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Berat, Albania After spending 4 very pleasant days in Himare (see my blog Himare, Albania: Travel Guide ) we drove up to Berat for a one night stay. We then continued on to Kruje (see my blog Kruje, Albania: Travel Guide ). Contents Introduction Berat Castle Berat's Moslem Mangalemi neighbourhood The Christian Gorica neighbourhood The Central Area North of the River Accommodation in Berat Links to My Other Blogs on Albania 1. Introduction to Berat Berat is a UNESCO World Heritage Site like Gjirokaster, but fortunately much more interesting. I found Gjirokaster very disappointing as detailed in my blog Gjirokaster, Albania: Nothing Special! . We certainly felt that Berat deserved a 1 night stop over. It takes about half a day to see the main sights in Berat. These are: Berat's huge inhabited castle. The Moslem Mangalemi neighbourhood. The Christian Gorica neighbourhood. Berat's central area north of the Usumi River with the King's Mosque, Leaden Mosque and the Boulevard Republika with its cafes and restaurants. 2. Berat Castle We walked up the steep cobbled street called Mihal Komneno to reach Berat Castle entrance. Locals drive up but we wanted some exercise. I also try to avoid driving in historic centres if possible as the driving can get very hairy. Berat Castle is always open as there are inhabited dwellings within the castle walls. We didn't pay an entrance fee as we got there after 18.00 as it had been raining heavily in the afternoon. The castle's website indicates there is an entrance fee of 300 Lek (Eur3) between 09.00 to 16.00 from Tuesday to Saturday and between 09.00 to 14.00 on a Sunday. The other 2 castles (Gjirokaster & Palermo) that we visited in Albania weren't very ancient and only dated back to the early 1800's. Berat castle is old with many structures dating back to the 13th and 14th centuries. It was much more interesting than the other 2 castles. Berat Castle covers a huge area and consists of walls, fortifications, streets, mosques and churches. You need a minimum of an hour to see the castle and if you explore it fully it could take up to 2 hours. There are several signs throughout the site suggesting routes to follow and providing information on the structures. There are some small restaurants within the castle walls near the entrance. The Bradt guide book recommends the Klea and the Onufri restaurants. Berat Castle Berat Castle A Street in Berat Castle A Church in Berat Castle The Red Mosque in Berat Castle 3. The Moslem Mangalemi neighbourhood It is the Mangalemi neighbourhood that gave Berat its nickname of the City of a Thousand Windows. It is best viewed in the evening from the bridge over to Gorica or from Gorica's riverside. It is very atmospheric during the evening call to prayer and you don't feel that you are in Europe. Shops and restaurants line the north side of the road that follows the riverbank. Unfortunately the road is busy and it isn't a particularly special walk. However, it is worth walking a short way to the Gorica Bridge that was built in 1780. It is a beautiful stone bridge that crosses over to the Christian Gorica neighbourhood of Berat. Mangalemi - The "City of a Thousand Windows" View from Mangalemi of the Gorica Bridge The Bachelors' Mosque 4. The Christian Gorica neighbourhood It is very pleasant wandering around the old streets of Gorica and there is very little traffic. It is mainly a quiet residential area and there aren't many shops or restaurants. Gorica A Street in Gorica 5. Berat's Central Area North of the River The area to the east of the Bachelors's Mosque in Mangalemi is flat and runs south eastwards along the river Osumi. There are some historical buildings to see like the King's Mosque and the Leaden Mosque. Boulevard Republika is the liveliest street in Berat and is lined with cafes and restaurants on the northern side. It's a good place to eat with plenty of opportunity to people watch. Boulevard Republika in Berat The King's Mosque in Berat 6. Accommodation in Berat We stayed in a fantastic 3 bedroom luxury penthouse apartment in Berat for only Eur 45 per night. It can be booked through Booking.com . Details of the apartment are on my blog titled UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 2 . It is number 8 on this blog. 7. Links to My Other Blogs on Albania Kruje, Albania: Travel Guide Himare, Albania: Travel Guide Gjirokaster, Albania: Nothing Special! Driving through Albania: From Greece to Montenegro The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8 Albania to Montenegro - Week 9

Livada Beach near Himare We drove from Gjirokaster (see my blog Gjirokaster, Albania: Nothing Special! ) to Himare and spent 4 very pleasant days there. We then drove up to Berat (see my blog Berat, Albania: Travel Guide ). Contents Introduction Himare & Livada Beach South to Palermo Castle & the road to Saranda Old Himare North to Dhermi & Llogoraja Pass Link to my Other Blogs on Albania 1. Introduction to Himare None of Albania's coastal towns are special architecturally and the main reason to visit them is to enjoy the beaches and sea. At the moment Albania's coastal resorts are relatively undeveloped compared to those in most other European countries. However that is rapidly changing. We wanted to stay at one coastal town during our one week drive up Albania from Greece to Montenegro. For us it was a choice between Ksamil and Himare. Ksamil now seems to be spoiled by over development and I couldn't find any ideal accommodation. I found the very nice and reasonably priced Mihalis Apartments at Himare and therefore decided to spend 3 nights there. The apartments can be booked through Booking.com and my review of the apartments is number 7 on my blog UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 2 . The main reason to stay at Himare is for the beaches and the sea. There are 2 main excursions that can be made by either driving north up the coast or south down the coast. 2. Himare & Livada Beach Himare isn't a beautiful town, but it is also not overdeveloped nor too touristy. This is probably because the beach isn't that special and is very narrow. There are far better beaches to the north at Livada and at Dhermi. From our apartment it was a 10 minute walk down to Livada beach. We drove the 2 kilometres every night to Himare to have dinner and do grocery shopping. We always had a short walk around Himare after dinner but there wasn't much to do or see. Apart from the short seafront promenade Himare is scruffy. We parked on the street when we went to the southern part of Himare. It is a 10 minute walk to the promenade in the northern part of Himare. This is where most of the restaurants and shops are. Free parking is difficult to find in the northern section of Himare. However, you can find parking by entering " Private Parking Himare " in Google Maps. It costs 300 Lek for 3 hours and 700 Lek for the day. Livada beach is one of the nicest beaches that I have been to. The water is clean, inviting and warm. We didn't see any jelly fish whilst we were there but it was just the start of summer. There are sun loungers and umbrellas on most of Livada beach, but there are public areas as well. We paid 500 Lek for 2 sun loungers and an umbrella. I think we got a good deal and in the peak season it would be at least double that. There is a good road to Livada beach and we managed to park along the seafront. Whilst we were there they were constructing a seafront promenade and the area above Livada beach was messy. The peak summer season was just about to start and the timing of the construction was poor. There are quite a few restaurants and hotels along the north and central sections of Livada beach. However, it is still very undeveloped. The south end of Livada beach is quieter as the road doesn't extend that far. Although I really liked Livada beach I wasn't that impressed with the development going on. It will improve once the promenade is completed. However, I don't think the promenade will be as nice and classy as the one at nearby Dhermi. Himare Livada Beach near Himare Livada Beach near Himare 3. South to Palermo Castle & the road to Saranda We drove from Gjirokaster to Himare via Saranda (see my blog Albania to Montenegro - Week 9 ) . We didn't stop to look around Saranda as I was worried about the security of our possessions in our car. Also the Bradt guide book stated that Saranda was an unappealing concrete jungle! For once they didn't unnecessarily rave about a place. The road is very scenic with superb coastal views. It is a single lane mountainous road and easy to drive along. As usual we had impatient Albanian tailgaters behind us. It was never for too long as they had little hesitation in overtaking on blind corners! It is about 1 hour 20 minute drive each way. Palermo Castle is a 20 minute drive from Himare. On the way you can pull off the road into a lay by to view a submarine tunnel that was used by the Russians in the 1950's. There is limited free parking at a restaurant on the side of the road near Palermo castle. There is also a rough dirt track that runs down to the small beach and the castle and there is plenty of parking there. The road was far too rough for my liking and I personally wouldn't risk driving down it. The entrance fee is 300 Lek and in summer Palermo castle is open from 09.00 to 18.00. The castle isn't that old as it was only built in the early 19th century by Ali Pasha Tepelana. It is not a must see sight but it is interesting enough. It takes about half an hour to see Palermo castle. Road between Himare & Saranda Road between Himare & Saranda Road between Himare & Saranda Submarine Tunnel between Himare & Palermo Castle Palermo Castle Entrance Palermo Castle Vaults in Palermo Castle Vaults in Palermo Castle 4. Old Himare We could see Old Himare from our apartment and it looked quite interesting perched on a hill. It is quite a distance from new Himare and we therefore drove up one morning to have a look around. There is limited car parking just off the main road, but there is more parking just behind the nearby church. Unfortunately Old Himare looks more interesting from a distance than close up! There really isn't much to see except the good view down to Livada beach. There are very few buildings and they are uninteresting ruins. We saw a few poor souls trudging up the road from Himare in the heat. It is probably at least a 30 minute unpleasant walk to Old Himare and I don't recommend it. Some people do stay near Old Himare but you need a car if you do. The Bradt guide book has a different opinion of Old Himare! It states Old Himare " has an astonishing number of churches in varying stages of dilapidation, some with beautiful frescoes. It is a pleasant and scenic walk of 30-45 minutes from Spile to Old Himare ". Unfortunately guide books often rave about places that aren't special, which was also the case with Girokaster. See my blog Gjirokaster, Albania: Nothing Special! View of Livada Beach from Old Himare Derelict Buildings in Old Himare 5. North to Dhermi & Llogoraja Pass It is a 30 minute scenic drive along the coast from Himare to the small town of Dhermi. The coastal road runs high above Dhermi and it is about a kilometre drive down a good road to Dhermi. We parked in a street above the sea front promenade and then walked the short distance down to the beach. Dhermi's seafront is very upmarket compared to Himare and Livada and strolling along the promenade is very pleasant. There are lots of restaurants and classy hotels. There is still construction going on but I think the end product will be nice. Dhermi's beach is long and wide like Livada beach and the sea is very inviting. A good place if you want a beach holiday but it probably isn't cheap by Albanian standards. Dhermi Beach Dhermi Beach Dhermi's Seafront Promenade Llogoraja Pass is 20 minutes further on. The coastal road climbs steeply, with numerous hair pin bends, to the 1,027 metre summit. It isn't particularly difficult or dangerous driving up the pass as it is a 2 lane road. You just have to be careful on the tight hair pin bends so you avoid oncoming traffic. We had bad weather when we drove up Llogoraja pass, but we could see that the views would be good on a nice day. It was windy and cold at the top of Llogoraja pass despite it being mid June. View from Llogoraja Pass Driving on Llogoraja Pass From Llogoraja Pass you can drive on towards Vlore. The new Vlore bypass road has now been opened and starts well before you reach Vlore. It is a scenic road but you have to watch out for loose rocks on the road. This is due to the road being cut through hillsides that haven't been properly stabilised. Vlore itself is probably too far for a day trip. View of Vlore from the Vlore Bypass The New Vlore Bypass 6. Links to My Other Blogs on Albania Kruje, Albania: Travel Guide Berat, Albania: Travel Guide Gjirokaster, Albania: Nothing Special! Driving through Albania: From Greece to Montenegro The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8 Albania to Montenegro - Week 9

The Lighthouse on Papargyros Cape Contents Introduction Tinos Town Villages around Exobourgo Mountain The Village of Kardiani Hikes on Tinos Car Ferries to and from Tinos Car Repairs Accommodation on Tinos Links to My Other Blogs on Greece 1. Introduction to Tinos Island 1.1. Our Itinerary for the Cyclades We wanted to visit 4 of the Cyclades islands during our 3 month European road trip but I discovered that it was expensive to take a car on the ferry. I investigated leaving our car in Athens and renting cars on each island. That worked out to be even more expensive so I reverted back to using our own car. There aren't car ferries between all the islands so using our own car limited our choice of islands. I used the Ferryhopper website to determine which islands were serviced by car ferries. We wanted to avoid very touristy islands like Mykonos and Santorini. I eventually devised a circular route to 4 Cyclades islands with Naxos being the only touristy one. Our itinerary was Athens (Piraeus) - Syros - Naxos - Tinos - Andros - Athens (Rafina). We stayed 4 or 5 nights on each island. 1.2. Why we chose to visit Tinos The Rough Guide says that " Tinos still feels like one of the most Greek of the larger islands in the Cyclades ". The Tripadvisor forum mentioned that the hiking trails were excellent. We wanted to visit Andros (see my blog Andros, Greece: Travel Guide ) and Naxos ( see my blog Naxos, Greece: Travel Guide ). There are car ferries between Naxos to Andros that stop at Tinos. 1.3. Is Tinos worth visiting? Tinos is an authentic Greek island unspoiled by tourism. The main visitors are Greeks visiting the island for religious reasons. Tinos is an attractive island with pretty villages and reasonable roads for exploring the island. There are a couple of good hiking trails, but many trails are becoming difficult to follow as they aren't being maintained. See the hiking section of this blog for details. We were a bit underwhelmed by Tinos Town. It pales in comparison to Naxos Town. We enjoyed wandering around Naxos Town every evening but one visit of about an hour was enough for Tinos. The island of Tinos is definitely worth visiting but you do need a car. A stay of 3 to 4 nights is sufficient. 2. Tinos Town The main, and probably, only sight to see is the imposing Panayia Evangelistria Church. Most Greek visitors come to the church to see an icon famous for its healing powers. There are 2 long straight streets going uphill from the harbour to the church. You can enter the church and there isn't an entrance fee. The western street has a long thick runner attached to the side of the street to protect the hands and knees of devotees crawling up the hill. We didn't see anyone doing this. The eastern street is lined with stalls and shops selling religious items. We found free parking on the upper section of the western road to the church. When driving in Tinos Town ensure you have all your car papers as the Port police stopped us and asked to see them. Most of the restaurants are in the central harbour area. Panayia Evangelistria Church on Tinos Island The Harbour at Tinos Town 3. Villages around Exobourgo Mountain Exobourgo Mountain is 570 metres high. It is an imposing mountain of barren rock and is circled by several pretty Greek villages. The top can be reached by steep steps from the village of Xinara but we didn't climb up. We visited the villages of Tripotamos, Skalados, Xinara and Falatados. Tripotamos is the most interesting of these villages and is a 10 minute drive from Tinos Town. It has old buildings, tunnelled alleyways and churches. Some dilapidated buildings have been restored and turned into small hotels and holiday homes. Vehicles can't enter the village and there is limited parking on the main road above the village. Falatados is also worth visiting and has several white washed churches. There are 2 free car parks. The first one was full but there was space at the next car park. Exobourgo Mountain The Village of Skalados The Village of Xinara The Village of Xinara Tripotamos Tripotamos Tripotamos Tripotamos Tripotamos 4. The Village of Kardiani We stopped off at the beautiful village of Kardiani on our drive up north to Mamados to do a hike. We parked on the main road and walked down to Kardiani. We were concerned the road to the village would be steep and narrow but it was fine. The Village of Kardiani A Dovecote in the Village of Kardiani A Dovecote in the Village of Kardiani The Village of Kardiani The Village of Kardiani 5. Hikes on Tinos Island 5.1. The Condition of Hiking Trails on Tinos The Tinos Trails website lists 12 hikes that have well marked trails on Tinos. These trails aren't well maintained. A March 2023 review on Tripadvisor reported that many of the paths were overgrown and impassable. The reviewer said " It got to the point that I was dreading every time the trail got into nature, and was relieved when the way marking led to asphalt road. The opposite of what you're supposed to feel when hiking! ". The reviewer said that trails M3, M3a and E4 were fine and I can confirm that in June 2023 trails M3a and E4 were in good condition. The reviewer didn't walk trails T3, M2, E1, E2. It is possible that the trails will be cleared but also possible that they will become even more neglected. A good way of checking is to read recent user reviews of the hikes on the Wikiloc and Alltrails websites. 5.2. Tinos Trail M3A - Livada Beach to the Lighthouse on Papargyros Cape This is a very scenic coastal trail that takes about 40 minutes each way. It isn't a circular hike so you walk back on the same trail. The trail starts from Livada beach. There is a signpost just above the middle section of the beach. Once you have found this sign it is very easy to follow the trail. It is very well marked with red & white paint. The Alltrails app shows the route. Initially the path climbs up and then descends steeply before climbing to the lighthouse. It isn't a difficult path but there are lots of loose stones so it is best to walk carefully. The final section is a bit exposed when it is very windy. The tourist map indicates that almost the entire road to Livada beach is unpaved. In reality only the final 3 kilometres is unpaved. It is possible to carefully drive a saloon car until the last two hundred metres before the beach. We parked on the side of the road just before that section. If you want a longer hike you can add on the M3 hike from Myrsini to Livada beach. This trail was reported to be in good condition in March 2023. You would have to hike back up the same way. The Alltrails app shows that there is an elevation gain of 400 metres and that the hike takes 3 hours 15 minutes. Sign for Path M3A on Livada Beach Looking back to Livada Beach at the start of the Walk View on the Walk to the Lighthouse View on the Walk to the Lighthouse The Path to the Lighthouse on Papargyros Cape Looking down to Leivada Beach on the way back 5.3. Tinos Trail: E4 Mamados - Mali - Koumelas - Marlas - Mamados This circular trail descends from the inland village of Mamados to the coastal villages of Mali and Koumelas. The trail back ascends to the village of Marlas, close to the starting point at Mamados. The trail was well marked, except in 1 place, and is in good condition. We used the Wikilok app to help follow the route. The Alltrails app has a fairly similar route. It is an open walk with good views and takes about 2.5 hours. There is a beach at Mali so you can have a swim there. There is a free car park at Mamados. I recommend this hike and in June 2023 it was one of the few trails on Tinos island that weren't overgrown. View from near Mamados Before the descent to Mali Looking down to the Village of Mali The Village of Mali The village of Mali Looking towards the Village of Koumelas View on the way up from the Village of Koumelas 6. Car Ferries to and from Tinos We travelled to Tinos on a car ferry from Naxos and departed on a car ferry to Andros. Both ferries stopped at Mykonos. When we saw the cruise ships moored at Mykonos we were pleased that we weren't staying there! There are several car ferries sailing between Tinos and Andros but only two car ferries that sail between Naxos and Tinos. Both routes are fairly quick and take less than 2 hours. The cost for the car was between Eur 36 to Eur 40 which I felt was reasonable. 7. Car Repairs We had some problems with our car while we were on Tinos. A local recommended a garage and the mechanic was excellent. He spoke good English, was very helpful and the cost was very reasonable. The workshop is behind a Shell petrol station on the northern outskirts of Tinos Town. It is on the left hand side of the road to Tripotamos. Only the Shell petrol station is visible from the road. The workshop name is Delatolas, K., & A. O.E. 8. Accommodation on Tinos We stayed in a studio apartment that we rented through Airbnb for Eur 70 per night. We weren't very impressed with it but it gets good reviews. I have reviewed it on my blog " UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 2 " (number 3). 9. Links to My Other Blogs on Greece Monemvasia, Greece: Travel Guide Mycenae, Greece: Travel Guide Tiryns, Greece: Travel Guide Epidaurus, Greece: Travel Guide Nafplio, Greece: Travel Guide Corinth, Greece: Travel Guide Delphi, Greece: Travel Guide The Monasteries of Meteora: Travel Guide Naxos, Greece: Travel Guide Mystras, Greece: Travel Guide Syros, Greece: Travel Guide Andros, Greece: Travel Guide North Macedonia to Greece - Week 4 Nafplio, Greece to the Peloponnese - Week 5 Peloponnese to the Greek Islands - Week 6 The Greek Islands - Week 7 The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8

The Beach at Agios Petros Contents Introduction Andros Town A Drive around Andros island The Beach at Agios Petros Batsi and Gavrio Hiking on Andros Car Repairs on Andros Accommodation on Andros My Other Blogs on Greece 1. Introduction to Andros Island I first heard of Andros about 4 years ago when I read a newspaper article about the wonderful hiking trails. Unfortunately when we got there the trails didn't live up to expectations. Andros isn't particularly popular with foreign tourists despite being only a 2 hour ferry ride from Athens. Another reason why we visited Andros is that we had our own car and there are several daily car ferries from Andros to Athens and Naxos. We arrived from Naxos (see my blog Naxos, Greece: Travel Guide ) . Before Naxos we visited the islands of Syros and Tinos and have done travel guides for these islands. 2. Andros Town 2.1. Parking in Andros Town The centre of Andros Town is pedestrianised and the streets around the centre are a bit narrow. There is limited parking. Google maps show 2 car parks and we went to the car park to the north of Andros Town. The car park was small and we got the last space. The car park is very convenient as it is on the seafront and near the centre. The other car park is to the west of the town centre. 2.2 What to See in Andros Town Andros Town is very attractive and juts out into the sea on a rocky spur . It isn't spoiled, or touristy, as most visitors stay on the northwest side of the island. We spent a pleasant hour or so wandering around the streets of Andros Town. There are two museums and beaches on either side of Andros town. A View of Andros Town from the Coastal Road The Main Street in Andros Town A Street in Andros Town Agios Georgios Church in Andros Town A Church in Andros Town At the back of Andros Town A Church in Andros Town A Church in Andros Town An Alley in Andros Town 3. A Drive around Andros Island We drove from the northwest of Andros island to Andros Town on the east coast. We then drove southwards to Korthi where we stopped for lunch. The road crosses back over to the west coast after Korthi and we drove up to Gavrio. The drive around Andros island took 5 hours and the scenery was beautiful. Unfortunately there were few places to pull over on the mountain roads to enjoy the views and take photos. View of Andros Town from the Road Korthi Korthi 4. The Beach at Agios Petros There are lots of good beaches on Andros island but we only visited the one at Agios Petros. It is an excellent sandy beach but it is fairly open and could be affected by wind. Most of Agios Petros beach is for public use but at the southern end there are 2 roadside tavernas that have sun loungers and umbrellas on the beach. There was no charge, but at least Eur 8 of food or beverages had to be ordered from the taverna. I think this is Eur 8 for 2 people. There was plenty of parking near these tavernas. The Beach at Agios Petros 5. Batsi and Gavrio View towards Batsi from our Accommodation 5.1. Batsi Batsi is the main resort on Andros island. There is nothing of historical interest but Batsi has been developed well. We usually had our evening meals at one of the waterfront restaurants followed by a pleasant stroll on Batsi's seafront. There is a large beach in the centre of Batsi and plenty of free parking in June. The Harbour at Batsi 5.2. Gavrio Gavrio is the port for Andros island. It is a small pleasant town with very little for visitors to do. There are free car parks at the southern end near to where the ferries dock. The Seafront at Gavrio 6. Hiking on Andros 6.1. Overview Andros was the last of the 4 Cyclades islands that we visited. On the other 3 islands the hiking trails were well signposted but often overgrown. Hiking trail 11 on Andros passed within 100 metres of our accommodation so it was the first hike we attempted. Unfortunately the first section was overgrown so we abandoned the hike. We ended up only doing one short hike on Andros island. This was due to concerns about trail maintenance and because I couldn't find circular hikes that appealed. 6.2. Planning Hikes on Andros The Andros routes website is run by volunteers who hike, and maintain the trails. There is a page that details all the hikes and another page that provides information on path maintenance . It does seem that they try to maintain the trails. The AllTrails website shows trails for 48 hikes on Andros island. They all have reviews providing useful information. If the reviews are recent they can provide a good guide to the condition of the trails. 6.3. Trail 9A - Paleopolis Archeolgical Site This short trail is described on the Androsroutes and AllTrails websites. It takes about half an hour each way and is in good condition. The Androsroutes website showed the route condition as " open, with a lot of overgrown vegetation at parts ". Bizarrely there was no overgrown vegetation in June 2023. Whereas for trail 11 the website didn't report any overgrown vegetation but we found it to be a problem. The route on the Alltrails website starts above the main road. We parked in a layby off the main road, just past the museum at Paleopolis. When driving from the north the layby is on the right hand side and has space for about 10 cars. From the layby walk back along the road to Paleopolis until you see a 9A sign pointing to the left. Don't descend the steps before that. There is a sign indicating that there is no access. Half way down you can go left or right. These paths lead to different ends of the beach. At the north end of the beach there are rocks from where a couple of people were swimming. At the far south end there is a small sandy beach, but you have to clamber over a large boulder to reach it. We didn't see any archaeological remains. A View from the Main Coastal Road at Paleopolis The Initial Steps Down Half Way Down to the Beach The Northern End of the Beach Looking towards the Southern End of the Beach On the Way Back Up A View up to the Coastal Road 7. Car Repairs on Andros We had to have the front springs and shock absorbers replaced on our car. I found AutoTechnics on the internet and the owners of our accommodation recommended them. The garage ordered the parts from Athens and they received and fitted them 2 days later. They did a good job and the cost was reasonable. It was very convenient. They are located at Agios Petros, across the road from a great beach. We spent half a day on the beach while they fixed our car. We could see our car in the workshop from our sun loungers! 8. Accommodation on Andros We stayed in a 3 bedroom house on the mountainside high above Batsi which we booked through Booking.com for Euro 65 per night. It was very good value which is probably because the house is a 10 minute drive up a steep hillside. I reviewed the accommodation on my blog " UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 2 " (number 4). 9. My Other Blogs on Greece Monemvasia, Greece: Travel Guide Mycenae, Greece: Travel Guide Tiryns, Greece: Travel Guide Epidaurus, Greece: Travel Guide Nafplio, Greece: Travel Guide Corinth, Greece: Travel Guide Delphi, Greece: Travel Guide The Monasteries of Meteora: Travel Guide Naxos, Greece: Travel Guide Mystras, Greece: Travel Guide Tinos, Greece: Travel Guide Syros, Greece: Travel Guide North Macedonia to Greece - Week 4 Nafplio, Greece to the Peloponnese - Week 5 Peloponnese to the Greek Islands - Week 6 The Greek Islands - Week 7 The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8

The Temple of Apollo We brought our UK car to Naxos by taking the car ferry from Syros (see my blog Syros, Greece: Travel Guide ). We spent 5 nights on Naxos island and it was our favourite Cyclades island. We left Naxos by taking a car ferry to the island of Andros (see my blog Andros, Greece: Travel Guide ). Contents 1. Introduction 2. Naxos Town 3. Hikes on Naxos Mount Zas (Zeus) Hike Melanes - Flerio - Potamia Hike Halki to Moni Hike 4. A Drive from Naxos Town to Apollonas Apiranthos Koronos Apollonas Kouroi at Flerio 5. The Beaches south of Naxos Town 6. Halki 7. Filoti 8. Accommodation 9. Links to My Other Blogs 1. Introduction to Naxos Island When planning our trip I was concerned that Naxos might be spoiled by tourism. Naxos Town was certainly busy in June but we still enjoyed walking around the delightful old town every evening. Naxos is the largest island in the Cyclades and there is very little tourist development on the remainder of the island. We visited 4 of the Cyclades islands and Naxos was our favourite as: Naxos Town is interesting to explore. There are many old and picturesque villages. Naxos is very scenic and mountainous. There are some excellent sandy beaches south of Naxos Town. We had a couple of good hikes including a hike up Mount Zas. This is the highest point in the Cyclades. 2. Naxos Town 2.1 Parking in Naxos Town There is a very large free car park just north of the centre of Naxos town. It is a 10 minute walk to the harbour. We always found a parking spot when we were there in early June. It is shown as " Naxos Municipal Parking " on Google maps. Be careful as there are a couple of other municipal car parks in the same area with similar names. There is a free municipal car park on the southern side of Naxos town. It is more convenient than the northern car park. It's not quite as large so it is more difficult to find a parking space. It is shown as " Municipal Parking 1 " on Google maps. 2.2 Old Naxos Town Naxos Town is a very picturesque old coastal town on a hill with a Kastro on the top. There is a maze of winding narrow streets and alleyways, some of which pass through tunnels, between the seafront esplanade and the Kastro. There are shops and restaurants on the waterfront and in the alleyways in the lower section of Naxos old town. They cater for tourists rather than locals. It is still very pleasant and interesting to wander around. It is definitely worth walking up to the Kastro but there isn't much to do or see when you get there. The only view is to the east towards the interior of Naxos. There is a cathedral at the top which was closed when we went in the evenings. There is also an Archaeological Museum in the Kastro. 2.3 The Temple of Apollo The Temple of Apollo which was built in 530 BC, but never completed, lies at the end of the causeway leading from Naxos Town. From the Temple there is an excellent view back to Naxos Town. It is a very popular place to stroll to in the evenings. 2.4. The New Section of Naxos Town & the Beaches The newer part of Naxos is south of the old town and Evripeou is the main square. The main road north of the square has shops and restaurants aimed more at locals. To the south west of Naxos's main square is the long, sandy and shallow Saint George beach. It gets good reviews on Google . The road between the square and the beach has many restaurants frequented by tourists. Grotto beach, just north of the causeway to the Temple of Apollo, is a stone beach. It is not as appealing. A View of Naxos Town from the Temple of Apollo A View of Naxos Town from the Ferry A Church in Naxos Town The Catholic Cathedral in Naxos Town Covered Alley in Naxos Town The View from the Castle in Naxos Town Covered Alley in Naxos Town A Street in Naxos Town 3. Hikes on Naxos Island There were 3 circular hikes that I wanted to do on Naxos island but we only did 2 of them. The Alltrails website provides details of many hikes on Naxos with very useful reviews. The reviews often indicate the condition of the trail. 3.1. Mount Zas (Zeus) Hike Mount Zas is 1,003 metres high and is the highest point in the Cyclades. It is a popular hike as many people like to reach the highest point. Try to do the hike up Mount Zas in good weather so you can enjoy the views from the top. We had low clouds so we couldn't see anything! There are 3 main hiking routes up Mount Zas: Hike from Ayia Marina Chapel to Mount Zas It is a 40 minute drive from Naxos Town to the Ayia Marina Chapel. There is some car parking at the small chapel and also along the road. Enter " Saint Marina Holy Chapel " on Google maps to locate the chapel. This is the easiest and quickest trail up Mount Zas and it was the one we hiked. The trail is well marked, ascends 396 metres and it took us about 2 hours and 15 minutes to reach the summit of Mount Zas. The final 15 minutes is steep and rocky. Take care not to twist an ankle. It was raining when we descended and the rocky trail was very slippery. Luckily we brought walking sticks which made it safer and faster. The Alltrails website and App show this trail up Mount Zas and it can be downloaded onto your phone. It isn't really necessary as the trail is well marked. On the way down don't take the trail forking off to Aria Spring. Hike from Aria Spring to Mount Zas It is a 40 minute drive from Naxos town to Aria Spring. Enter Fontaine d’Aria on Google maps to locate the starting point. The turn off from the main road is clearly signposted. There is limited parking on the road. The Alltrails website and App show this trail up Mount Zas. It is worth downloading the trail onto your phone as the trail isn't clear at one point . The first 20 minutes of the hike is along a paved path to the Cave of Zeus. It then becomes a rocky trail that is more difficult than the Ayia Marina trail. It ascends 484 metres to the summit of Mount Zas compared to 396 metres on the Ayia Marina trail. The hike takes about 2.5 hours. Hike from Filoti to Mount Zas This is the most difficult trail up Mount Zas and normally undertaken by people relying on public transport. The trail ascends 607 metres to the summit of Mount Zas and the hike takes about 3 hours 45 minutes. The route is shown on the Alltrails website . The Beginning of the Walk up Mount Zas Middle Section of the Walk up Mount Zas The Middle Section of the Walk up Mount Zas Near the Top of Mount Zas At the Summit of Mount Zas A View on the Descent from Mount Zas 3.2. Trail 6 Melanes - Flerio - Potamia Hike This is a beautiful walk that passes right by the archaeological site at Flerio on Naxox island. There you can see the 2 famous kouroi dating back to 570 BC. See my blog for further details. You will pass through the pretty and unspoiled villages of Ano Potomia and Mesi Potomia. We hiked clockwise from Melanes and the trail is marked with a red dot and a red number 6 until Mesi Potomia. After that it helps to use the AllRoutes app for a section of the trail. The hike took us 3 hours and 15 minutes. We didn't stop to see the kouroi at Flerio as we were wet from the rain. The hike can be shortened by taking other trails from east to west before reaching Ano Potamia. These trails are shown on the AllRoutes App. The first section from Melanes is down a steep, wet and slippery path and it wasn't raining at the time. Hiking poles would definitely help. The next section was a bit overgrown but after that the trail was very good. The trail descends steeply to Ano Potamia and then climbs up to Mesi Potomia. It is an easy walk once you reach the dirt road after Mesi Potomia. Village of Melanes on Naxos On the Path between Melanes and Flerio Cacti on the Path The Path going down to Ano Potamia Kato Potamia Melanes Village on Naxos Island 3.3 Trail 4 - Halki to Moni Circular Hike I planned to do this hike as it seemed to be an interesting circular hike. Sadly we ran out of time. The route is detailed on the AllRoutes website . The reviews of this route indicate that in 2023: About 30% of it isn't well maintained. The second section of the trail on AllRoutes trail isn't correct and the signs for trail 4 and 4A should be followed instead. The hike takes 3 to 4 hours. Other useful information about this hike is on the Tripadvisor forum and the Cycladen website . 4. A Drive from Naxos Town to Apollonas We took the inland route north up to Apollonas and stopped off at Apiranthos and Koronos. We drove back south on Naxos's coastal road and turned off to see the kouri at Flerio. The drive took about 6.5 hours and it was very scenic. It was tiring driving on Naxos's mountainous roads and there were very few places to pull over to take photos and to enjoy the views. 4.1. Apiranthos We thought that Apiranthos was the prettiest and most interesting village on Naxos island. Apiranthos is quite large and we spent an hour walking around the alleyways. There aren't any particular sights to see. We reached Apiranthos before 10.00 a.m. and there were very few other visitors. There were several restaurants and shops so I am sure Apiranthos would be busy later in the day. There was parking along the main road. A View on the Drive to Apiranthos Apiranthos Apiranthos Apiranthos Apiranthos Apiranthos Apiranthos Apiranthos Apiranthos 4.2. Koronos Koronos is a pretty village but not nearly as interesting as Apiranthos. There is a nice taverna at the bottom of the village, with a good outdoor seating area, but there is no tourism infrastructure. I don't think Koronos is worth visiting. We parked on the main road and walked down a steep road to the bottom of the Koronos and then back up a different way. We couldn't find a car park. Koronos Agia Marina Church in Koronos Koronos 4.3. Apollonas There is limited free parking at the southern end of Apollonas. Apollonas is a modern, and not very pretty, village with a couple of beaches. Tavernas surround the beach in the centre of Apollonas. There is not a lot to see or do in Apollonas but it would be a good place to have a swim. Apollonas Apollonas Apollonas 4.4. Kouroi at Flerio Flerio is a 25 minute drive from Naxos Town. Enter " Faragi Kouros " in Google maps to obtain directions. The parking area and the entrance to the Kouroi are free. Kouroi are sculptures of men. There are 2 kouroi at Flerio and they date back to 570 BC. These 5 metre long kouroi were unfinished due to damage to the stone. There is an ancient sanctuary nearby which dates back to the 7th century BC. There is very little left to see. The marble quarry high up in the hill above the site is much more impressive. It takes about 30 minutes to see the 2 kouroi and the ancient sanctuary at Flerio. They can be visited when doing the circular hike from Melanes to Potamia . A Marble quarry near Flerio Kouros of Flerio Kouros of Faranghi at Flerio 5. The Beaches south of Naxos There are some excellent beaches on Naxos Island and the best ones are south of Naxos Town. We drove south to Agiassos on the tarred interior road that goes via Galanado and Ano Sagri. We then drove up the coastal road to Naxos Town and stopped off at the beaches on the way. 5.1. Agiassos Beach There is a dirt road from Agiassos to Alkyo which is suitable for saloon cars. We swam at Agiassos beach and had the long beach to ourselves. It is a lovely sandy beach but there are sections with rocks in the water. Agiassos Beach 5.2. Alkyo and Hawaii Beach Our next stop was at Alkyo to see the famous Hawaii beach. There are 2 beaches on either side of the promontory at Alkyo. The beach on the southern side had a car park. Hawaii beach is across the road on the northern side. It is known as Hawaii beach due to the vibrant blue colour of the sea. There are no facilities at either of these beaches. Hawaii Beach Near Hawaii Beach 5.3. Mikri Vigla/Orkos Beach There are long sandy beaches on either side of the promontory. The beaches at Mikri Vigla and Orkos are both popular with kite surfers. We spent an enjoyable hour watching people learning to kite surf. It wouldn't be a relaxing place to sunbathe with the kites hovering above the beach. Mikri Vigla Beach 5.4. Agia Anna Beach The beach at Agia Anna was the most developed beach that we saw during our drive along the beaches south west of Naxos Town. This isn't surprising given its close proximity to Naxos Town. It merges into Agios Prokopios beach to the north. Agios Prokopios beach is said to be an excellent beach but we didn't visit it. Agia Anna Beach 6. Halki The village of Halki is very popular with tourists. It has several Byzantine churches including the 9th century Church of Panagia Protothronos. Halki is a pretty village but a bit touristy. There is a large free car park on the north eastern edge of Halki. Halki Halki Thge Main Square in Halki Halki A Church in Halki Church of Panagia Protothronos in Halki 7. Filoti Filoti is a popular village and there is a large free car park on the left side of the road when driving from Naxos Town. There isn't much to see in Filoti and half an hour is sufficient for wandering around. The main sight in Filoti is the Church of Panaglia Filotitissa which was built in 1718. Entry to the interior is free. The Church of Panaglia Filotitissa in Filoti The Church of The Interior of Panaglia Filotitissa in Filoti 8. Accommodation We stayed in an excellent 2 bedroom apartment in the village of Galanado. It was a 10 minute drive to Naxos Town. We booked it through Booking.com and paid Eur 75 per night. My review of the accommodation is on my blog " UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 2 " (number 2). 9. Links to My Other Blogs about Greece Monemvasia, Greece: Travel Guide Mycenae, Greece: Travel Guide Tiryns, Greece: Travel Guide Epidaurus, Greece: Travel Guide Nafplio, Greece: Travel Guide Corinth, Greece: Travel Guide Delphi, Greece: Travel Guide The Monasteries of Meteora: Travel Guide Mystras, Greece: Travel Guide Tinos, Greece: Travel Guide Syros, Greece: Travel Guide Andros, Greece: Travel Guide North Macedonia to Greece - Week 4 Nafplio, Greece to the Peloponnese - Week 5 Peloponnese to the Greek Islands - Week 6 The Greek Islands - Week 7 The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8

Monemvasia We drove from Nafplio to Monemvasia and stopped off at the archaeological sites of Tiryns , Mycenae and Mystras on the way. Contents of Monemvasia Travel Guide Introduction to Monemvasia Parking in Monemvasia What to See in the Lower Town What to See in the Upper Town A Hike around Monemvasia Accommodation in Monemvasia Links to My Other Blogs on Greece 1. Introduction to Monemvasia Monemvasia is a spectacular fortified island town. At its peak it had a population of 60,000 people. Monemvasia was founded by the Byzantines in the 6th century and it remained in their possession for almost 700 years. Monemvasia fell to the Ottomans in 1540 and was under their control for almost 300 years, except for a brief 25 year period of Venetian rule. In 1821 Monemvasia's fortress fell to the Greeks in the War of Independence and the Turks were massacred. The fortress town of Monemvasia is definitely worth a visit. The Lower Town is well preserved. Monemvasia's Upper Town has the 12th century Church of Hagia Sophia, ruins and fantastic views. A half day is needed to see both the Lower and Upper Towns. You can easily spend a whole day there as there are beaches at new Monemvasia and there is a hike around the island. There are no entrance fees for visiting Monemvasia's Lower and Upper Towns. 2. Parking in Monemvasia Monemvasia's entire lower town is pedestrianised. You can park on the road between the causeway and the ancient gate into the lower town. It can be difficult to find a parking place. Alternatively you can park in the new town and walk across the causeway. From there it is a 20 minute walk to Monemvasia's old town. 3. What to See in Monemvasia's Lower Town Monemvasia's Lower Town once had forty churches and over 800 houses. Only a few of the churches remain but there are still a lot of buildings and an intricate network of alleys. The western fortified entrance gate is narrow and Z shaped for defence purposes. When we arrived we weren't even sure there was a way through! There is a single main street leading from the gate to the main square. It is lined with cafes, restaurants and souvenir shops. The main square is a beautiful public area with a Byzantine church, a museum housed in a 16th century church and a cannon in the centre. There are places to sit at the far end to enjoy the square and views of the Upper Town. You can walk through Monemvasia to the eastern gate. If you walk through the gate and continue eastwards you will reach the lighthouse. See the section on hikes . From the eastern gates you can follow the southern wall back to the centre of Monemvasia's Lower Town. You can walk along the top of the wall in places. We spent an hour wandering around Monemvasia's Lower Town. Monemvasia Island The Main Street in Monemvasia's Lower Town. Monemvasia's Main Square Church of Christ Elkomenos in Lower Monemvasia Canon Ball Bowling! Monemvasia's Lower Town Panagia Chrysafitissa Church in Monemvasia's Lower Town Monemvasia's Lower Town The Eastern Wall at Monemvasia 4. What to See in Monemvasia's Upper Town Monemvasia's Upper Town was the home of the Monemvasia aristocracy. During the 17th century A.D. there were more than 500 mansions. Very little remains today except stone ruins and the Church of Hagia Sophia. It is a 10 to 15 minute steep walk to the Upper Town. There are good views of the Lower Town on the way up. Halfway up is an impressive tunnel and entrance gate. The church of Hagia Sophia was built in the 12th century A.D. and has been recently restored. It is the most important building in Monemvasia. It is reported to only be open at weekends but we went on a Friday and it was open. The Citadel is at the very top, which is about 300 metres above sea level. The ruins aren't that impressive but it is worth going for the views. We spent just under 2 hours seeing Monemvasia's Upper Town, including the walk up. The Path to Monemvasia's Upper Town A Tunnel on Way to Monemvasia's Upper Town A View of Monemvasia's Lower Town on the way to Upper Town The Church of Hagia Sophia in Monemvasia's Upper Town The Interior of Hagia Sophia Church The Citadel in Monemvasia View of New Monemvasia from Monemvasia's Citadel A View of Monemvasia's Lower Town from the Upper Town A View of the Tunnel and Gate between Monemvasia's Lower and Upper Towns 5. A Hike around Monemvasia You can hike around the island of Monemvasia. The full circuit is around 4 kilometres and would take about an hour. The route is described on the Alltrails website , although this route also includes a walk up to Monemvasia's Upper Town. Other options would be to: Walk along the south side of the island from the east gate of lower Monemvasia to the lighthouse and return the same way. This would probably take half an hour. Walk along the northern shore from the causeway to the lighthouse and return the same way. This route is described on the Alltrails website . 6. Accommodation in Monemvasia Accommodation in Monemvasia's Old Town is expensive. We booked a small apartment in Monemvasia's new town which is on the other side of the causeway. It was a 20 minute walk to the Old Town. We booked through Booking.com and paid Eur 53 per night. My review of this apartment is on the blog " UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 1 " (number 15). 7. Links to My Other Blogs on Greece Mycenae, Greece: Travel Guide Tiryns, Greece: Travel Guide Epidaurus, Greece: Travel Guide Nafplio, Greece: Travel Guide Corinth, Greece: Travel Guide Delphi, Greece: Travel Guide The Monasteries of Meteora: Travel Guide Naxos, Greece: Travel Guide Mystras, Greece: Travel Guide Tinos, Greece: Travel Guide Syros, Greece: Travel Guide Andros, Greece: Travel Guide North Macedonia to Greece - Week 4 Nafplio, Greece to the Peloponnese - Week 5 Peloponnese to the Greek Islands - Week 6 The Greek Islands - Week 7 The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8

The Palace of the Despots We drove from Nafplio to Monemvasia and stopped off at the archaeological sites of Tiryns , Mycenae and Mystras on the way. Contents Brief History of Mystras Parking and Toilets Opening Hours Tickets Finding your Way around Mystras What to See My Other Blogs on Greece 1. Brief History of Mystras Mystras was founded in the 13th century by the Franks who established a fortress on top of the hill. They were expelled from the Peloponnese in 1262 by the Byzantine Emperor who incorporated Mystras into the Byzantine Empire. Mystras soon became a thriving centre of art, culture and intellectual pursuits. Magnificent palaces, churches and monasteries were constructed, including the Palace of the Despots, the Church of Agios Demetrios and the Pantanassa Monastery In 1460, the Ottomans captured Mystras, marking the end of Byzantine rule in the Peloponnese. They occupied Mystras until 1821, except for a short period of Venetian control from 1687 to 1715. In 1770 Mystras joined a Peloponnese uprising against the Ottomans. It was suppressed by the Ottoman Albanians and Mystras was left in ruins. The final blow for Mystras came in 1823 when the Egyptians, who were aiding the Ottomans during the Greek War of Independence, massacred the local population and destroyed the town. In 1831 the town was rebuilt 9 km away and named Sparti. 2. Parking & Toilets at Mystras There is parking along the road at both the lower and upper entrances at Mystras. There are only toilets at the lower entrance gate. View of the Upper Parking Area View of the Lower Parking Area at Mystras, Greece. 3. Opening Hours at Mystras Winter (1 November to 31 March) 08:30-15:30 Summer (1 April to 31 October) 08:00-20:00 Holidays 1 January 25 March 1 May Easter Sunday 25 December 26 December 4. Tickets for Mystras Cost Tickets for Mystras cost Eur 20. Admission to Mystras is free for EU citizens up to the age of 25. From October 1 to 31 May a 50% reduction is granted to over 65's from EU countries. Documentary proof is required for these reductions. Admission to Mystras is free for everyone on the following days: 6 March 18 April 18 May The last weekend of September 28 October Every first Sunday from November 1st to March 31st 5. Finding your Way around Mystras You can start at either the lower or upper entrance of Mystras and it is best to follow a circular route. Some people struggle with the paths which are rocky and steep in places. It is worse in the summer heat. Some visitors therefore park at Mystras's lower gate to see the lower site and then drive up to the upper gate to see the remainder of Mystras, or vice versa. Tickets for Mystras are valid at both entrances. People with mobility issues often skip seeing the citadel. Tour groups usually start at Mystra's upper site and walk down to the lower site where they are met by their tour bus. Good shoes are advisable. It is a good idea to bring a site map and water in the summer. Map of Mystras 6. What to See at Mystras It is really worth visiting Mystras and the site can be seen in about 3 hours. Mystras's surviving buildings are mainly churches and monasteries. There is also a castle and a large palace that has been closed for renovations for over 20 years. All the other buildings at Mystras are in ruins. Metropolis of Mystras The Metropolis of Mystras is located near the lower entrance and it dates back to the late 13th century. There is a museum that exhibits sculptures, holy icons, byzantine objects and fragments from some of the other churches. Metropolis of Mystras Metropolis of Mystras Peribleptos Monastery This Byzantine church is slightly off the main circuit for Mystras and as a result it doesn't attract many visitors. It has some very attractive frescoes and is well worth seeing. Peribleptos Monastery Church of Agios Dimitrios The church of Agios Dimitrios was built in 1292 and it is the oldest church in Mystras. Church of Agios Dimitrios The Pantanassa Monastery The nuns at Pantanassa monastery are the only remaining residents of Mystras. The other residents were moved out in 1952. The church was built in 1428 and is the finest surviving church in Mystras. It has some excellent frescoes. The Pantanassa Monastery at Mystras The Interior of Pantanassa Monastery Pantanassa Monastery at Mystras The Despots' Palace The Despot's Palace is the main surviving building in Mystras and it was built in the late 14th century. It has now been closed for renovation for at least 20 years. The 2004 edition of the Rough Guide stated that it was " currently closed for extensive rebuilding and restoration that looks set to continue for a number of years ahead ". I doubt they thought it would be closed for quite so long! It should be the main attraction at Mystras once it is reopened. Looking up to the Despots' Palace Palace of the Despots, Mystras Church of Agia Sophia Agia Sophia Church was built in the mid-14th century. The Ottomans used it as a mosque. Church of Agia Sophia, Mystras The Interior of the Agia Sophia Church Mystras Castle You can wander around the ruins of Mystras Castle and there are good views. A View of the Palace of Despots from the Citadel Church of Agioi Theodoroi The Church of Agioi Theodoroi is the oldest and largest chapel in Mystras. The church was constructed between 1290 and 1295. Church of Hagioi Theodoroi Church of the Hodegetria The 14th century Church of the Hodegetria was part of the Brontochion Monastery. During the Ottoman period it was converted into a mosque. Hodegetria Interior of the Hodegetria 7. My Other Blogs on Greece Monemvasia, Greece: Travel Guide Mycenae, Greece: Travel Guide Tiryns, Greece: Travel Guide Epidaurus, Greece: Travel Guide Nafplio, Greece: Travel Guide Corinth, Greece: Travel Guide Delphi, Greece: Travel Guide The Monasteries of Meteora: Travel Guide Naxos, Greece: Travel Guide Tinos, Greece: Travel Guide Syros, Greece: Travel Guide Andros, Greece: Travel Guide North Macedonia to Greece - Week 4 Nafplio, Greece to the Peloponnese - Week 5 Peloponnese to the Greek Islands - Week 6 The Greek Islands - Week 7 The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8

The Theatre at Epidaurus We visited Epidaurus while staying in Nafplio ( Nafplio, Greece: Travel Guide ) as it is only a 30 minute drive from there. Many people also visit the archaeological sites of Tiryns ( Tiryns: Travel Guide ) and Mycenae ( Mycenae: Travel Guide ) on the same day. Contents of the Epidaurus Travel Guide Opening Hours for Epidaurus Best Time to visit Epidaurus Tickets Getting to Epidaurus, Parking and Toilets A Brief History of Epidaurus What to See My Other Blogs on Greece 1. Opening Hours for Epidaurus Winter From November to February: 08:00-17:00 March: 08:00-18:00 Summer: April : 08:00-19:00 From 2 May - 31 October: 08:00 - 20:00 Holidays 1 January 25 March 1 May Easter Sunday 25 December 26 December 2. Best Time to visit Epidaurus We arrived at 08.30 and virtually had the Epidaurus to ourselves. The first tour group arrived at 09.15 and others soon followed! It is best to arrive at Epidaurus early or late to avoid the tour groups and the heat in summer. However, in summertime they have evening shows and they start preparing the theatre in the late afternoon. That isn't good for photos. If you arrive at the start of the day see Epidaurus's theatre first before it becomes crowded. Conversely if you visit later leave visiting the theatre until the end so more people will have left the site. We took our time and spent 2 hours at Epidaurus to justify the high entrance fee! You could certainly see everything at Epidaurus in 1.5 hours. 3. Tickets for Epidaurus The ticket prices for Epidaurus have been significantly increased and tickets now costs Eur 20. Admission is free for EU citizens up to the age of 25. From October 1 to 31 May a 50% reduction is granted to over 65's from EU countries. Documentary proof is required for these reductions. Admission to Epidaurus is free on the following days: 6 March 18 April 18 May The last weekend of September 28 October Every first and third Sunday from November 1st to March 31st 4. Travelling to Epidaurus, Parking and Toilets Epidaurus is a 30 minute drive from Nafplio through pretty rural countryside. There is plenty of free parking and there are free toilets near Epidaurus's entrance gate. 5. A Brief History of Epidaurus According to ancient Greek mythology, Epidaurus was the birthplace of Asklepios, the healing god and son of Apollo. Epidaurus was the most popular healing center in antiquity. In the sanctuary, there was a temple, dormitories and baths to help patients recover from various diseases. Epidaurus's heyday was in the fourth and third centuries BC. The main monuments date back to the 4th century BC. In 395 AD Epidaurus was sacked by the Goths and 30 years later it was closed by Emperor Theodosius II as it was a pagan sanctuary. 6. What to See at Epidaurus 6.1. The Theatre at Epidaurus The theatre is the main attraction at Epidaurus and it is spectacular. It was built in 340 BC and is the best preserved theatre in Greece. The theatre has a capacity of about 14,000 spectators. Epidaurus's theatre is famous for its remarkable acoustics which allows voices to be heard from the stage all the way to the last row. All groups, and a lot of individual visitors, try to demonstrate the acoustics. They either drop a pebble on the stone in the centre of the stage, clap or sing! It is entertaining, although in peak season the guards stop people singing. The Theatre at Epidaurus 6.2. The Propylon The Propylon is the outer monumental gateway to Epidaurus's gymnasium. The Propylon 6.3. The Temple of Asklepios The temple of Asklepios was built in the early 4th century BC. The Temple of Asklepios 6.4. The Abaton The Abaton is a 2 level structure and you can enter the lower part of the building. Patients would sleep here awaiting a visitation from the healing god, which was believed to be a serpent. Harmless snakes were released at night for this purpose. The Abaton 6.5. The Stadium at Epidaurus Epidaurus's stadium was constructed in the 5th century B.C. to host the nude athletic games! These games were hosted every four years to honour Asklepius, the god of healing. The participants and spectators were mainly pilgrims at Epidaurus's sanctuary. The Stadium 6.6. The Museum at Epidaurus The entrance ticket for Epidaurus's main site includes entry to the small and interesting museum. The Museum 7. My Other Blogs on Greece Monemvasia, Greece: Travel Guide Mycenae, Greece: Travel Guide Tiryns, Greece: Travel Guide Nafplio, Greece: Travel Guide Corinth, Greece: Travel Guide Delphi, Greece: Travel Guide The Monasteries of Meteora: Travel Guide Naxos, Greece: Travel Guide Mystras, Greece: Travel Guide Tinos, Greece: Travel Guide Syros, Greece: Travel Guide Andros, Greece: Travel Guide North Macedonia to Greece - Week 4 Nafplio, Greece to the Peloponnese - Week 5 Peloponnese to the Greek Islands - Week 6 The Greek Islands - Week 7 The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8

The Temple of Apollo Our visit to Delphi was part of a 3 month road trip from the UK to the Greece. We drove to Delphi after visiting the famous monasteries at Meteora . We have also done travel guides for the following archaeological sites in Greece: Mycenae Tiryns Epidaurus Mystras Contents of Delphi Travel Guide When to Visit Delphi Entrance Tickets Opening Hours Parking & Toilets Delphi's Main Archaeological Site Delphi's Museum The Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia Accommodation My Other Blogs on Greece 1. When to Visit Delphi The main factors to consider when visiting Delphi are the heat and the crowds: 1.1. The Heat at Delphi From mid June to mid September it is likely to be very hot and tiring walking up and around Delphi's archaeological site. The solution would be to visit early or late in the day. If you visit early aim to get there when Delphi opens at 08.00. Walk around the archaeological site first and the museum afterwards If you visit Delphi later get to the ticket office between 17.00 and 17.30 and visit the museum first. Unless you have a special interest in archaeology 2.5 hours is sufficient to see the museum, the main archaeological site and the Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia. 1.2. Crowds at Delphi The main problem at Delphi is tour groups and there can be many of them! Just 2 to 3 large groups in the museum can spoil your experience as it will be crowded and noisy. There is more space at the archaeological site but large groups can still spoil your visit. The way to avoid the tour groups at Delphi is to come at opening time or later in the day. Many tours come from Athens. They won't arrive until mid morning and will leave mid to late afternoon. We visited Delphi in the off season (mid May) and when we arrived at 14.45 we saw the last of the tour buses leaving. 2. Entrance Tickets at Delphi The admission cost is Eur 20 and the ticket covers both the archaeological site and the museum at Delphi. There are 2 ticket offices and some ticket machines. If there is a long queue at one ticket office try the other one. Admission is free for EU citizens up to the age of 25. From October 1 to 31 May a 50% reduction is granted to over 65's from EU countries. Documentary proof is required for these reductions. There is no charge for visiting Delphi on 6 March, 18 April, 18 May, the last weekend of September, 28 October, and every first Sunday of each month from November 1st until March 31st. 3. Opening Hours at Delphi Summer (1 April to 31 October) Delphi is open from 08.00 to 20.00 every day except Tuesdays. On Tuesdays Delphi's opening hours are 10.00 to 17.00. Winter (1 November to 31 March) Delphi is open from 08.30 to 15.30. The exceptions to this are: 1 January: closed 6 January: 08:30 - 15:30 Shrove Monday: 08:30 - 15:30 25 March: closed Good Friday: 12:00 - 17:00, Last admission 16:40 Holy Saturday: 08:30 - 15:30, Last admission 15:10 1 May: closed Easter Sunday: closed 15 August: 08:00 - 20:00 25 December: closed 26 December: closed 4. Parking & Toilets at Delphi There is a small free car park near Delphi's museum but if it's full you have to park on the road. It can be difficult to find a vacant spot and that is another reason to avoid peak times. There are modern and clean free toilets outside Delphi's museum but none in the archaeological site. 5. Delphi's Main Archaeological Site Delphi's archaeological site is on a hill with the stadium at the top. Some visitors and tour groups don't walk up to the stadium but I think it is worth the effort. It took us slightly more than an hour to see everything on Delphi's main archaeological site. There were a lot of ruins but Delphi was one of the most interesting ancient archaeological sites that we saw in Greece. The main things to see are: 5.1. The Treasury of the Athenians This is the first building that you will encounter as you walk up the site. This impressive building was constructed to house offerings to the sanctuary of Apollo. It was originally built in 490 BC and was completely reconstructed in 1906. The Treasury of the Athenians 5.2. The Temple of Apollo The Temple of Apollo dates back to the 4th century BC. There are only six columns standing and they were re-erected after the temple was uncovered in the late 1800's. The Temple of Apollo at Delphi 5.3. The Serpent Column The Serpent Column was an offering dedicated to Apollo at Delphi in 447 BC by the 31 Greek city-states which had fought in the Battle of Plataea. In 324 BC it was moved to Constantinople by Constantine I the Great and it is still there. In 2015 a replica of the column was made and erected at Delphi. The Serpent Column at Delphi 5.4. The Theatre Delphi's impressive theatre was constructed in the 4th century BC and it could seat 5,000 people. The Theatre at Delphi 5.5. The Stadium Delphi's stadium was built in the 4th century BC and is in a scenic location. The Stadium at Delphi 6. The Museum at Delphi Some people recommend visiting Delphi's museum first so you can obtain an understanding of the archaeological site. However, apart from an illustration of what the site may have looked like in ancient times the information at the museum was only about the artifacts on display. I am not a huge fan of museums but I enjoyed Delphi's. It is in a modern building and the artifacts are well displayed. We visited the museum first and wandered around for 45 minutes. There were some interesting displays, but a lot of the narrative was complex and difficult to understand. Charioteer of Delphi The Twin Kouroi The Sphinx of Naxos Statue of a Philosopher 7. The Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia The Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia is a 10 minute walk, or a 2 minute drive, east along the main road from Delphi's museum. Entrance is free. The main thing to see is the ancient Tholos which is a circular building with a conical or vaulted roof. The Tholos 8. Accommodation at Delphi We stayed in the pretty town of Arachova which is a 10 minute drive from Delphi. We booked a 1 bedroom apartment through Booking.com at a cost of Eur 45.50 per night. See my review on the blog " UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 1 " 9. My Other Blogs on Greece Monemvasia, Greece: Travel Guide Mycenae, Greece: Travel Guide Tiryns, Greece: Travel Guide Epidaurus, Greece: Travel Guide Nafplio, Greece: Travel Guide Corinth, Greece: Travel Guide The Monasteries of Meteora: Travel Guide Naxos, Greece: Travel Guide Mystras, Greece: Travel Guide Tinos, Greece: Travel Guide Syros, Greece: Travel Guide Andros, Greece: Travel Guide North Macedonia to Greece - Week 4 Nafplio, Greece to the Peloponnese - Week 5 Peloponnese to the Greek Islands - Week 6 The Greek Islands - Week 7 The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8

Acrocorinth Contents Introduction Corinth Canal Acrocorinth Ancient Corinth Links to My Other Blogs on Greece 1. Introduction We visited Corinth while we were staying at nearby Nafplio. We opted not to stay in Corinth as it isn't a particularly attractive city. It is definitely worth a visit to see the spectacular Corinth canal, the fortress of Acrocorinth and ancient Corinth. It takes about 4 to 5 hours to see these 3 sights. 2. Corinth Canal The 6 kilometre long Corinth canal was opened in 1893. It provides a short cut for vessels sailing between the Aegean and Ionian seas. Corinth canal is a spectacular sight. Unfortunately you rarely see ships sailing on the canal nowadays as it isn't wide enough for most commercial vessels. The best view of Corinth Canal is from the bridge at the northern end of the isthmus. Enter" Díolkos " on Google maps to locate it. There is free parking on the eastern side of the bridge where there are several restaurants. There is a path on both sides of the bridge for viewing Corinth canal. The Corinth Canal 3. Acrocorinth 3.1. About Acrocorinth Acrocorinth is the ancient acropolis of Corinth and dates back to the 7th century BC. The Romans destroyed Acrocorinth in 146 BC and then rebuilt it in 44 BC. Fortifications and buildings were erected and added to over the centuries by the Romans, Byzantines, Crusaders, Franks, Venetians and Turks. Acrocorinth is a massive site on top of the mountain and still largely encircled by 2 kilometres of defensive walls. Acrocorinth is definitely worth visiting to see the fortifications, historic buildings and the views. 3.2. How to get to Acrocorinth Acrocorinth is a 15 minute drive from modern Corinth and the final 5 minutes is up a steep paved road. There is a free car park at the top. From there it is a 5 minute walk on some slippery stones to the entrance gate in the fortifications. 3.3. Opening Times & Entrance Fee for Acrocorinth Acrocorinth is open from 08.30 to 15.30 each day. Surprisingly it is free to enter. I cannot see this large site getting crowded even in peak season. The slippery stones and the walk up the hill means that there will be very few tour groups. 3.4. What to See at Acrocorinth We spent an hour and 45 minutes exploring Acrocorinth's large site. The rocky paths, particularly from the car park to the entrance, can be very slippery. Wear good footwear and be careful. If it is raining it would be advisable to postpone your visit. There is very little shade. The main things to see are: Acrocorinth's Fortifications The double wall fortifications are the most impressive feature of Acrocorinth. You get a good view of them from the Frankish Tower at the top of the mountain. Also if you turn right after the entrance gate you can walk on a section of the walls. When looking back the walls are very impressive. The Path to the Entrance of Acrocorinth Acrocorinth's Walls The Chapel of St Dimitrios This small chapel was built in the 17th century. The Chapel of St Dimitrios The Interior of the Chapel of St Dimitrios Acrocorinth Mosque or Sultan Ahme d III Mosque This mosque was commissioned by Sultan Ahmed III after the Ottoman reconquest of 1715. You cannot enter the mosque but you can look into the interior. Acrocorinth Mosque The Interior of Acrocorinth Mosque The Southwestern (Frankish) Tower The exact date of its construction isn't known but it was during the Frankish occupation of Greece in the 13th and 14th centuries. The Frankish tower was restored in 2014. It is possible to enter the Frankish Tower and climb up. You cannot get onto the roof nor see any views. There are good views from the area outside the Frankish Tower. The Southwestern (Frankish) Tower The Interior of the Southwestern (Frankish) Tower A View from the Frankish Tower A view from the Frankish Tower 4. Ancient Corinth 4.1. About Ancient Corinth Ancient Corinth is a 10 minute drive from modern Corinth and is below the Acrocorinth. Corinth was raised to the ground by the Romans in 146 BC and then rebuilt in 44 BC. It was a large city and became the capital of Greece in the Roman era. The city declined after it was plundered in 1147. Ancient Corinth is a massive archaeological site but is mostly overgrown ruins. It is still very impressive and worth a visit to see the Temple of Apollo, Fountain of Peirene, the main street (Lechaion Way) and the museum. 4.2. Opening Hours and Entrance Fee Both the site and the museum for ancient Corinth open at 08.00 and close at 20.00 in the peak season. It closes slightly earlier at other times. See the odysseus.culture website for details There is an entrance fee of Eur 15 and this covers both the site and the museum for ancient Corinth. 4.3. Parking and Toilets There is free parking and toilets are outside the museum. 4.4. What to See You can spend 1 to 2 hours at Ancient Corinth. There is an interesting museum. The other main sites to see are: 4.5. The Temple of Apollo This impressive temple was built in the 5th century BC and has 7 Doric columns. The Temple of Apollo 4.6. The Main Road (Lechaion Way) This was the main north-south artery of the Roman city. It linked Corinth with the harbour of Lechaion on the Corinthian gulf 3 kilometers to the north. Lechaion Way 4.7. Peirene Fountain The beautiful Peirene Fountain was constructed by the Romans. It had been a simple spring for many centuries before that. The Romans added a grandiose façade, a great court, and an open-air basin holding 81,000 gallons of water. The Fountain of Peirene was the city’s most important water supply. Peirene Fountain 5. Links to my other blogs on Greece Monemvasia, Greece: Travel Guide Mycenae, Greece: Travel Guide Tiryns, Greece: Travel Guide Epidaurus, Greece: Travel Guide Nafplio, Greece: Travel Guide Delphi, Greece: Travel Guide The Monasteries of Meteora: Travel Guide Naxos, Greece: Travel Guide Mystras, Greece: Travel Guide Tinos, Greece: Travel Guide Syros, Greece: Travel Guide Andros, Greece: Travel Guide North Macedonia to Greece - Week 4 Nafplio, Greece to the Peloponnese - Week 5 Peloponnese to the Greek Islands - Week 6 The Greek Islands - Week 7 The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8

Bourtzi Fort Contents Nafplio Town Akronafplia Fortress Palimidi Fortress Accommodation in Nafplio Excursions from Nafplio My Other Blogs on Greece 1. Nafplio Town Nafplio is an attractive upmarket destination with many designer shops. It is a popular weekend retreat for Athenians. It is very pleasant wandering through Nafplio's streets and along the waterfront. From Nafplio's harbour there is the iconic view of Bourtzi Castle which sits on a small island. It is particularly special at night time when it is lit up. It was recently renovated and was opened to the public in August 2023. It costs Eur 7 to enter Bourtzi Castle and the return boat ride costs another Eur 5. The boat only leaves when there are at least 4 people. It is only a 10 minute boat ride each way from the centre of Nafplio. Parking can be difficult in Nafplio. We used to park on the road called 25is Martiou . It's a wide street and in the off season we always found a place to park. The Waterfront at Nafplio The Waterfront at Nafplio Nafplio with Palimidi Fortress in the Background 2. Akronafplia Fortress Akronafplia fortress is the oldest part of Nafplio and until the 13th century it was a town. The Franks and Venetians made it part of the Nafplio's fortifications. There is a road to Akronafplia fortress from the south side of central Nafplio. You can drive up and there is limited free parking. Most people walk and it is only a 10 minute walk along the road to the top of the 85 metre high fortress. There is no entrance fee and it's always open. Akronafplia fortress hasn't been well maintained and there is very little to see apart from the fantastic views of Nafplio, Bourtzi Castle and Palamidi Fortress. A View of Palimidi Fortress from Akronafplia Fortress A View of Nafplio A View of Bourtzi Fort There is an Abundance of Prickly Pears 3. Palimidi Fortress 3.1. About Palimidi Fortress The Venetians completed the construction of Palimidi fortress in 1714. Just one year later the Ottomans captured it. They held Palimidi fortress until the Greeks won the war for their independence in 1822. 3.2. What to See at Palimidi Fortress It is definitely worth visiting Palimidi Fortress and it took us 1 hour to explore it. You should visit early or late to avoid the heat and the tour buses. The main, and well preserved, part of Palimidi fortress is by the entrance gate. On the bell tower there is a plaque with the emblem of Venice, the winged lion of Saint Mark. You can enter the small cell where Theodoros Kolokotronis, a hero in the Greek war of independence, was imprisoned. There are excellent views from the large terrace. Tour groups mainly visit this main part of Palimidi fortress but there is a lot more to explore. The remainder of Palimidi Fortress consists of fortified walls and ruins with superb sea views. The paths are a bit rough at times. Unfortunately there are very few signs at the site providing information about Palimidi fortress. 3.3. How to get to Palimidi Fortress The hard way is to climb 999 steps, and ascend 216 metres, from the centre of Nafplio. We took the easy option of driving up the good road to Palimidi fortress! Another option would be to take a taxi for the 10 minute drive up. There is a small free parking lot at the top and if it is full you can park along the road. 3.4. Entrance Fee, Opening Hours and Toilets In summer Palimidi fortress is open from 08.00 to 20.00 and the entrance fee is Eur 20. There is a reduced ticket charge of Eur 10 for certain categories of visitors. You can find more details of the hours and tickets on the odysseus.culture.gr website. There is a portable toilet in the parking lot and there are better toilets inside Palimidi fortress near the entrance. Night View of Palimidi Fortress from our Apartment View towards Nafplio from Palimidi Fortress The Main Part of Palimidi Fortress A plaque with the Emblem of Venice's Lion is below the Bell 4. Accommodation in Nafplio We booked a very spacious 1 bedroom apartment in Nafplio through Booking.com at a cost of Eur 77 per night for 3 nights. The apartment was on 2 levels and was fantastic. I reviewed it on my blog " UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 1 " (number 14). 5. Excursions from Nafplio We used Nafplio as a base to see the famous archaeological sites in the vicinity: 5.1. Epidaurus It is only a 30 minute scenic drive from Nafplio to the archaeological site at Epidaurus. The highlight of Epidaurus is the theatre dating back to 340 BC. See my blog Epidaurus, Greece: Travel Guide for further information. The Ancient Theatre at Epidaurus 5.2. Corinth It's an hour drive from Nafplio to Corinth where there is a lot to see in the area. In the new town of Corinth the only worthwhile site is the spectacular Corinth Canal. Acrocorinth is located a few kilometres away from the new town and  is the ancient acropolis of Corinth dating back to the 7th century BC. Ancient Corinth is nearby and is the ruined old city of Corinth. See my blog Corinth, Greece: Travel Guide for further information. The Corinth Canal 5.3. Tiryns and Mycenae The little visited archaeological site of Tiryns is only a 7 minute drive from Nafplio. From there you can drive a further 20 minutes to the famous archaeological site of Mycenae. See my blogs Tiryns, Greece: Travel Guide  and Mycenae, Greece: Travel Guide for further information. The Lion's Gate at Mycenae 6. My Other Blogs on Greece Monemvasia, Greece: Travel Guide Mycenae, Greece: Travel Guide Tiryns, Greece: Travel Guide Epidaurus, Greece: Travel Guide Corinth, Greece: Travel Guide Delphi, Greece: Travel Guide The Monasteries of Meteora: Travel Guide Naxos, Greece: Travel Guide Mystras, Greece: Travel Guide Tinos, Greece: Travel Guide Syros, Greece: Travel Guide Andros, Greece: Travel Guide North Macedonia to Greece - Week 4 Nafplio, Greece to the Peloponnese - Week 5 Peloponnese to the Greek Islands - Week 6 The Greek Islands - Week 7 The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8

Outer Wall of Tiryns Contents Introduction Opening Hours Tickets What to See My Other Blogs on Greece 1. Introduction I researched the history of Tiryns and there is a lot of conflicting information. It seems that the impressive fortifications were built in the 13th century BC to protect the palace complex. The palace was destroyed and only the ruins remain. Tiryns was one of the most important centres of the Mycenaean world. If you stay in Nafplio ( Nafplio: Travel Guide ) it is only a 7 minute drive to Tiryns. It is on the way to Mycenae ( Mycenae: Travel Guide ) so you can combine the 2 sites. Tiryns isn't visited by tour groups so there are very few visitors. Although the walls are very impressive there isn't much else to see. We visited on one of the 6 free admission days - see the section on tickets . It only takes about 30 minutes to see Tiryns' archaeological site. There is plenty of free parking and toilets before you enter the site. 2. Opening Hours at Tiryns Winter & Summer: 08:30-15.30 Good Friday: 12.00-17.00 Holy Saturday: 08:30-15:30 Closed on the following holidays: 1 January 25 March 1 May Easter Sunday 25 December 26 December 3. Tickets for Tiryns When we visited Tiryns in 2022 tickets only cost Eur 4 from April to October and Eur 2 from November to March. Unfortunately since then the price has dramatically increased to Eur 10! Admission is free for EU citizens up to the age of 25. From October 1 to 31 May a 50% reduction is granted to over 65's from EU countries. Documentary proof is required for these reductions Admission is free on the following days: 6 March 18 April 18 May The last weekend of September. 28 October Every first Sunday from November 1st to March 31st. 4. What to see at Tiryns From Tiryns' entrance there is an ancient ramp that was built wide enough for chariots. The remains of impressive fortified walls are on either side. The ramp leads to a large area with the remains of the palace. The remains are no higher than about 1 metre. From the palace you can descend to the other side of the site to admire the high fortified walls. You can return to the entrance along these walls. The Entrance Ramp Looking down to the Entrance Ramp The Remains of the Palace Outer Wall Outer Wall Outer Wall 5. My Other Blogs on Greece Monemvasia, Greece: Travel Guide Mycenae, Greece: Travel Guide Epidaurus, Greece: Travel Guide Nafplio, Greece: Travel Guide Corinth, Greece: Travel Guide Delphi, Greece: Travel Guide The Monasteries of Meteora: Travel Guide Naxos, Greece: Travel Guide Mystras, Greece: Travel Guide Tinos, Greece: Travel Guide Syros, Greece: Travel Guide Andros, Greece: Travel Guide North Macedonia to Greece - Week 4 Nafplio, Greece to the Peloponnese - Week 5 Peloponnese to the Greek Islands - Week 6 The Greek Islands - Week 7 The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8