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Contents
1. Introduction
I spent a very enjoyable 6 weeks in Ladakh during August and September 2024. I mainly went to trek in Sham Valley, Markha Valley and Zanskar. However, I took advantage of being in Leh and did a lot of sightseeing whilst there.
Leh is a very nice town and there are few hassles like in many parts of India. The people are friendly and welcoming and Leh hasn't been overwhelmed by traffic like in so many Asian towns. It helps that the main shopping street is pedestrianised.
Leh is a good base for day trips to many of Ladakh's ancient Buddhist monasteries. It is important to be selective as there are so many monasteries in the vicinity of Leh. I visited most of the most important monasteries and this blog covers them.
Trekking is another popular way to see Ladakh. The Markha Valley and Sham Valley treks are 2 short and easy treks near Leh. They can be done independently or you could join a group trek arranged by many of the travel agencies in Leh. See my blogs on trekking in Ladakh for information about these treks.
I didn't do the popular 2 or 3 day trip to the Nubra Valley and Pangong Lake. It is very scenic but also touristy.
2. Leh, Ladakh
2.1 Central area of Leh
The long pedestrianised shopping street called the Main Bazaar is the centre of Leh. At the northern end is the Jamia Masjid mosque. On the west side there is a Tibetan Refugee market. There are local markets south of the pedestrianised area and to the east a local shopping street runs parallel to it.
Leh Palace can be seen from the northern end of the Main Bazaar and the dilapidated old town is east of the mosque. It is worth wandering through the old town on the way up to, and down from, Leh Palace but there aren't many buildings of interest.
The Chokhang Vihara Temple was consecrated in 1980 and is in an area just north west of the Main Bazaar. It is worthwhile having a quick wander around this peaceful part of central Leh.
2.2 Leh Palace
Leh Palace looks spectacular from the Grand Bazaar and it is lit up at night. It's definitely worth visiting Leh Palace and the entry fee was only INR 300 (USD 4) in 2024 for foreigners.
The nine storey Leh Palace was constructed in 1630 and visitors enter on the fourth level. The Royal Shrine and a couple of rooms with exhibitions are on the fourth and fifth levels. Otherwise most of the rooms in the Leh Palace are empty. There are good views of Leh from the top floors.
2.3 Leh Old Town
2.4 Shanti Stupa
The white Shanti Stupa was built in 1991 on a hill about 100 metres high. It's a 10 minute walk past the Hotel Omasila in the north western part of central Leh. There are 566 steps from the road to the stupa and there is a cafe at the top.
Shanti Stupa is a popular spot at sunset as there are good views over Leh.
3. Stok & Spituk
I spent 6 hours visiting Stok and Spituk by taxi that cost INR 2,500 (USD 30). The first section of the journey from Leh to Choglamsar went through an unattractive urban sprawl but the Choglamsar to Stok road was scenic. I returned to Leh via Spituk and the scenery from Stok to Spituk was excellent. It made a nice outing.
3.1 Stok
The main places to see at Stok are the Palace, the Golden Buddha on the hill, the monastery and a heritage house. The village itself sprawls over several kilometres and is not worth walking around.
Stok Palace was built around 1820 and became the royal residence in 1834. There is a museum and temple included in the small admission charge of about INR 200. Part of the Palace is now a heritage hotel. Photography isn't allowed in the museum and temple.
The Golden Buddha is a couple of kilometres from the Palace. It's 22 metres high and was built in 2012. The Buddha is right above a modern monastery and the nearby shop has the key. There are excellent views from the Buddha. There is monastery nearby dating back to the 14th century. I didn't visit it but wish I had.
The Gyapthago Heritage Home is a few kilometres further on. I had a tour of the old house and a nice lunch for INR 500 (USD 6).
3.2 Spituk Monastery & Village
The impressive monastery at Spituk is built on a rocky outcrop and can be seen from several kilometres away. It is one of the oldest monasteries in Ladakh and dates back to the 11th century. There are about 4 chapels and chambers that can be entered but photography isn't allowed.
Spituk village is built on the steep rear side of the monastery. My taxi took me around to this side and I walked up through the old and atmospheric village. There is a long line of white chortens at the base of the village.
4. Monasteries at Shey, Thikse, Matho & Hemis
These famous monasteries are south east of Leh and can be visited as a long day trip from Leh.
4.1 Shey Palace
There is a 2 storey temple in Shey Palace which contains Ladakh's most famous statue of Buddha. It is large and very impressive. The entrance fee for Shey Palace is only INR 40 (USD 0.50).
There is a dilapidated fortress on the hill above the fortress. It's possible to clamber to the top from where there are good views. There are restaurants in the village just below Shey Palace.
4.2 Thikse Monastery
Thikse monastery dates back to the 15th century. It is one of the biggest and most impressive monasteries in Ladakh and shouldn't be missed. Photography is allowed in the prayer rooms unlike at several of the other monasteries. The entrance fee is INR 50 (USD 0.60).
4.3 Matho Monastery
Matho monastery dates back to the 15th century and photography in the interior is permitted. The entrance fee is INR 50 (USD 0.60).
4.4 Hemis Monastery
Hemis monastery dates back to the 17th century and is probably the most famous monastery in Ladakh. It houses around 500 monks and there are about 5 chambers that can be visited.
5. Likir, Alchi, Lamayuru & Kanji
It is about a 2.5 hour drive westwards from Leh to Lamayuru monastery which would make a long day trip if the monasteries at Likir and Alchi were visited on the way. It would be far more relaxing to spend the night at Lamayuru where there is plenty of accommodation. There are at least 2 decent hotels that have rooms with attached bathrooms.
The interesting and attractive Tibetan village of Kanji is only a one and a quarter hour drive from Lamayuru. There is a homestay in Kanji and the night could be spent there instead of at Lamayuru.
If you organise this trip yourself do ensure that you obtain a Protected Area Permit as you often need to show it at police road blocks. It only costs INR 600 (USD 7) and can be obtained quickly through most travel agencies in Leh. See my Markha Valley trek blog for further details.
On the road from Leh to Alchi there are a couple of quick pull overs:
The first one is Magnetic Hill where vehicles which have stopped appear to move uphill due to an optical illusion. In reality the road goes downhill.
The next one is Sangam viewpoint which is above the confluence of the Indus and Zanskar rivers.
5.1 Likir Monastery
Likir monastery was founded in the 11th century and there are now around 100 monks practising there. The monastery sits impressively on a hill that is about 5 kilometres off the Leh to Srinagar road.
There are 2 main chapels and a museum that can be visited. Behind the monastery there is a 25 metre high golden image of the Maitreya Buddha.
The entrance fee is only INR 50 (USD 0.60) and the opening hours are 08.00 to 13.00 and 14.00 to 18.00. Photography is allowed in the chapels but not in the museum.
5.2 Alchi Monastery
Alchi Monastery is one of the oldest in Ladakh and is different from most of the other monasteries. It doesn't have a spectacular setting and is very small. However, the monastery's 3 very small chapels were very atmospheric and impressive.
Alchi Monastery is open from 09.00 to 13.00 and from 14.00 to 18.00. At the entrance all cameras must be put in individual lockers.
I visited at midday and fortunately there were no other visitors in the small chapels. However, when I left Alchi just before the monastery reopened at 14.00 there were groups waiting to visit. The chapels wouldn't be so magical if there were too many other visitors.
The best restaurant in Alchi is the popular Alchi Kitchen run by women.
5.3 Lamayuru Monastery
Lamayuru monastery is one of the most impressive and largest monasteries in Ladakh. It is surrounded by a moonscape landscape and there are several viewpoints in the vicinity from which this moonscape can be fully appreciated.
It takes about 2 hours to explore the fascinating monastery complex and there are around 4 chapels that can be visited. Photography isn't allowed in most of the chapels.
5.4 Kanji
It is about a 1.5 hour drive from Lamayuru to the interesting and very scenic Tibetan village of Kanji where there is a homestay. The road to Kanji goes over the 4,108 metre high Fatu La which is the highest point on the Leh to Srinagar road.
Just before Kanji the road goes through a spectacular canyon. I walked through it and met up with my vehicle on the other side of the canyon.
6. Nubra Valley & Pangong Lake
The scenic drive to Nubra Valley and Pangong Lake is very popular. You can either arrange your own taxi or join one of the tours organised by the numerous travel agencies in Leh. When I was in Leh the reputable Ancient Tracks travel agency were advertising tours shown on the photo below.
I didn't do this trip as I didn't have enough time and I was going to see a lot of Ladakh's wonderful scenery during my 6 weeks trekking in Markha Valley, Zanskar and Sham Valley.
7. Taxis, Restaurants, Hotels & Laundry
7.1 Taxis
Taxis aren't usually hailed in the street. There are 2 main taxi stands in Leh, one is near the Main Bazaar and the other is by the bus station.
There is a taxi union in Leh and they set the rates to each destination in Ladakh. The 2022/23 rate sheet is on their website. The cost of a taxi from the airport to Leh was INR 550 (USD 7) in 2024.
7.2 Restaurants in Leh
There are a lot of good restaurants in Leh. I mainly ate at the following ones:
Most restaurants in Leh don't serve alcohol but Bon Appetit does.
7.3 Hotels in Leh
There are a lot of good looking hotels in Leh. I stayed at the Hotel Omasila which was one of the first hotels in Leh. The hotel is set in nice grounds and the rooms are spacious but need updating. The staff were very pleasant and helpful.
7.4 Hotels in Lamayuru
The Grand Moonland and the Dragon Hotel get good reviews. Both hotels have attached bathrooms. I think I stayed in the old Hotel Moonland which was fine. I had an attached bathroom which was more than I expected.
7.5 Homestay in Kanji
I camped at Kanji as it was the start of my Zanskar trek. I saw the Thankar Painter Homestay whilst wandering around the village.
7.6 Laundry
There are 2 laundries near the Hotel Omasila in Leh. They are both on the same side of the road as the hotel and one is before the hotel and the other one after it. Usually laundry handed in by 21.00 it will be ready for collection the following evening. The cost is very reasonable.
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