.
The actual war cemetery is higher up on a hill. The cemetery is beautifully attended and has fantastic views. Just before the cemetery there is further information about some of the very young German soldiers who died in the war. Although the Germans committed terrible atrocities in Crete I found it very sad that they died so young.
The late Minoan tomb is a short walk away from the German War Cemetery. However, we were lazy and drove there! There isn't any parking but we managed to park on the side of the road.
From the road it is a short walk to the late Minoan tomb which dates back to the 14th century B.C. Unfortunately the roof was damaged by a German bomb but it is still worth seeing if you visit the German War Cemetery at the same time.
2.6. Falasarna Beach
Falasarna beach is a large and sandy beach on the west coast, just a bit south of Balos Bay. It's a popular beach with locals and can get very busy at weekends. Falasarna beach can be windy so check the weather forecast before going.
There are several free car parking lots at Falasarna beach. We took the second turn off for parking as it seemed closer to the beach.
We ended up at the northern end of Falasarna beach. A sun umbrella and 2 sun loungers cost Eur 20 for the rows closest to the sea and Eur 15 for the back rows. There was a taverna at the back of the beach with toilets.
We enjoyed our time at Falasarna Beach.
2.7. Hike from Paleochora to Sougia
The first 4.5 kilometres of the hike from Paleochora to Gialiskari beach is on a dirt road. We therefore decided to a taxi from Paleochora to Gialiskari beach.
We called Sergentanis Manolis for a taxi upon our arrival at Paleochora and he collected us 5 minutes later! He drove us in his large van as the road to Gialiskari beach is a bit rough. The large van was more expensive and we paid Eur 20.
We had driven from near Kissamos to Paleochora in the morning to do the hike and had parked our car on Paleochora's seafront road just east of the pier. We hadn't realised that this road becomes pedestrianised after 19.00.
This would have been a problem as at the end of the hike our ferry from Sougia was arriving at Paleochora after 19.00! Luckily Sergentanis warned us and we moved our car to another street.
Gialiskari beach is a nice sandy beach with a car park, taverna, sun loungers and umbrellas at both ends. The east end of the beach was frequented by nudists. I wouldn't want to lie on their sun loungers afterwards!
Gialiskari beach would make a good stop when hiking from Sougia to Paleochora but we didn't want to swim and sun bathe at the start of our hike. We didn't begin the hike at Sougia as the latest ferry from Paleochora to Sougia leaves at 08.30 in the morning. That's fine if you are staying in Paleochora but it was too early for us as we were staying a 1.25 hour drive away.
As the temperature was about 30 degrees centigrade we took 6 litres of water with us. There is a spring at Lissos but it can dry up. As it turned out water was flowing from the spring.
We only saw one other hiker before we reached Lissos. There were more people at Lissos who had either hiked or arrived by taxi boat from Sougia.
The archaeological site at Lissos is very interesting and the buildings date from the Classical Greek and Roman periods. There is a shady area around the spring which has benches. A good spot for lunch in hot weather!
Lissos beach is rocky and is in small bay which is also used by taxi boats from Sougia. We managed to enter the sea without shoes and really enjoyed cooling off in the beautiful bay.
In case of emergencies there seems to be an official at Lissos until about 14.00. There is also a sign with the telephone numbers for the taxi boats. We didn't have a cell phone signal but some people did. A couple of water taxis arrived whilst we were on the beach.
The hike from Lissos to Sougia passes through the beautiful Lissos gorge. The pier for Anendyk's ferries is passed just before reaching Sougia.
The hike from Gialiskari beach to Lissos took us 3 hours and it was another 2 hours to Sougia. The hike from Paleochora to Gialiskari beach would take another hour. The hike was very well marked and we had absolutely no problem in following the trail.
Sougia is a small and very laid back village and we really liked it. We had a good meal at the Liviko restaurant which is right on the coast. This restaurant has sun umbrellas and sun loungers on the beach and they cost about Eur 10.
The ferry from Sougia to Paleochora sailed at 18.20 and cost Eur 16. The ticket office opens about 30 minutes before the ferry sails and they accept credit cards.
Masses of hikers disembarked when the ferry docked at Sougia as the ferry had come from Agia Roumeli where the Samaria gorge hike ends. However, the ferry was almost empty when we departed and it was a very pleasant voyage back to Paleochora.
We really enjoyed this hike and highly recommend it. It would have been even better if we could have spent a few nights in Paleochora and Sougia. The hike from Hora Sfakia to Agia Roumeli is similar and details are in section 3.2.
2.8. Balos Beach
Balos beach is beautiful but extremely popular. We didn't visit it for several reasons:
Balos beach has been spoiled by tourism.
We don't like crowded boat tours.
The final 7 kilometres of the dirt road to Balos beach is rough and most car rental insurance policies don't cover driving on dirt roads. Many tourists with rental cars take the risk and go anyway. Although I have driven on a lot on dirt roads in Africa I didn't want risk it.
Strata Tours has a thrice daily mini bus service from Kissamos to the parking lot for Balos beach that costs Eur 20 per person. This is a good option if you don't want to go on a boat tour or risk driving a rental car to Balos beach. It's a 20 minute hike from the parking lot down to the beach and there are excellent views of Balos beach on the way.
3. South Western Crete Base - Plakias
3.1. Plakias
We liked Plakias although it can suffer from wind blowing down the Kourtaliotiko gorge. It isn't overdeveloped yet or spoiled by tourism. However, it does have good facilities.
There is a nice sandy beach on the east side of Plakias. Sun umbrellas and sun loungers cost between Eur 10 and Eur 15. There is plenty of parking along the road.
Several boat trips depart from Plakias' pier and there are numerous boards advertising the trips. They include trips to Preveli Palm beach, Gavdos island, Loutro and Agia Roumeli.
We had lunch several times at Antonis Place and really enjoyed our meals. It's a very popular restaurant.
Damnoni beach is just a couple of kilometres east of Plakias and is usually more sheltered. It's a long sandy beach with a road running along it. There is parking along the road and 3 good tavernas at the western end. All receive good reviews and we had an excellent lunch at Taverna Violakis.
3.2. Hike from Loutro to Agia Roumeli
Hike 24 in the Rother Walking Guide is from Agia Roumeli to Loutro and it states that it takes 5 hours. We decided to do the hike the other way around so we could spend the night in Agia Roumeli and hike part of the way up the Samaria gorge the next day (see section 3.3).
It's possible to start this hike in Hora Sfakion but I thought that the hike from Loutro to Agia Roumeli would be long enough in the heat. Also the first part of the route from Hora Sfakion to Loutro is on the road. It turned out to be a good decision as Lani was suffering from the heat during the final section of the hike
An Anendyk ferry departs Hora Sfakion for Loutro at 09.30 but as we wanted to leave earlier we took a water taxi for Eur 45. There is paid parking along the port road and there were plenty of parking spots when we arrived.
A man on a motor bike came to collect the parking fee of Eur 3 for 24 hours. When we returned the next day he collected another Eur 3 as we had stayed longer than 24 hours.
It was only a 10 minute boat ride to the small village of Loutro. Loutro is now popular and has expanded over recent years. There are quite a few hotels and 2 narrow beaches. Loutro was very nice even though the narrow waterfront was busy.
There is a ruined Venetian Castle to the west of Loutro's harbour and the trail to Agia Roumeli goes past it. We didn't go that way and instead climbed up to the better preserved Ottoman fortress above Loutro. From the Ottoman fortress we descended down to the hamlet of Finix.
The trail had been well marked until about Finix but the section after that to Lykos, and towards Marmara, wasn't well marked as road construction has interfered with the trail. I wished I had downloaded the trail onto my phone but we did manage to follow the trail with difficulty. Both Finix and Lykos have small hotels.
From Lykos it doesn't look like the trail can continue along the steep coastal cliffs but it does! It involves a bit of minor scrambling and there are some chains to assist. After 1.5 hours of walking from Loutro we reached the pretty small beach at Marmara.
We had a drink in the taverna that overlooked Marmara beach. They have sun umbrellas and sun loungers on the beach and it looked very pleasant. It was tempting to have a swim but we still had a long way to hike.
There is a little chapel on the hill above Marmara and from there it was a 3 hour hike to the next taverna at the beach by the Byzantine chapel of Agios Pavlos. Unlike the previous section of the hike there was some shade along the trail from pine trees. We stopped for a picnic lunch on the way.
We had run out of water by the time we reached Agios Pavlos and it looked as if the taverna was closed. We were relieved to find it was open and stopped for a drink and a swim. It was still very hot when we left at 16.30 and the owner of the taverna advised us to wait until it had cooled down and to take plenty of water.
We didn't wait any longer but luckily bought more water. On the final stretch to Agia Roumeli Lani suffered from the heat and we had to stop several times. Just before Agia Roumeli the trail wasn't clear and we walked along the seafront avoiding barbed wire. The trail is in fact a bit inland.
We reached our hotel in Agia Roumeli at 18.00. Agia Roumeli was very quiet as most of the Samaria gorge hikers had taken the 17.30 ferries to Sougia and Hora Sfakion.
Our room in the Calypso Hotel had a great shower and after cleaning up we had supper at the hotel and a wander around peaceful Agia Roumelli. It had been a very enjoyable day and I highly recommend the hike.
The next morning we set off to hike up part of the Samaria gorge before taking the 11.30 ferry back to Hora Sfakion. See section 3.3 for details.
It turned out to be a great 2 day hike and it was the most enjoyable part of our 3 week holiday in Crete. I really like the coast from Paleochora to Hora Sfakion in south west Crete. A similar great coastal hike is from Paleochora to Sougia (see section 2.7).
3.3. Samaria Gorge Hike from Agia Roumeli
Before going to Crete I researched the Samaria Gorge hike on the internet and decided that it was too busy for my liking. An average of 900 people a day hike the Samaria Gorge.
The Samaria Gorge opens at 07.00 and you can only hike down the entire way if you start hiking by 13.00. At the end of the hike most hikers take ferries from Agia Roumeli to Sougia or Hora Sfakion that depart at 17.30.
Consequently most trekkers won't start the hike later than 11.00. The hike down the Samaria gorge takes 5 to 6 hours and they don't want to miss the 17.30 ferries. That means there are almost 4 hikers a minute starting the hike between 07.00 and 11.00!
To make matters worse some of these hikers will have done little hiking before. I envisaged hikers blocking the trail and making it difficult to pass. See section 3.4 for ways of avoiding crowds when hiking down the Samaria gorge.
I thought, a much better hike would be to take the morning ferry to Agia Roumeli and hike back to Loutro or Hora Sfakion along the beautiful coast. Agia Roumeli to Loutro is a 5 hour hike and to Hora Sfakion it's probably a 7 hour hike. This is hike number 24 in the Rother Walking Guide.
When we arrived in Crete I did a bit more research. I determined that we could do the coastal hike the reverse way, spend the night in Agia Roumeli and then hike up through the Samaria Gorge from Agia Roumeli early the next morning. We would turn around in time in order to catch the 11.30 ferry from Agia Roumeli to Hora Sfakion.
The only disadvantage was that I had already booked all our accommodation for our 3 week stay in Crete. However, a room in the very good Calypso Hotel in Agia Roumeli is only about Eur 60 per night.
We decided to take a taxi boat from Hora Sfakion to Loutro and hike to Agia Roumeli. Then spend a night at Agia Roumeli and start hiking up the Samaria gorge early the next morning. See section 3.2 for details of our hike from Loutro to Agia Roumeli.
We reached Agia Roumeli at 18.00 after most of the Samalia Gorge hikers had departed on the 17.30 ferries. We had a good dinner and night's sleep at the Calypso Hotel. We started hiking at 06.30 and reached the entrance to Samaria gorge just before 07.00.
We were the first people to enter the Samaria gorge and there was no one else in sight. We walked up to the narrow "Iron Gates" part of the Samaria gorge frequently stopping for photos. The Iron Gates are where the Samaria gorge is only 3 metres wide. We still hadn't seen any other hikers and had the Samaria gorge to ourselves.
After the Christos rest area one hiker passed us. We continued hiking up the Samaria gorge for another half an hour before turning back. I think we had enough time to hike to the abandoned Samaria village but Lani's foot was hurting.
A park official informed us that the best section of the Samaria gorge hike was between the Iron Gates and the abandoned Samaria village and the section from Samaria village to the top of the Samaria gorge wasn't particularly special.
We passed a group of Italian hikers on the way back. We got back to the Calypso hotel at 10.00 where we had breakfast. Then after a stroll around Agia Roumeli we took the 11.30 ferry to Hora Sfakion.
The voyage was very scenic and it was enjoyable as there were few people on the ferry. It would be a different matter on the 17.30 ferry packed with hikers!
We were both very pleased that we had hiked part of the Samaria gorge and really enjoyed our stay at Agia Roumeli and the hike from Loutro to Agia Roumeli. I highly recommend doing it.
3.4. How to avoid Crowds on the Samaria Gorge Hike
I stated in section 3.3 that on average 900 people a day hike down the Samaria gorge each day. On very busy days there can be as many as 1,200 hikers. As most hikers start hiking between 07.00 and 11.00 this equates to about 4 to 5 people hiking down the Samaria gorge every minute.
Some people won't be bothered that the Samaria gorge trail is crowded but hikers that don't like busy trails should read on for advice on how to hike the Samaria gorge at a quieter time:
Start the Samaria Gorge Hike after 11.00
Most hikers will start hiking down the Samaria gorge by 11.00. This is because the hike takes 5 to 6 hours and the ferries from Agia Roumeli to Sougia and Hora Sfakion depart at 17.30.
Therefore hikers leaving later, say midday, should have the trail to themselves. Hikers aren't allowed to start hiking down the Samaria gorge to Agia Roumeli after 13.00.
Starting the Samaria gorge hike late would probably involve staying the night in Agia Roumeli which is a very pleasant place to stay once all the hikers have left. The Calypso hotel is very comfortable. It would also mean doing the hike in the heat of the day.
If you did spend the night at Agia Roumeli you could hike the next day to Loutro (see section 3.2) and from Loutro catch the late afternoon ferry back to Hora Sfakion. That's the same ferry that all the hikers returning from the Samaria gorge hike will be on.
Hike the Samaria Gorge at the Weekend
The official at the check point told us that fewer people hike the Samaria gorge at the weekend. She said that on week days there is an average of 900 hikers and at weekends the number of hikers drops to about 500 per day.
The reason could be that the weekends are when most tourists are arriving and departing Crete.
Don't Hike the Samaria Gorge the day after a Closure
The Samaria gorge is often closed for safety reasons. It can be too hot, too windy, rain can cause rock fall etc. It is likely that the day after the Samaria gorge has been closed will be busier.
Incidentally it is best to check before you leave for the hike that Samaria gorge hasn't been closed. Usually any closure is indicated on the official web page for buying tickets for Samaria gorge.
Start the Samaria Gorge Hike very early
Most travel guides recommend starting the hike as soon as the Samaria gorge opens at 07.00. If too many people follow this advice it would be counter productive.
Hike partly up the Samaria Gorge from Agia Roumeli
That's the hike we did. See section 3.2.
A park official informed us that the best section of the Samaria gorge hike was between the Iron Gates and the abandoned Samaria village. The park official said the section from the abandoned Samaria village to the top of the Samaria gorge wasn't particularly special.
If you start hiking as soon as Samaria Gorge opens it should be possible to reach the abandoned Samaria Village, or get very close to it, and still be able to catch the 11.30 a.m. ferry from Agia Roumeli to Hora Sfakion.
When we hiked up Samaria gorge we only saw about 15 hikers in 3.5 hours. We had the Samaria gorge to ourselves and it was fantastic.
3.5. Frangokastello
Frangokastello is a 50 minute drive west of Plakias. There is no centre to the sprawling small town. Most visitors head to the imposing castle where there is paid parking. Next to the castle is a field with free parking.
Frangokastello castle was built in 1371 to deter pirates and the exterior of the castle is impressive. There is very little to see in the interior and that's probably why there isn't an entrance fee!
From Frangokastello castle it's a short walk to the very nice sandy beach. Frangkastello's beach is on a spit of land and there are sun umbrellas and sun loungers on either side of the spit which cost about Eur 10.
3.6. Drive around the Amari Valley
We did a circuit of Plakias - Thronos - Moni Asomaton - Monastiraki - Amari - Spili - Plakias and the drive took 6 hours. Unfortunately most of the villages in the Amari Valley were destroyed by the Germans in the 2nd World War and the reconstructed villages have little of interest for tourists.
In Thronos only the 11th century Church of Panayia is of interest. It was locked when we arrived but an old man came out of a house opposite and opened it for us.
The Church of Panayia has beautiful frescoes but unfortunately photography isn't allowed. Part of the floor is a mosaic from the previous Byzantine church on this site. We were asked to put a small donation in the donation box.
We walked up to the acropolis of ancient Syvritos above Thronos but there is very little to see to justify the effort.
We had a quick stop and look at the church at Moni Asomaton and then drove on to the nearby Minoan archaeological site of Monastiraki. It was a bit difficult to locate and unfortunately it was the one day of the week that it was closed.
We were disappointed that we couldn't visit Monastiraki as the site was quite extensive and looked interesting. It is open from 08.30 to 15.30 every day except Tuesday. The entrance fee is Eur 5.
We continued on to Amari hoping to find a restaurant for lunch but there was nothing. The Venetian clock tower is the only building of interest at Amari and we walked up to see it.
On the way back to Plakias we stopped off at the pleasant town of Spili which is visited by tourists and tour groups. There were several restaurants in Spili but they didn't appeal as too much fast food was on the menus.
Unfortunately there seems to be little of interest in the Amari valley for tourists.
3.7. Palace of Phaistos
We visited the Palace of Phaistos on the way from Plakias to our new accommodation in Ierapetra. It's one of the best Minoan sites in Crete and it has just been designated a World Heritage site. The site dates back to 2000 B.C.
In the last couple of years the entrance fees to Greece's archaeological sites have been drastically increased and it now costs Eur 15 to visit the Palace of Phaistos. Phaistos is open every day of the year except on holidays. The opening hours are 08.00 to 20.00 from the 1st April to 1st September.
There is free parking near the site and a snack bar and toilets at the entrance. We arrived in the late morning. Although there were other visitors Phaistos wasn't busy and there weren't any tour groups.
We spent an hour looking around the impressive site of Phaistos.
3.8. Rethymno
Rethymno is a 1.25 hour drive east of Chania and an hour's drive north of Plakias. We drove there when moving from our accommodation near Kissamos to Plakias.
I had read that parking in Rethymno can be difficult but we didn't have a problem when we arrived at 10.30 a.m. in early June. There are 2 large car parks at the port.
One of these car parks is completely free and there isn't a barrier. There are toilets at the end of this car park (Eur 0.50). The car park next to it has a barrier but parking is free from 02.00 to 17.00. There is another large paid car park across from these 2 port car parks.
It's about a 10 minute walk westwards from these car parks to Rethymno's old town. Rethymno's large main beach is just on the eastern side of these car parks.
There aren't many specific sites to see in Rethynmo but it's very pleasant wandering around the old alleys. Unfortunately most of the restaurants and shops now cater for tourists. Half a day is sufficient for visiting Rethymno.
There are numerous restaurants for tourists in Rethymno and it's difficult to know which ones are good. We wanted to have lunch at Stella's kitchen as it had very good reviews but unfortunately it was closed on Sundays. We therefore ate at another restaurant which had average food.
The main sites in Rethymno are:
Venetian Fortress
The imposing fortress is the largest ever built by the Venetians. It was built in the 16th century to prevent pirate raids. The fortress quickly fell to the Ottomans in 1645.
The fortress is open from 08.00 to 20.00 and there is an entry fee of Eur 5. There is a 50% discount for people over 65 even if you don't reside in the EU. There are free toilets near the entrance.
There isn't much to see at the Fortress apart from the mosque which has a very impressive dome. Otherwise it is a matter of just walking around the extensive walls.
Venetian Harbour
This harbour has always had a problem with silting up and it's only used by a few pleasure boats. During the day time it is worth a quick look but there isn't much going on.
Rimondi Fountain
The attractive 17th century Rimondi fountain is near to the Venetian Harbour and most tourists want to take a photo of it!
Loggia
This was built in the 16th century but can't be entered.
Nerantzes Mosque
This was originally a church but converted to a mosque by the Ottomans. The tall minaret dominates Rethynmo's skyline. It isn't open to the public.
3.9. Late Minoan Cemetery of Armeni
We visited the Late Minoan Cemetery of Armeni when driving from Rethymno to Plakias. It is only a 15 minute drive from Rethymno and a 30 minute drive from Plakias.
The Late Minoan Cemetery of Armeni is open every day from 09.00 to 17.00 except Tuesdays. The entrance fee is Eur 5 and there is parking and toilets at the site
The Late Minoan Cemetery of Armeni is worth visiting if you are driving by but I wouldn't make a special journey. There are many tomb entrances but most tombs are too small to enter. It's possible to enter tomb 159 which dates back to 1200 B.C. The Late Minoan Cemetery of Armeni can be seen in 45 minutes.
4. South Eastern Crete Base - Ierapetra
4.1. Spinalonga Island
Spinalonga island is one of the most popular sights on Crete and is an idyllic setting. The Venetians built the imposing fortress on Spinalonga in 1579 and it encompasses the entire island. The fortress was impregnable and was handed over to the Ottomans by treaty in 1715, fifty years after the rest of Crete had surrendered.
A town was established inside the fortress by the Ottomans. In the first half of the 20th century Spinalonga was a leper colony and the lepers lived in this town. Spinalonga was the last leper colony in Europe as drugs had already been found to control leprosy. The leper colony was very primitive and the lepers were treated very harshly.
Spinalonga island is open from 08.30 to 18.00 every day from 1st April to 31st October. It's closed in winter. The entry fee is Eur 20. The entry fee was only Eur 8 a couple of years ago but the entry fees for all Greece's archaeological sites have been drastically increased.
Spinalonga island can be accessed by half hourly taxi boats from Plaka and Elounda. The boat ride takes about 10 minutes and costs Eur 12 from Plaka and Eur 14 from Elounda. Tickets can be bought on arrival.
Any boat from Spinalonga can be taken back to the mainland. There are 2 free car parks at Plaka and the car park on the northern side has more space.
I had read that it was best to visit Spinalonga either early or late in the day to avoid tour groups. We couldn't do that but I had also read that most tour groups visited in the morning so we visited in the afternoon. We went at 14.00 in mid June and it wasn't busy.
Upon arrival at Spinalonga the entry fee is payable and then access to the fortress is through a tunnel. The main part of Spinalonga fortress is around the area immediately after the tunnel. After passing through the tunnel it is possible to climb on to the fortress walls and obtain a good view.
The street running along the western side of the fortress has most of the remaining dwellings. There are very interesting exhibits detailing the history of Spinalonga in several of the houses on the left hand side. Eventually the only other gate to the fortress is reached.
We also climbed up the hillside to explore other parts of Spinalonga's fortifications. There are good views but there is little else to justify the effort.
We finished by walking around the walls of the entire island. The fortifications are very imposing and it doesn't take that long to walk around them.
We thoroughly explored Spinalonga and spent 1.5 hours doing so. We were fortunate that after walking around the island we spotted the taxi boat arriving. We quickly descended and saved up to half an hour wait.
I heard reports that some tourists have been put off visiting Spinalonga due to the high cost of the entrance fee and taxi boat. It's expensive but we really enjoyed our visit to Spinalonga and thought it was worth the cost.
4.2. Gournia Archaeological Site & Moni Faneromeni
The Gournia archaeological site is on the north coast but it's only a 20 minute drive from Ierapetra on the south coast. Gournia is open every day except Tuesday from 08.30 to 15.30 and the entrance fee is Eur 5. Parking is on the quiet road near the entrance.
Gournia is the most completely preserved Minoan town in Crete and dates back to 1500 B.C. It was an important town as it controlled the narrow isthmus between north and south Crete.
We enjoyed wandering around the old streets and houses of Gournia. However, there is nothing over 2 metres high and some people might consider the site to be a mass of walls!
We visited a few other archaeological sites in Crete and felt that Phaistos Palace and the Lato archaeological site were more interesting.
Moni Faneromeni is very near Gournia but it involves driving 5 kilometres up a hillside. Luckily the monastery had a very good relationship with the wife of the previous prime minister and a tarred road was constructed to it.
There are excellent coastal views all the way up to Moni Faneromeni. Two monks reside at the monastery and the one who greeted us was very friendly. We were allowed to take his picture on the understanding we wouldn't publish it. We have kept our promise!
The main frescoes in the church look ancient but in fact they aren't very old. It was atmospheric inside. Once a year many pilgrims walk up to the monastery and pray for a few days.
4.3. Hike from Xerokambos to Kato Zakros
This is hike 70 in the Rother Walking Guide but the book starts the hike at Kato Zakros. We did the walk the other way around and it turned out to be a good decision.
When we arrived at Xerokambos we drove on a dirt road to Katsounaki beach and there is a car park there. It's a nice beach and is popular with nudists.
There was a sign at the car park pointing the way and from there the trail was clearly marked all the way to Kato Zakros. There was no shade at all and we only saw 3 other hikers. The scenery was nice but it doesn't vary enough.
The only tricky section is just before Kato Zakros and a little bit of scrambling is required. The hike took us 2 hours and 45 minutes which is longer than what the Rother Guide indicated.
We had a good lunch at the Nostos restaurant in Kato Zakros and afterwards relaxed on the free sun loungers on the beach. Whilst there we heard a couple, who had hiked down the nearby Dead's gorge, ask the restaurant owner to arrange a taxi back to their vehicle at the top of the gorge.
We were surprised that there was a taxi at Kato Zakros. The restaurant owner informed us that the taxi driver did a good business transporting hikers who only wanted to hike the Dead's gorge one way.
We decided to take a taxi back to Katsounaki beach rather than hike the same trail back again in the heat. The restaurant owner arranged the taxi for us and it cost Eur 35. The taxi driver was reluctant to drive the final section along the dirt road so we walked it.
If we had started the hike from Kato Zakros we probably wouldn't have known about the taxi. Also there isn't a taverna at Katsounaki beach and the nearest one is 2 kilometres further south.
4.4. Myrtos and Tertsa beaches
Myrtos beach is a 20 minute drive west from Ierapetra. Myrtos is a busy little village with lots of restaurants along the sea front. Some restaurants provide free sun umbrellas and sun loungers if you have lunch there. Myrtos is very pleasant and seems a popular place.
Reviews state that parking isn't problem at Myrtos but when we went on a Sunday we found it difficult to find a parking place.
Tertsa beach is a further 15 minute drive west from Myrtos. The drive there is along a scenic, but narrow, road with high cliffs on the one side and the sea on the other side. At Tertsa there are 3 Tavernas and the Stefania and Lambos restaurants provide ample parking.
We went to the Stefania restaurant and used their sun umbrella and sunbeds for free on the sandy beach as we were staying for lunch. Lunch was good and we had a good day at Tertsa. Tertsa is much quieter than Myrtos and parking is easier.
4.5. Kritsa Town & Lato Archaeological Site
We drove from Ierapetra to Kritsa on the minor mountain roads that go via the Bramianon reservoir and the village of Prina. We hardly saw any other traffic which was fortunate as in a few places the road was only single lane! We found a free parking lot in the centre of Kritsa.
Kritsa can also be reached on a good road from the resort of Agia Nikolaos. Kritsa is frequented by tourists and tour buses as it's a pretty town with craft shops for tourists. Unless you are a shopper there isn't a lot to see in Kritsa but it's pleasant wandering around. We had a good lunch at the Agadiko restaurant.
There is good 1.5 hour circular hike through the nearby Kritsa gorge. It is hike number 57 in the Rother Walking Guide. We didn't do the hike as it was very windy and we were concerned about falling rocks.
The Byzantine church of Panagia Kera is only one kilometre from Kritsa and it has the most complete and famous Byzantine frescoes in Crete. Unfortunately we had a late lunch and by the time we got there it had just closed. It is open every day, except Tuesday, from 08.30 to 15.30.
We visited the Lato Archaeological site which is three kilometres from Kritsa. It's open every day, except Tuesday, from 08.30 to 15.00 and the entrance fee is Eur 5.
Lato was of Doric origin and dates back to the 5th century B.C. Lato's ruins are impressive and are in a scenic location.
4.6. Diaskari beach
Diaskari beach is a 35 minute drive from Ierapetra. It is a quiet beach with one taverna and plenty of parking. A sun umbrella and 2 sun loungers cost Eur 10. The beach is sandy but there is some rock as you enter the sea.
We really liked it and went twice. The taverna only provides a limited menu of cold meals on Thursdays.
5. Accommodation in Crete
We spent 3 weeks in Crete and booked apartments and houses through Booking.com in 3 different locations. We avoided the main tourist areas and tried to find accommodation that was quiet, spacious and clean.
5.1. Apartment in North West Crete - 30 minutes West of Chania
We stayed at the Christine Luxury Villa which is a fantastic 3 bedroom apartment in the village of Kolymvari, a 30 minute drive west of Chania and a 20 minute drive east of Kissamos. It's new, modern, well finished and nicely furnished.
It was centrally located for exploring the north west of Crete and there was enough to do for a full week there. We paid Eur 790 for a week in June which was a bargain.
5.2. Town House in Plakias
We stayed at the Michaela Beach House which was a pleasant 15 minute walk away from the centre of Plakias. It's a 3 bedroom end town house in a modern development. We enjoyed our stay. We paid Eur 907 for 6 nights in June.
It wasn't up to the same very high standard as Christine Luxury Villa but was still good accommodation. The potential issues with this property are:
On our final night the land next to the town house was being cleared. It's likely they will build more houses there. That would block the view and create noise during construction.
The largest bedroom is on the lower floor and is accessed through an outside entrance.
You can hear some noise from the adjoining town house and if the occupants were noisy it could be a problem.
5.3. House in Ierapetra (South East Crete)
We stayed at Apple Home which is a luxury 3 bedroom house in Ierapetra. We paid Eur 1,148 for the week. This house was of the same very high standard as Christine Luxury Villa.
The house was spacious, modern, well furnished and had everything you need. Penelope (the owner) was fantastic and provided us with lots of information on what to do.
The only disadvantage is that Ierapetra isn't a very interesting or beautiful town. However, it was a good base and the north coast was only a 20 minute drive away.
6. Car Rental In Crete
I wanted to rent a car from a local car rental agency as they are usually cheaper than the international agencies. Unfortunately I couldn't find a good local car agency which allowed vehicles to be collected at Chania and returned at Iraklio.
We therefore rented a car from Hertz through Booking.com and we were happy with their service. We didn't take out their full collision damage insurance as it was too expensive and we didn't pay for Lani to drive because of the cost for an extra driver. They weren't fussy when checking the condition of the car when we returned it.
When we returned to the UK I discovered that Auto Rentals Crete rents vehicles at both Chania and Iraklio airports and has excellent reviews. They provide full collision damage cover in the quoted price and there is no charge for a second driver.
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